I've also done dozens of prints this way and it does not consistently/effectively remove the curl from most prints, especially the waviness along the edges remains, and on prints larger than around 5x7". It may depend a bit on the paper used and how it was cut (paper has a 'direction' and it matters here). The clothes iron approach works to an extent, but it's not super effective, overall.Believe me it does work and I must have done dozens of prints this way with no damage what so ever.
I do it like this:
Dry face up on drying screen.
Flatten in heated dry mounting press for several minute, face up, covered with release paper.
Avoiding edge ripple requires that the print be well surrounded on all sides by the release paper and press platen surface, and that the temperature be sufficiently high. I use something in the range of 225-250F.
Yes. I always use release paper in my press too!
I should mention that, when doing this, the back of print is resting on a piece of mat board on the press, not the press' rubber pad.
I've also done dozens of prints this way and it does not consistently/effectively remove the curl from most prints, especially the waviness along the edges remains, and on prints larger than around 5x7". It may depend a bit on the paper used and how it was cut (paper has a 'direction' and it matters here). The clothes iron approach works to an extent, but it's not super effective, overall.
I understand that, but most of the time I want a print to be flat also if it's not mounted or glued to anything. This is possible in a number of ways, and a clothes iron gets you there to a certain level, but not perfectly so.I agree to a point, but when I used FB paper I also used a heated dry mounting press and the odd wavy edge didn't matter one iota. The shellac tissue sorted that out when it was stuck down.
Taping to a rigid support and then allow it to dry will make FB absolutely perfectly flat. Proper use of a heat press can also accomplish this, but technique/procedure matters. Ferrotyping will also work, but of course affects the surface sheen which may or may not be desirable, and there's of course the technique issue that results in many failures until you figure something out that works.Unfortunately it is the nature of the beast (FB) paper that it will be next to impossible to get it to dry completely flat unless some sort of heat such as a heated drying/glazing bed is used.
Read from here: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...or-flattening-fibre-prints.68518/post-2868433Anyone used a T shirt heated on design press?
I understand that, but most of the time I want a print to be flat also if it's not mounted or glued to anything. This is possible in a number of ways, and a clothes iron gets you there to a certain level, but not perfectly so.
Taping to a rigid support and then allow it to dry will make FB absolutely perfectly flat. Proper use of a heat press can also accomplish this, but technique/procedure matters. Ferrotyping will also work, but of course affects the surface sheen which may or may not be desirable, and there's of course the technique issue that results in many failures until you figure something out that works.
I understand that, but most of the time I want a print to be flat also if it's not mounted or glued to anything. This is possible in a number of ways, and a clothes iron gets you there to a certain level, but not perfectly so.
I have one of the Salthill dryers, works like a champ!A few years ago Salthill (remember them?) sold a good print dryer that I cloned.
It works better than anyting else that I have tried in the last 60 years of makin' fotos...
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?