Getting ready for my first contact prints

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Amund

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Okay, I have my 8x10 2D, a couple of filmholders on the way.
Now I need a contact printing frame and film. Any suggestions for what to get?
As the JandC Pro 100 is the most economical film to start with, I`d like some input how this film is for that task. I`ll develop in Pyrocat HD mostly.
I have some Forte Polywarmtone/Neutol WA to start with.
 

noseoil

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Efke 100, a sheet of 1/8" gasket material and a sheet of 3/16" glass. tim
 

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I have been using the J and C 200 for a few years now, and VERY pleased with the results. I was developing in HC-110 thought, so I could not tell you how it is with Pyro. One problem-J and C is currently out of stock on the their films, and who knows how long it will be till it comes in.

I have heard, and seen, many great things come from Ekfe film with using Pyro developer, so I recently changed to that. Althought the film is more expensive, I truly believe that you get what you pay for.
 

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Sorry, I saw you said J and C 100. I am not familar with that film or how well it is, I only have experience with the J and C 200, which is a totally different film.

I could not recommend something I have not used.
 

Ole

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Amund,

once you add on the shipping and moms and stuff, fotoimport.no gets really chep.
 
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Amund

Amund

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Update: I`ve ordered some 8x10 JandC Pro 100(Fotoimport.no doesn`t have it Ole) and a Photographer`s Formulary 8x10 contact printing frame.
 

Ole

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blix@broadpark.no said:
Update: I`ve ordered some 8x10 JandC Pro 100(Fotoimport.no doesn`t have it Ole) and a Photographer`s Formulary 8x10 contact printing frame.

No, but Fotoimport has EFKE PL100.
 
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Amund

Amund

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Ole said:
No, but Fotoimport has EFKE PL100.

Yes I know, but I feel more comfortable with a film I`m already used to..
And of course, it beeing half the price of Efke helps when first trying 8x10..
Mistakes quadruple in price from now on :smile:
 
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Amund

Amund

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Thanks Jay. I have used the Pro 100 a lot in 120 and 4x5 so I`m familiar with it, I really like it as reminds me of APX 100.. Haven`t seen any coating defects yet om my 4x5`s.
 

Peter Schrager

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J+C 100

JDEF-I already tried this film and sold the rest off cheap as I was getting some weird streaking. But-I am totally in the belief that this has the potential for unequaled photos. I'm going to order some more but ANY tips in developing this are welcome. I already gave up stop bath on all my films in all developers so no more pinholes. I also read somewhere to keep the temp at around 68 degrees.
Thanks, Peter
Sorry-didn't mean to hijack the thread or anything-just believe this is worth pursuing and maybe some others would like to try it AGAIN!!
 
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Amund

Amund

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I just hung two 4x5 sheets to dry, developed in Rodinal 1:50 11min with J&C developing tubes, they look great to me. Used regular acid stopbath and Agfa Agefix fixer. No pinholes, I have never experienced that with this film(used about 50 sheets)
Had great results with XTOL(6mins in tubes)Pyrocat HD stand development too.
I usually develop at 68f
 

Peter Schrager

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Thank you

Blix-is the xtol straight?? Thanks for the info but I did get pinholes; going to try this film again but J+C is out right now
Best, Peter
 
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Amund

Amund

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Yep, straight XTOL.
 

Peter Schrager

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Reply

JDEF- I do believe that this film is THE only one that even comes close to Apx100. Blix says no pinholes so it must be the temp because I was doing 75 degrees which is my standard for most of my developing. Meantime I'll have to wait for the resupply at J+C.
Jay-just want to thank you for all those newfangled dev.;one day when I have some time I'm going to whip up some of those boys!!! So many developers;and so little time!
Best, Peter
 

Donald Qualls

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I've shot enough of the Pro 100 in 120 to start to say something about defect frequency -- I've seen defects on 2 of the first dozen rolls I've processed and scanned; in one, they affected more than on 6x9 frame.

Doesn't seem all that bad for the price, just remember to shoot two for anything important, avoid process temperatures above 68 F, and use water rinse rather than acid stop bath. Certainly does produce nice images...
 
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