getting my first Leica..pls help me...

[joe7]

I’m interested in getting my first ever leica,most possibly M6.but I’m really not sure which version of M6 is better and suits my need.i shoot street photography,travel photo and most of the photo is taken at night.

1)Which one is more robust between non TTL(Classic) and TTL version?because I’m planning to carry this camera everyday on a small bag as my main camera. FYI,my job needs me to travel a lots, and it’s is inconvenient for me to carry my SLR, which I believe quite big and a bit loud.

2)i’ve read somewhere on the internet saying that M6 Classic (non TTL) gearing is made from brass,compared to the newer TTL version which is made form stainless steel. Is it true?

3)Is there any difference between the M6 that is made by Leica and Leitz?

4)I would like to use 35mm lens on my RF,what is finder magnification that is suitable for me?0.85 or 0.72?

Thanks in advance for any of your advice..

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

Hi,

Unless you really need TTL flash metering, get the M6 classic: It's cheaper.
The only other difference (and possible advantage) of the TTL IFAIK is that the shutter speed dial turns the "right" way according to the metering arrows.

Steel gears were used in all Ms from the M4-2 on...

No difference between Leica, Leitz, Canada, Wetzlar or Solms (though some earlier - before the the M6 - cameras assembled in Wetzlar are said to have reached the absolute peak of assembly quality).

=> 0.72
0.85 if you use a 50mm or longer and you use longer lenses a lot.

Have fun!

 

[budrichard]

Unless you require TTL flash, I suggest that disregard all the differences between an M6 and M6TTL and purchase an M6 based the condition of the actual camera/price and not real or percieved differences.
If you purchase a nice M6, you will be happy no matter which Model.-Dick

 

[Ronald Moravec]

Later ones had improved meter circuits and improved light seals around the shutter.

Early ones took the Leica brass film cassettes IXMOO. Sometime in the run before the TTL model the base would not open the brass cassette anymore.

Get the last version of the 50 2.8 if you want a nice small collapsable 50, version IV 35 2.0 if a 35, 90 4.0 collapsible current/last for a short 90. This fits into a Domke FXb, 3x6x9 . My go to kit.

 

[Bateleur]

Some good advise already, but here's another plug for the M6 classic, I use this body with a 35mm lens almost exclusively. I find the .72 finder ideal as in the event of switching to a wider lens (25mm) I can still use the viewfinder (just), but the 35mm frame lines sit very comfortably in the center of the frame with just enough surrounding to retain awareness of the total environment. At the moment there is a wealth of second hand models available, shop around on the internet.

 

[Xmas]

Get the last version of the 50 2.8 if you want a nice small collapsable 50, version IV 35 2.0 if a 35, 90 4.0 collapsible current/last for a short 90. This fits into a Domke FXb, 3x6x9 . My go to kit.

If you want small and light the CV 35mm f/2.5 or CV f/2.5 are also cheap, and don't need additional lens hoods. The type IV 35mm summicron has a cult boketh following (expensive) but needs its plastic hood.

But you need to check the ergonomics as your hand size may not fit with the diminutive lens controls, of any of these.

Noel

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

The type IV 35mm summicron has a cult boketh following (expensive) but needs its plastic hood.

My 35mm Summicron IV has a very practical and stable vented metal hood.
I simply leave it on all the time.