Glue suggestion?

[Dan Daniel]

So after reading over suggestions, seeing what is available in the US and is not going to require buying a gallon at atime, I am going to try JB Plastic Bonder. Two-part urethane for joining plastics and plastic to metal. Sold as an auto body panel adhesive among other things. Retains some flexibility.

Plastic Bonder Syringe - Black

PlasticBonder™is a quick-setting, two-part, urethane adhesive system that provides strong and lasting repairs and works on thermoset, carbon fiber composites, thermoplastics, coated metals, concrete & more.

www.jbweld.com

I will add a note after getting some in and trying it.

Again, thanks to everyone. The diversity of knowledge and experience here is very helpful.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Alan - there are all kinds of silicones. Cure times can be short. Entire categories don't contain acetic acid. But why be in a rush to put a camera into service anyway?

I've used moisture-cure urethanes to assemble some really heavy phenolic projects (plus some screw reinforcement). It's actually easier than gluing oily tropical hardwoods like in marine or special furniture projects. I was one of the first to receive test samples of Gorilla glue and then their competitors. Shelf life is a problem with both urethane glues and caulks;you want it reasonably fresh, and never from partially used bottles.

I forgot what I used on my last carbon fiber project, probably an epoxy.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Alan - there are all kinds of silicones. Cure times can be short. Entire categories don't contain acetic acid. But why be in a rush to put a camera into service anyway?

I've used moisture-cure urethanes to assemble some really heavy phenolic projects (plus some screw reinforcement). It's actually easier than gluing oily tropical hardwoods like in marine or special furniture projects. I was one of the first to receive test samples of Gorilla glue and then their competitors. Shelf life is a problem with both urethane glues and caulks;you want it reasonably fresh, and never from partially used bottles.

I forgot what I used on my last carbon fiber project, probably an epoxy.

The JB Plastic Bonder (not Plastic Welder, another JB product) is a two-part urethane. They specifically call out both metal and polycarbonate. I have not run into any mention of expansion. I'll remove paint from glue areas, and will scuff up the glue surfaces. I'll be painting everything with a matte paint, but it is helpful that it comes in black.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Sounds good. Polycarbonate (or poly-anything) is difficult to glue. Sanding is probably essential to give it a little more tooth. Always do a test sample first.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Quick follow-up. I got in JB Weld Plastic Bonder, (NOT Welder, different thing). Their product number 50139. Black, described as 'Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler.' 2 part urethane. 5 minute working, 6 minute set, 1 hour cure, it says. $9.99 at the local Tractor Supply.

MSDS https://www.manualshelf.com/manual/j-b-weld/50139/sds-english.html Part B starts at page 14

Black, dries glossy. Material remains flexible- mixed on an index card, the remainder can be bent and twisted without cracking, etc. No expansion like with a one-part (water cured) urethane.

Working well. Grabs both polycarbonate and metal very well, holds up to a decent amount of movement and pressure.

Appears to take a matte paint to kill the gloss (Testors model paint). I doubt the paint would really stick with constant rubbing or such, but I didn't sand the glue surface before wiping on some paint.

Given my needs- very small batches, no serious pressure or such, just a safety fill- this will work well for me. Looks like I'd need to buy some serious industrial quantities to get better, and I am not actually attaching body panels or such to justify large quantities.

Thanks again for all the recommendations and suggestions.