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Fujifilm Super Prodol

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RattyMouse

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Does anyone know (and use) Fujifilm Super Prodol developer? Is this a D-76 knock off developer or is there a different formulation? I'm in Japan right now and see bags of this developer for only $3 and am thinking about picking up a half dozen or so. Looking for feedback from those who have used this developer.

Thanks!
 

mooseontheloose

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I've never used it, preferring to stick to developers I know and can information from in English, but a quick look on the internet shows that a lot of people are using it with different films. It's cheap so why not try it?
 

Helinophoto

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Humm.....

I have it, but I (still) haven't used it.

If I remember correctly, Super-prodol is formulated with Neopan 1600 and pushing specially in mind, to get max speed and fine grain, I am sure it will suit Neopan 400 pretty good as well, I've seen people use it with Tri-X.
They come in bags for 1 liter, so why not pick up a few of them and try them out?

- No idea what kind of formula it is though, sorry I cannot help you there. :smile:

EDIT
I found an old article trough waybackmachine, which talks about Super Prodol and other Japanese developers, mostly compared to D-76.

A little technical for me, but here goes:
"Super Prodol (SPD) is a rapid processing, push process developer provided in dry powder package. The developing agent listed is hydroquinone (3.9%) which is probably augmented with phenidone or its derivative. The developer contains 70-90% of sodium sulfite, and buffered with metaboric acid (3.4%) and sodium carbonate (3-7%). This formula resembles Crawley's FX-37. This developer is likely to contain bromide restrainer or possibly other antifoggant. "

waybackmachine link:
https://web.archive.org/web/2005082...rain.org/Photo-Tech/film-dev-JP-formulae.html


Japanexposures claims 4-8 times speed increase, which I would take with a pretty huge grain of salt.

Hmm....maybe I should break a bag open and run some neopan 400 and 1600 trough and see what I get. ^^

http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/film-analog/super-prodolfilm-developer-1l.html
 
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StoneNYC

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Yes get as much as possible and send some to me!

I've always wanted to use that, it's the only powder dev I would ever consider using.

It's supposed to be like magic.

No seriously I've only heard good things about it. But they don't export it outside of Japan, just like Velvia50 in 4x5 and 8x10 sheets, fuji keeps the best stuff for Japan only! :sad:
 

Helinophoto

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Yes get as much as possible and send some to me!

I've always wanted to use that, it's the only powder dev I would ever consider using.

It's supposed to be like magic.

No seriously I've only heard good things about it. But they don't export it outside of Japan, just like Velvia50 in 4x5 and 8x10 sheets, fuji keeps the best stuff for Japan only! :sad:

Stone, I just linked to a webshop that sell the stuff outside Japan, I ordered my bags from that place, came just fine, just like from any other place, albeit a little more expensive than picking it up yourself, because of shipping etc.

You can order here:
1 Liter:
http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/film-analog/super-prodolfilm-developer-1l.html

5 Liter:
http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/film-analog/super-prodolfilm-developer-5l.html

Replenisher (if that is your game):
http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/film-analog/super-prodol-replenisher.html
 
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RattyMouse

RattyMouse

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Well, I bought 10 liters worth of the stuff so I guess I'll see how it goes. I shoot loads of Acros so this developer should suit me pretty well I think.

I'm just about out of HC-110 and this comes at a perfect time.

The only problem is, what if I REALLY like this developer and want more?
 

Helinophoto

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Just a small update to this thread, this is about longevity and storage-options.
I had a batch of stock-solution, mixed in January 2016, just sitting on my shelf, at varying room-temperature, in a used plastic coke-bottle.

So a few days ago, I had shot some Neopan 1600 (still have 45 rolls of it in my freezer) and shot that at EI 1000 (I normally shoot it at 1000 or 1250).

Finding the bottle of Super Prodol, i decided to do a clip-test with some random, exposed film i had lying around. (It may be Polypan, I'm not sure).
Anyway, the clip-test showed a pretty good and dense strip, but not completely opaque, so I decided to mix the working solution with 3 parts developer and 2 parts water, making the ratio 1.5:1, a bit stronger than the normal 1:1 deal.
I also extended the development time for the Neopan1600 from the nominal 7 minutes, to 8 minutes.

EOS_30_Neopan_1600_at_1000_16_.jpg
EOS_30_Neopan_1600_at_1000_35_-3.jpg


After that, I souped some Kodak Plus-x (cine), in the now used working solution, a film which has been sitting on the shelf for about 4 months, and gave that 8 minutes too.

Zorki1_Jupiter_3_PLUS_X_04_.jpg
Zorki1_Jupiter_3_PLUS_X_14_.jpg

Yes same park, different times of the year, often go there to test stuff ^^

Negatives from both films looked denser than normal, the Plus-x the most dense, so it probably need less time in general. None of the strips are so dense that it would be an big issue printing them, the plus-x would be harder to recover highlights from, in general they are just a bit denser than normal, that's how accurate I can describe that.

Scanning talk in small letters, describing needed adjustments.
Another way to describe it, is that the Neopan only needed a slight reduction in exposure before setting the black and white points, while the Plus-x needed about 0.5 stop reduction in exposure, plus reduction/recovery of highlights and whites, as well as lowering black-point and shadows, before a final curves adjustment to regain normality.

Anyway, nothing scientific, I just wanted to make a note of how long the stock-solution keeps.
The clip-test may have been the Polypan acting weird in the developer, not creating complete black for the duration I had it in there. I did the clip-test at 1:1 working solution and possibly the time I used for the clip-test was not long enough for that film to fully develop i suppose.

The Super-prodol, based on the look of the negatives I got from this little session, showed that it was very much alive, even after more than 1 and a half year in storage at stock-solution..

I did top off the bottle with some Tetenal protectan back in 2016, and the water i used, was regular tap-water, which was run trough a Brita-filter can, nothing fancy.

Not bad at all.

Ps and note to self: Do the clip-test with the actual film in question, for the time intended :tongue:
 
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bvy

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Funny, I was just looking up Fuji developers the other day, just as a matter of curiosity. Fujidol, Finedol and variants show up on the data sheet for Acros. I wonder if Fuji still makes them.
 
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RattyMouse

RattyMouse

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Funny, I was just looking up Fuji developers the other day, just as a matter of curiosity. Fujidol, Finedol and variants show up on the data sheet for Acros. I wonder if Fuji still makes them.
Last time I was in Japan, a few years ago, there were tons of Fuji chemicals and papers available. I bought some Super Prodol but ended up having to throw it away. The company shipping my belongings home would not touch chemicals.
 

Helinophoto

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Man, that sucks RattyMouse, sorry to hear.

How the horesemanure are you going to get hold of any photo-related thing, it's based on chemistry.
Weird, but I seem to remember you sometimes are in Japan, make sure you pick some up then, the 1 liter bags are the size of a D76 bag.
 

Helinophoto

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Funny, I was just looking up Fuji developers the other day, just as a matter of curiosity. Fujidol, Finedol and variants show up on the data sheet for Acros. I wonder if Fuji still makes them.

When I google Fujidol discontinued, and only exact results, I find articles from 2007 mentioning that they discontinued these back then.
 

Trask

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I've used SPD a few times -- with Acros rated at 80, and with Neopan 400 rated at 400 -- though my notes show that I could have gone to 500 no problem. It's a nice developer, has its own look.

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