Full Plate Korona camera: a few questions...

[Kino]

Hey all,

I am considering purchasing a Krona Full Plate camera kit, but have a few questions maybe someone more familiar with large format vintage cameras can answer..

As you can see in the photos, it's complete except for the lens and it sports a Packard shutter. Of course, the pneumatic bulb is petrified from being stored forever and the bellows are quite "crackly".

Since it is not mine yet, I did not extend the bellows beyond a few inches but they certainly are dry and might be beyond salvage.

The kit comes with 2 x full plate film holders and 3 x full plate holders with 4x5 film sheaths glued to the back of the divider of the film holder. Was this a common practice or is this a home-brew solution to using smaller formats?

The ground glass has 3 etched sizes on the glass. I didn't have time to measure them, but assume the outer one is 5x7, the next 4x5 and beyond that I am unsure; 3.25 x 4.25?

I would be interested in shooting 5x7 with this camera, as full plate is harder to come by and probably not worth the added expense to me. How would I go about finding 5x7 film holders for this beastie if I should consummate the purchase?

The packard shutter appears to be functional except for the rock-hard pneumatic bulb. I'd probably save that for the chance of shooting tin types or similar, but would probably make a another lens board for whatever lens I would purchase. Which brings me to period correct, but affordable lenses for this camera.

Suggestions for a vintage convertible lens that would cover full plate to 4x5?

Tell me your thoughts...

 

[Dan Fromm]

Field View Cameras Catalogs Gundman & Manhattan Optical Co.s

 

[awty]

You can use 5x7 insert film holders like the 4x5. This is common.
It wouldn't be hard to convert to take proper 5x7 film holders if you have wood working skills.
Bellows can be expensive to replace, so factor that in the price.
Shutter probably needs servicing.
It may be better to buy a working 5x7 than pay someone to alter this one.
It looks similar to my Kodak Specialist view camera, which is half plate, but takes 5x7 film holders.

 

[awty]

Also be aware, people will sell halfplate film holders thinking they are 5x7. Half plate is smaller.

 

[nosmok]

Don't discount the pleasures of whole plate! It's a wonderful format, it's almost as much bigger than 5x7 as 5x7 is to 4x5, but the camera/lens weight and handling feels about the same as 5x7. With the Ilford Large Format order window for this year just closed, you might be able to shake a box or two loose from somebody somewhere who ordered it and can't use it. Having said that, if all those holders are kludged up like the ones you showed and the bellows is shot to hell (I've had stiff bellows that were still light tight at shorter extensions), this may not be the perfect whole plate kit.

 

[nosmok]

PS: does it have any lens boards to go in front of that Packard? Ebay vendor zbima can make just about any lens board well, but that would be one more layer of hassle and cash.

 

[Kino]

Thank you everyone for your responses; it gives me some additional information to consider. The seller may have additional accessories (he's checking), but is not in any hurry to part with the camera, so it may be a while for an update.

 

[Tel]

I've got a full set of Koronas: an 8x10, a couple of 5x7s and several 4x5s. I like them a lot--the construction and finish are very good and they're generally lighter than their Eastman equivalents. I had one full plate camera (not a Gundlach) that I was intending to convert, but never did. I have some decent woodworking skills and some very crude metalworking skills but I was too busy shooting with other cameras to convert that full-plate one. My plan was to keep the full plate back intact and build a new 5x7 back for it but I just never got around to doing that. (I even bought a chunk of mahogany....) So if you have confidence in your woodworking skills (and a good table saw, router table, etc.) you might have some fun adapting the camera to a "modern" format.

Can't tell from the pictures what the bellows look like. Chances are they're brittle and maybe full of holes. A new well-made set will set you back about $200. If you plan to shoot a lot with this camera, you may want to upgrade the lens too. (Edit: just took a second look at your post and see this is on your agenda already.) Can't help with ideas for period-correct lenses; I like my Koronas for their ease-of-shooting qualities and have only ever used modern lenses on them.

 

[Kino]

I've got a full set of Koronas: an 8x10, a couple of 5x7s and several 4x5s. I like them a lot--the construction and finish are very good and they're generally lighter than their Eastman equivalents. I had one full plate camera (not a Gundlach) that I was intending to convert, but never did. I have some decent woodworking skills and some very crude metalworking skills but I was too busy shooting with other cameras to convert that full-plate one. My plan was to keep the full plate back intact and build a new 5x7 back for it but I just never got around to doing that. (I even bought a chunk of mahogany....) So if you have confidence in your woodworking skills (and a good table saw, router table, etc.) you might have some fun adapting the camera to a "modern" format.

Can't tell from the pictures what the bellows look like. Chances are they're brittle and maybe full of holes. A new well-made set will set you back about $200. If you plan to shoot a lot with this camera, you may want to upgrade the lens too. (Edit: just took a second look at your post and see this is on your agenda already.) Can't help with ideas for period-correct lenses; I like my Koronas for their ease-of-shooting qualities and have only ever used modern lenses on them.

Thanks for that information, Tel!

I have reasonable woodworking skills, so I may attempt a 5x7 back, but bad, intrusive thoughts of making a 7x17 or other larger back also dance around in my head. All the while, I don't even own the camera yet!

 

[Tel]

Good thoughts, not bad ones: imagine the fun you could have.

 

[Tel]

A quick rummage through my LF parts department turned up a full-plate back and a 5x7 back. Not sure what cameras these came from, but the 5x7 one is all there. It needs some cosmetic work but with the addition of some wood on all four sides to bring it up to full plate dimensions, you could have an easy conversion solution.

 

[Kino]

A quick rummage through my LF parts department turned up a full-plate back and a 5x7 back. Not sure what cameras these came from, but the 5x7 one is all there. It needs some cosmetic work but with the addition of some wood on all four sides to bring it up to full plate dimensions, you could have an easy conversion solution.

Wow! Thank you for letting me know! I still have not managed to negotiate the sale, but if I do, I shall be PMing you for sure!

 

[Tel]

Fingers crossed.

 

[AnselMortensen]

Whole plate is a beautiful, visually-appealing, proportional format.
Making contact prints on 8x10 paper with a white border is a beautiful thing.
I had a Seneca whole plate camera, but sold it because I moved up to 8x10.
I hope the deal works out for you...
BTW, Custom Bellows is a GREAT resource...Keith is great to work with, and their quality is unsurpassed.
I've had them make 4 bellows for various cameras, and I recommend them without hesitation.

 

[jimgalli]

Did this become a reality? I do my share of full plate, but not for the usual reasons. I have long rolls of Agfa Aviphot. 9.5" X 200 feet. With practice it has become easy for me to roll out 6 1/2", make a cut, then turn the film and trim the 9.5 down to 8.5. So my full plate shots are only costing me about 85 cents. I also cut 8X10 and 5X7 from the long rolls but the 6585 has the least amount of wasted film from trimming. Most bang for the buck. Look up Aviphot on Ebay. Tubing and bulbs are available from sellers there also. It's a very rewarding set up. To make a 5X7 back though, there are many old Eastman 2D 8X10 to 5X7 reducing backs. They aren't worth much. Buy one of those and trim it down to the right dimensions for the 6585. Minimal wood working skills needed, although you'll need a router table to cut in the light trap relief once it's resized for your camera. Custom.

 

[jimgalli]

Also as to a lens. The Turner Reich that they catalogued as 5X8 is superb. iirc it's 8 1/2", 14" and 20". They all covered more than the advertised. I've got some to sell if you don't find one.

 

[Kino]

Also as to a lens. The Turner Reich that they catalogued as 5X8 is superb. iirc it's 8 1/2", 14" and 20". They all covered more than the advertised. I've got some to sell if you don't find one.

Jim,

It hasn't transpired yet; the seller went on vacation and I am awaiting their return to continue my attempts to obtain the camera.

Many thanks for all the good tips! Sounds like an inexpensive way to enjoy this camera and I appreciate the advice!

Will touch base about the lens if he decides to sell it to me.

 

[Kino]

Too bad; the guy is being real coy about the camera and keeps putting me off.

I think he thinks it's worth a large bag of gold.

Oh well, win some, lose some...

 

[Kino]

I have long rolls of Agfa Aviphot. 9.5" X 200 feet. With practice it has become easy for me to roll out 6 1/2", make a cut, then turn the film and trim the 9.5 down to 8.5. So my full plate shots are only costing me about 85 cents. I also cut 8X10 and 5X7 from the long rolls but the 6585 has the least amount of wasted film from trimming. Most bang for the buck. Look up Aviphot on Ebay.

@jimgalli , about the Agfa Aviphot; is it on thin Estar base and do you have to make accommodations to use it in a typical film holder? I now have a 5x7 Korona I am rebuilding, but have reentered negotiations with the Whole Plate camera owner, so it may happen yet.

 

[jimgalli]

The aviphot is on a 4 mil base as opposed to 7mil for sheet film. I make no focus shift alterations over a 3 mil distance difference. Most of us are doing very well if our ground glass and image plane are within that range a 3 mil differential anyways. That said, no other accommodation is necessary because the natural curl of the film from the roll, it's rolled emulsion side in, that curl works to hold the film against the back of the film holder just fine. The only thing I've found is that 4X5 is just too small and those don't stay in whatever development system you're using. But 5X7 sheets work great in my JOBO Pro system tanks. For 5X7 you just roll out the 5" side and make a cut, then trim from 9.5 down to 7" and load 'em up.

 

[Kino]

The aviphot is on a 4 mil base as opposed to 7mil for sheet film. I make no focus shift alterations over a 3 mil distance difference. Most of us are doing very well if our ground glass and image plane are within that range a 3 mil differential anyways. That said, no other accommodation is necessary because the natural curl of the film from the roll, it's rolled emulsion side in, that curl works to hold the film against the back of the film holder just fine. The only thing I've found is that 4X5 is just too small and those don't stay in whatever development system you're using. But 5X7 sheets work great in my JOBO Pro system tanks. For 5X7 you just roll out the 5" side and make a cut, then trim from 9.5 down to 7" and load 'em up.

Great! Fantastic information!
Thanks!

 

[GregY]

As mentioned, full plate is a great size for contact printing....substantially bigger than 5x7" (55 square inches compared to 35...). Ilford does offer the size during its annual ULF run.

 

[Kino]

OK, I did manage to purchase the camera.

Of course, the bellows look like a Christmas Tree when you put a flashlight in side and turn off the lights. However, it was surprising the bellows extended the full length of the bed and extension without ripping apart.

Replacing these bellows is going to be staggeringly expensive; 28 inch/700mm draw!

Still not enthusiastic about how the last person punched through the bellows with the tube for the Packard Shutter and it seems "lazy" and the spring may need to be replaced or shortened, as it intrudes on the circle cut-out behind the lens.

I've seen instances where the pneumatic hose barb was on the lens board, rather than through the bellows material, so I might go that route instead. I'd like to keep the Packard Shutter for barrel lenses, but it can be sacrificed if need be...

I was surprised it had these wooden reinforcement bars that slide under the extensions and camera bed to stiffen the entire camera; I have never seen that before, but then again I am not a knowledgeable Large Format photographer.

Other than the bellows, the camera appears to be fully functional; well worth the wait!

It's going to take a while before I get this one going...

 

[AnselMortensen]

Congratulations!
That looks like a fun project.

 

[Kino]

Congratulations!
That looks like a fun project.

Thanks!

Hope I don't have to take out a mortgage to buy a suitable lens for this camera...