Getting longer exposure times while printing.

[BenKrohn]

I've been using a Besseler 23Ciii at school for the while now. Most of my exposures have been under ten seconds. I want to experiment with dodging and burning more but these times make it difficult. I mostly use 35mm negatives with a Nikon 50mm lens but occasionally print from MF with a 75 or 80mm. I set my lamphouse bellows correctly and the bulb is the correct wattage. We've been doing contrast control while processing by adding 20% time in D-76 and two developer baths of Dektol when printing, 1:12 or 1:20 followed by 1:2. I'm very satisfied with my prints and only really like fiber(multigrade), i just want to go further. So what's next contrast filters? Split grade? toning for highlights? all of the above.

 

[BenKrohn]

I guess I should have been in the enlarging section. Maybe a moderator can move it?

 

[RobC]

for longer print exposure times you can use a smaller lens aperture or you can use neutral density filters.
The following Lee ND Lighting filters work well in enlargers with a filter drawer which is above the negative. These particular ones shouldn't be used below the negative becasue they aren't of optical quality. The 298 ND gives half a stop reduction but you can layer several to get to the print time you want. They are very cheap and from a sheet you can cut out several to the size you need.

http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/colour-details.html#298

http://www.stage-electrics.co.uk/sh...ction---200-series/product.aspx?code=509-9227

 

[BenKrohn]

Thanks. I think I actually have some of those that I got in a bundle of stuff. I thought they were for studio lighting. Thanks.

 

[RobC]

they are for studio lighting but there's nothing stopping you from using them in an enlarger above the negative. ND is ND whereever it's used. If the ones you have aren't labeled with filter factor then you'll just have to see what they give. The Lee ones come in several filter factors but the 0.15 ones give you the most control by using several layers to taste.

 

[removed account4]

hi ben
the sky is the limit
there are lots of threads here on
split toning: site:apug.org "split toning"
you can read about split grade exposure
on les mclean's site http://www.lesmcleanphotography.com
to get longer exposure times i guess you can
close your lens down, but depending on the lens and
and the size of your enlargements some say your prints might
suffer ( refraction ? ) so you might have to test that for yourself to see if
the results are what you like.
you might also look through ansel adam's "the negative" if you can get your hands on it
i think there is a section on intensification. ive never done it, im not a toner kind of person
but unless i am wrong, you can intensify your negatives to make them a bit more "dense" which
will in turn increase your exposure time.
i'd try stopping down first, that is reversible ( ND filters as suggested above too )
i don't think toner intensification is reversable, so if you screw-up your negatives are scewed up too...

another option you might like is to look into the techniques of william mortenson
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/blog/?p=121
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

careful, having fun can be addictive

good luck !
john

 

[Bill Burk]

I use an ND 0.6 No. 96 Wratten Gelatin filter, just picked up a replacement for my old one because it's seen so much use.

I use an Omega DII and whenever I need more time, I just drop the filter on top of the lens in the lens cone well.

I got mine from Dan Quan, he might still have the ND 0.7 No. 96 - I think you should get it - hey only ten bucks! Dan was great to work with.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[paul ron]

i buy nd filter in sheets at B&H n cut to fit the filter draw above my negative. you can stack them to make anything you may need.

 

[BenKrohn]

Thanks for all these suggestions and links, now I've got reading material for the next couple weeks. I pretty much keep my lens at the smallest aperture except when I forget to stop down after focusing ND filters sound like a great place to start.

 

[ac12]

Also make sure that you have the smallest wattage enlarger lamp in the enlarger. My Durst came with a 150w, which I soon changed to a 75w, but I wanted it dimmer yet, but could not find an enlarger lamp smaller than 75w.

 

[amellice]

if you're using color head, just add the 3 filters with the same amount which effectively adding neutral density and should increase your exposure time

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I'm using cheap dimmer from home depot. Probably cost less than ND filter. It is also adjustable.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Dimmers may be a problem if you are using variable contrast papers. As you drop the voltage the color temperature of the light shifts more to longer wavelengths like yellow. Dimmers are fine with graded papers.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I have printed on RC MG, no problems so far, but will keep it mind.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

You can also use a polarizer if you have one laying around.