Getting started with pinhold photography

[Ces1um]

I've been considering getting a pinhole camera since I first saw the Ondu cameras on kickstarter. They got me looking at pinhole photos, pinhole cameras, tripods, etc....

I think I'm about ready to take the plunge now.

I know you can make your own pinhole camera out of just about anything but I think I'd like a nice camera. I'm considering 4x5 format. I know there's a lot of love out there for the zero image cameras. I also saw Ilford has an ABS 4x5 camera kit. I've also seen that b&h has a lot of pinholes for sale in a variety of exotic woods, along with some basic models. Some have shutter release cables, others don't.

What features do you feel are beneficial for pinhole photography? Light weight? Shutter release adapters? I'm interested in your thoughts.

 

[tezzasmall]

As long as all of mine, whether homemade or bought, have a tripod screw and at least a flap for operating the 'shutter', along with a good bit of sunshine, then I'm sorted!

Oh yes, and a yellow filter to increase the contrast and tones has helped since I started using it lately.

Terry S

 

[Ces1um]

As long as all of mine, whether homemade or bought, have a tripod screw and at least a flap for operating the 'shutter', along with a good bit of sunshine, then I'm sorted!

Oh yes, and a yellow filter to increase the contrast and tones has helped since I started using it lately.

Terry S

So I understand that the zero image cameras have a model that accepts filters- except it isn't available for the 4x5 format. Do you hold or tape the filter to the front of your camera? They do have a square 120 format version that allows for filters to be threaded on though but I was hoping to move into 4x5.

 

[dasBlute]

laser drilled pinholes are nice, yellow filters as well, I've taped one to the front of my rig.

a wooden board with velcro makes a nice platform for mounting almost any camera on a tripod [thanks Joe Van Cleave]

you can build a foam-core pinhole for cheap.

I took this design and scaled it up for 8x10: http://pinhole.stanford.edu/foamcore.html
mine is 0.4mm pinhole, ~ 150mm focal length, something like f/375,
For exposure, I use 9 stops over f/16, about 1 min in full sun

some results from my $7 8x10 camera

 

[Patrick Robert James]

You are going to have to put it on a tripod, so lightweight isn't much of an attribute. If I was buying one, I would probably get the AuPremierePlan/RealitySoSubtle one. The three pinholes on the front is a great idea if you shoot near buildings. They are the equivalent of front rise on a view camera.

You should put some thought into what focal length you want as well. Most pinhole cameras tend to be wide angle but a few of them aren't.

 

[Ces1um]

You are going to have to put it on a tripod, so lightweight isn't much of an attribute. If I was buying one, I would probably get the AuPremierePlan/RealitySoSubtle one. The three pinholes on the front is a great idea if you shoot near buildings. They are the equivalent of front rise on a view camera.

You should put some thought into what focal length you want as well. Most pinhole cameras tend to be wide angle but a few of them aren't.

The way I foresee me using this is for landscape photography mostly. Mostly wide open sweeping vistas. I think I'd be quite happy with anything wide angle. Usually I use photographic opportunities as an excuse to go for a decent hike. That's why I was thinking a lightweight body might be beneficial because I'm carrying everything for 4-5 km in and then back out. I have a lightweight tripod that I anchor in using a ground spike and then cinching down with a rope or tie down so I'm already set there. I've seen those realitysosubtle cameras. They look very interesting. I'll give them some thought. I think I do want to stick with 4x5 format though. I'm trying to reduce the number of photographs I take down to a few very well done photos. I find even with 24 or 36 exposures I just shoot what I want, and then end up with some photos that while are ok, aren't anything worthwhile keeping/printing/exhibiting. I figure having two film holders good for 4 photos will force me to wait for the light, or to scout out scenes better. Is this wishful thinking on my part?

 

[M Carter]

I converted an old Agfa Isolette to a pinhole and designed it for very wide angle - it's about 40mm at 6x6. Not a 4x5 neg, but I get a nice film transport and an actual shutter with a cable release.

Isolette shutters with the lenses removed make nice pinhole shutters - you can usually find a trashed Isolette for a few bucks.

 

[MattKing]

The framing guides on my Noons 6x12 variable format pinhole camera are great.
As is the ability to change the format when I change the film.

 

[Jim Jones]

Press cameras may not be as elegant as some of today's pinhole cameras, but they are versatile and can be fairly inexpensive. Most have tripod sockets for both horizontal and vertical formats. The tripod socket is important unless you use something like dasBlute showed in post #4. With a press camera, different pinholes can be mounted on different lens boards for different focal lengths. Another way of accomplishing this is to mount a filter ring with the glass removed on the camera. Pinholes can be mounted on a disc of opaque material and retained with another glassless filter ring. Filters can also be added as desired. I've used a piece of opaque tape for the shutter. The dark slide is removed and held over the tape. The tape is removed. After any vibration has subsided, the dark slide is moved away for the exposure. It can also be removed in an upper direction to darken the sky. The process is done in reverse to complete the exposure.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

The way I foresee me using this is for landscape photography mostly. Mostly wide open sweeping vistas. I think I'd be quite happy with anything wide angle. Usually I use photographic opportunities as an excuse to go for a decent hike. That's why I was thinking a lightweight body might be beneficial because I'm carrying everything for 4-5 km in and then back out. I have a lightweight tripod that I anchor in using a ground spike and then cinching down with a rope or tie down so I'm already set there. I've seen those realitysosubtle cameras. They look very interesting. I'll give them some thought. I think I do want to stick with 4x5 format though. I'm trying to reduce the number of photographs I take down to a few very well done photos. I find even with 24 or 36 exposures I just shoot what I want, and then end up with some photos that while are ok, aren't anything worthwhile keeping/printing/exhibiting. I figure having two film holders good for 4 photos will force me to wait for the light, or to scout out scenes better. Is this wishful thinking on my part?

No it isn't wishful thinking. Putting restrictions on yourself will make you a better photographer since you will have to look at what you are doing before you do it. You will miss images, but you will see some that you would never have seen. I'll occasionally go out the door with only a few shots left on a roll so I limit myself to that (kinda too lazy to take another roll). It makes me really see. It is a good exercise.

The panoramic pinhole images I have in the gallery here rely on that limitation. I usually only make one or two images per trip to the location since they take minutes to do each one. I try to make them count. I spend a lot more time contemplating the variables than I normally would since it takes three or four hour roundtrips to make the six shots on a roll of film. No pressure! Lol.

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

What features do you feel are beneficial for pinhole photography? Light weight? Shutter release adapters? I'm interested in your thoughts.

A shutter release is definitely preferable to a fiddly door that must be used during the normally long exposures. Also a spirit level; more than one axis is ideal, but one is serviceable. Framing guides appear on some ZI pinhole cameras, otherwise you can DIY.

You've probably seen the shutter release assemblies as standard or optioned on a great many of the Zero Image pinhole cameras (as a long time user, I describe them as the best out there).

Be aware that adding a filter to the ZI pinholes, though seemingly a creative and useful feature, can dramatically increase exposure times, and increase the effects of reciprocity. You are using the most basic of cameras that, in their time, did not use filters. Personally that's how I keep it. The resulting images are the real deal, free of filters and effects.

I have two ZI 6x9 multiformat pinholes (2008 vintage, fully optioned); one is set to 6x9, the other 6x6. From what I have seen the "panoramic" models suffer a dramatic light fall-off, much more so if they are fitted with Zone plates rather than the pinhole. Of the larger (4x5) format, problems have been reported with weakening of the elastic toggles used to secure the film holders and extenders. At one stage it is believed Mr. Au was going to replace these with brass clips but I have seen no such thing to date.

 

[awty]

The most important thing you need is imagination. Need to imagine the picture in your head and then try to set the box up to make that picture.
Yellow, orange and red filters will help depending on the way you want the picture to look.
The app titled "Reciprocity " will give you times once you work out the initial time. I like to use a spot meter.
Something that will hold the camera still if there is wind.

 

[NedL]

... The resulting images are the real deal, free of filters and effects....

well said.

 

[tezzasmall]

So I understand that the zero image cameras have a model that accepts filters- except it isn't available for the 4x5 format. Do you hold or tape the filter to the front of your camera? They do have a square 120 format version that allows for filters to be threaded on though but I was hoping to move into 4x5.

Personally, I blu tack or masking tape filters to the front of the camera.

I should also have said, I was referring to using photo paper for the negative when I mentioned using a yellow filter, although of course you could use that as well as orange and red, if you decide to use film.

Terry S

 

[Ces1um]

Be aware that adding a filter to the ZI pinholes, though seemingly a creative and useful feature, can dramatically increase exposure times, and increase the effects of reciprocity. You are using the most basic of cameras that, in their time, did not use filters. Personally that's how I keep it. The resulting images are the real deal, free of filters and effects.

Of the larger (4x5) format, problems have been reported with weakening of the elastic toggles used to secure the film holders and extenders. At one stage it is believed Mr. Au was going to replace these with brass clips but I have seen no such thing to date.

I've seen a few pinholes that have used elastics/magnets/etc to secure the film holders and extenders. I worried about how well they would work. I've been looking at ilford's 4x5 pinhole. It seems quite durable and well built. I just wish it wasn't so remarkably expensive for what is essentially three pieces of molded plastic.

I've used filters regularly in my 35mm photography and I like the contrast the red filter provides. That being said, I understand direct positive photo paper is also very high contrast. Maybe I might like it's results. If all else fails I can just develop the film using less dilution or higher temperatures to get the effect when I want it. It's looking like Ilford's pinhole may be what I'm after.

 

[jeffreyg]

I have the Ilford 4x5 pinhole camera with both of the cones. I don't recall using a filter but if I use one I would just hold or tape it in place. No shutter just place the "lens"cap over the pinhole or replace the dark slide back in the film holder. A second or two has never made a difference with the long exposures. Most of the prints I make from those negatives are platinum/palladium and are quite nice maintaining the old technology all the way.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[Ces1um]

I've seen a few pinholes that have used elastics/magnets/etc to secure the film holders and extenders. I worried about how well they would work. I've been looking at ilford's 4x5 pinhole. It seems quite durable and well built. I just wish it wasn't so remarkably expensive for what is essentially three pieces of molded plastic.

I've used filters regularly in my 35mm photography and I like the contrast the red filter provides. That being said, I understand direct positive photo paper is also very high contrast. Maybe I might like it's results. If all else fails I can just develop the film using less dilution or higher temperatures to get the effect when I want it. It's looking like Ilford's pinhole may be what I'm after.

I'm curious about the removal of the lens cap causing a blurry photo when using a shorter exposure time. Surely one could dislodge the cap, holding it still slightly in front of the pinhole and then slide the cap away?

 

[MattKing]

I'm curious about the removal of the lens cap causing a blurry photo when using a shorter exposure time. Surely one could dislodge the cap, holding it still slightly in front of the pinhole and then slide the cap away?

That is what black baseball caps are for!
(cover pinhole and lenscap with hat, remove lenscap, pull hat away for length of exposure then return hat to front to shield pinhole, replace lenscap, remove hat.)

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I've been considering getting a pinhole camera since I first saw the Ondu cameras on kickstarter. They got me looking at pinhole photos, pinhole cameras, tripods, etc....

I think I'm about ready to take the plunge now.

I know you can make your own pinhole camera out of just about anything but I think I'd like a nice camera. I'm considering 4x5 format. I know there's a lot of love out there for the zero image cameras. I also saw Ilford has an ABS 4x5 camera kit. I've also seen that b&h has a lot of pinholes for sale in a variety of exotic woods, along with some basic models. Some have shutter release cables, others don't.

What features do you feel are beneficial for pinhole photography? Light weight? Shutter release adapters? I'm interested in your thoughts.

most important is to make it as large as practical;an8x10 or an11x14 pinhole image can be as sharp as an enlargement even with a paper negative for which you want a yellow filter to control the contrasts shutter release is a big help but not a must.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I recently got a Vermeer 6x18 pinhole with the curved film plane. It does distort (a little) when straight objects go through the middle of the frame at an angle to the pinhole plane, but nothing ridiculous. I also have a Travelwide 4x5 with the 65mm pinhole. The things I would want most in a pinhole are levels (especially on the 6x18 where an un-level horizon is glaringly obvious), and some kind of framing indicator to help with vertical/horizontal composition. In the case of my Travelwide, an external finder that mounts on a hot shoe works just fine, but with the Vermeer, it wouldn't work well because of the extreme aspect ratio. Some kind of "shutter" for the camera is also very helpful, as a lens cap type arrangement is prone to getting lost. Your exposures are so long that vibration from the shutter being opened and closed are unlikely to affect image sharpness and focus.

Light weight is one of the perks of a pinhole - other than the "shutter", there's virtually nothing to them beyond being a light-tight box.

 

[awty]

I recently got a Vermeer 6x18 pinhole with the curved film plane. It does distort (a little) when straight objects go through the middle of the frame at an angle to the pinhole plane, but nothing ridiculous. I also have a Travelwide 4x5 with the 65mm pinhole. The things I would want most in a pinhole are levels (especially on the 6x18 where an un-level horizon is glaringly obvious), and some kind of framing indicator to help with vertical/horizontal composition. In the case of my Travelwide, an external finder that mounts on a hot shoe works just fine, but with the Vermeer, it wouldn't work well because of the extreme aspect ratio. Some kind of "shutter" for the camera is also very helpful, as a lens cap type arrangement is prone to getting lost. Your exposures are so long that vibration from the shutter being opened and closed are unlikely to affect image sharpness and focus.

Light weight is one of the perks of a pinhole - other than the "shutter", there's virtually nothing to them beyond being a light-tight box.

My Vermeer just has a slide shutter, think you could retro fit something similar. Mine also takes 52mm filters.
You can buy levels for a few bucks.
You can make a visual aid with some card board or similar, just need to know the image angle and tape up the pieces to the angle. I just use my hands and arms at roughly 100 degrees......looks a bit silly, but everything pinholes is a bit weird to the public. One lady, when I was trying to explain what I was doing, asked me if there was a camera inside the box. I said the box was the camera, then I opened it (took the sheet film holder off the back) to show it was empty she could not understand it to be a camera.

 

[NedL]

... I just use my hands and arms at roughly 100 degrees......looks a bit silly, but everything pinholes is a bit weird to the public....

I do that all the time, don't even think about it anymore. Sometimes when I see something that might be a good photograph I do it even when I don't have a camera... just to picture in mind's eye what the pinhole photo would look like! Bunch of nutcases we are!

 

[Theo Sulphate]

A friend of mine makes 4x5 (Zero Image) and 8x10 pinhole images. Compared to my own 6x6cm images, his images seem to be sharper and have less of the traditional soft pinhole effect. Those made with the 8x10, many people might think that a slightly soft-focus lens was being used - it's just not apparent they were made with a pinhole camera. For that reason, I prefer the effects produced by smaller formats.

 

[awty]

A friend of mine makes 4x5 (Zero Image) and 8x10 pinhole images. Compared to my own 6x6cm images, his images seem to be sharper and have less of the traditional soft pinhole effect. Those made with the 8x10, many people might think that a slightly soft-focus lens was being used - it's just not apparent they were made with a pinhole camera. For that reason, I prefer the effects produced by smaller formats.

Distortion is more to do with the hole size, focal length and if the negative is flat or curved.
I can get a distortion free 35mm image simply by having a short focal length and a hole to suite. The larger format are capable of a sharper less grainy image, but I think thats just cause they are a bigger surface area. If you cut out a 35mm square on a larger format neg the grain would be the same...not that ive tried.
My 8x10 has plenty of distortion and I love that. Its best to make or get a camera that you like the image of, or better still get several.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

My Vermeer just has a slide shutter, think you could retro fit something similar. Mine also takes 52mm filters.
You can buy levels for a few bucks.
You can make a visual aid with some card board or similar, just need to know the image angle and tape up the pieces to the angle. I just use my hands and arms at roughly 100 degrees......looks a bit silly, but everything pinholes is a bit weird to the public. One lady, when I was trying to explain what I was doing, asked me if there was a camera inside the box. I said the box was the camera, then I opened it (took the sheet film holder off the back) to show it was empty she could not understand it to be a camera.

I have bought levels (they arrived last night) and attached them (pics will be forthcoming - I'm going out shooting with it after work). I just think they should be included, given how cheap they are. It's not like they fundamentally alter the cost of the camera. The horizontal composition is a bit easier to visualize without a guide, but the vertical is the real challenge.