Yeah you and me are looking at the same website. I sent them an email asking if they knew how long remaining stock will last but they did not have an answer.I was actually just researching this too. I haven't tried but I know a microfilm supplier website where you can order it, but it's a minimum of two rolls.
I did find a guy who has shot Fuji Minipositive II: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rentavet/albums/72157718191144603/
Fuji has exited the microfilm business, so any Fuji microfilm is only going to get harder to source. I was hoping to get 105mm rolls of Super HR-24 or HR-26 but I think those are gone until one surfaces on the resale market
Curious if anyone has more information.
I have had mixed experiences with direct positive films. I’ve shot 3 now, although only just shot the 3rd so it hasn’t been developed yet. I shot Astrum Mikrat Ortho (FPP super positive), and was disappointed with how thin the negs are. Cool film, but doesn’t make very good slides unfortunately. Kodak 2422 is the other one I have experienced, and it has great potential for alt process work, but it is SOOOOO SLOW. You thought FPP super positive was slow? Yeah, 2422 is like 4 stops slower.What expectations do you have for the direct duplication film?
That would be very interesting, but I would still not be able to buy it on my own. I would have to make a group buy selling it in 120/220 and 4x5, and I just don’t know how comfortable I am doing that with this film considering there is zero information about it.I might be willing to get one roll of you'd want to split it, but it does seem like a complete shot in the dark
That would be very interesting, but I would still not be able to buy it on my own. I would have to make a group buy selling it in 120/220 and 4x5, and I just don’t know how comfortable I am doing that with this film considering there is zero information about it.
I can’t just give it away for free like I did with the 2465 stuff. Would have to sell at full price and i know that’s a hard sell. I did that with 2422, and I still have an almost completely full roll of it that I haven’t been able to sell, or find any use for myself, and that cost me around $200. I don’t want that to happen again.
Well, according to the plot you posted, not necessarily monstrous - just very high. Squinting at it looks like a 6-stop latitude, which might make it suitable for something low-contrast like heavily overcast weather.We’re probably talking about monstrous contrast
So, I take it that this would mean that the dark areas wouldn’t be very dense at all?Well, according to the plot you posted, not necessarily monstrous - just very high. Squinting at it looks like a 6-stop latitude, which might make it suitable for something low-contrast like heavily overcast weather.
The main issue I see is that density appears to be limited to 1.5logD. For a negative that would be OK, but for a positive, I don't see how this could ever be useful for photographic purposes; you want at least 2.5logD or so to have reasonable blocking power in the shadows. 1.5logD basically looks like mild grey; these positives will look bland and bloodless to the naked eye. You might be able to intensify them of course with permanganate or dichromate. But that kind of removes the advantage of a direct positive material...
Yes, indeed. If this material can't do much more than 1.5logD, you're stuck with a disappointingly flat grey instead of black.So, I take it that this would mean that the dark areas wouldn’t be very dense at all?
Looking at Inagelink HQ, that has a density just over 2, and that looks alright? How much of a difference would that make compared with that?Yes, indeed. If this material can't do much more than 1.5logD, you're stuck with a disappointingly flat grey instead of black.
Found my DP negatives. Here they are compared to Imagelink HQ.Just over 2 is still not all that dense, but might be OK-ish if you don't backlight it too strongly. 1.5 will be significantly lighter; keep in mind that 0.3logD is one stop, so the Fuji stuff will look 2 stops less dense on its blacks than the Imagelink you've got. It's a significant difference.
If budget allows at some point, get a Stouffer step tablet or some other density reference; then scan/print that along with some of your own negatives/positives. You'll develop a feeling for how the log scale works and what to expect/aim for. Well, if you care about the numbers; there's no real need of course. Just eyeballing results is fine, too. But when reading a curve like this one it can help to have something of a benchmark/reference.
Hearing this makes me wonder if the Astrum stuff IS this Fuji film… that would actually make some sense.The one on the right looks like much less than >2.0 to me; I'd expect that to be 1.3-1.6 or so. So yes, I expect that would be how the Fuji stuff might turn out if you get it to behave according to spec.
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