Fuji E-6 Processing time

[Jacko1729]

After re-thinking and re-reading a bit, I'm wondering if I'm figuring the correct amount of time for first developer and Fuji E-6. My Jobo book says increase first developer by 16%, so 6.5 minutes would increase to 7.5 (7.47) minutes. An entire minute longer (assuming I calculated correctly) seems like an awful long time. I'm getting ready to process a couple of 'test' rolls, and I'd like to use the correct time for Fuji as my starting point. So, am I close, or from your experience what is a 'correct' first developer time? Thanks very much!

Jack O'Brien

 

[Roger Hicks]

Dear Jack,

I found it too long too. Half a minute seems about right for me. But surprisingly, 30 seconds isn't as important as you might think. Yes, you can see the difference, but the tranny will still be usable for almost all applications.

Cheers,

Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com)

 

[Baxter Bradford]

I find it simpler to adjust film speed and stick to the standard process times. Thus I can then process different emulsions in the same tank (KISS) which is both more convenient and economical. In fact I find it only really RVP50 which needs a change. I use ISO40, others find ISO32 better for their metering technique.

The guy I got the Jobo from has denoted in the manual that he did use 7:30 for Fuji films.

 

[markbb]

I've come to the conclusion that sticking to the advised time of 6:15 seconds is fine for fuji film (provia 100 sheets) with the Tetenal 3-bath kit. However, I start timing when I start to pour in the chemicals, and *start* to dump after 6:15. There's a good 20-30 seconds before the first load of wash hits the film.

Other people adjust the EI in camera (1/3 extra stop seems to be common). The best advice is to come-up with a routine that works for you & stick with it!

 

[davetravis]

Hi Jacko,
With all other variables being controlled and consistent: temp, rotation, washing, fill/drain times, etc...I've always used the 7:30 first dev and got great results for the Fuji. Your results however may vary...

 

[Jacko1729]

Hi Jacko,
With all other variables being controlled and consistent: temp, rotation, washing, fill/drain times, etc...I've always used the 7:30 first dev and got great results for the Fuji. Your results however may vary...

Thanks Dave! I think I'm going to go with the 7:30 time, it's good to know that you're getting great results with it. I'm trying to be very consistent with the other variables, plus jotting notes to compare.

 

[Jacko1729]

I've come to the conclusion that sticking to the advised time of 6:15 seconds is fine for fuji film (provia 100 sheets) with the Tetenal 3-bath kit. However, I start timing when I start to pour in the chemicals, and *start* to dump after 6:15. There's a good 20-30 seconds before the first load of wash hits the film.

Other people adjust the EI in camera (1/3 extra stop seems to be common). The best advice is to come-up with a routine that works for you & stick with it!

I think I will process my second test batch with the shorter time just for comparative purposes. I try to time the 'dump and wash' as you describe It'll be interesting to see the difference that one minute makes.

 

[Jacko1729]

Dear Jack,

I found it too long too. Half a minute seems about right for me. But surprisingly, 30 seconds isn't as important as you might think. Yes, you can see the difference, but the tranny will still be usable for almost all applications.

Cheers,

Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com)

Thanks Roger It's encouraging to know I won't totally blow a batch with the shorter time. I remember comments from others that I've talked to that they also found the first dev time a little to long. I'm looking forward to my 'experiment'.

Jack

 

[Jacko1729]

I find it simpler to adjust film speed and stick to the standard process times. Thus I can then process different emulsions in the same tank (KISS) which is both more convenient and economical. In fact I find it only really RVP50 which needs a change. I use ISO40, others find ISO32 better for their metering technique.

The guy I got the Jobo from has denoted in the manual that he did use 7:30 for Fuji films.

That is interesting, a completely different approach. I like the idea of being able to process different emulsions in the same tank. If I'm understanding correctly, I would slightly 'over expose' the film, but slightly 'under develop' during processing? I will certainly have to give this a try!

Thanks,

Jack

 

[DKT]

jack--that would be the theory for b/w processing, but E6 is a standardized process. so, your first development time should (in a perfect world) handle different types of film all at once. the range is really about 6-7 minutes for the first developer in kodak E6. The film speed would be adjusted back against this...

fwiw---when we shot provia 100 & 400, we rated it as 80 and 320, respectivley in kodak E6 with a first developer time of 6'15" at 102. that was using the long Kodak Q-Lab control strips as well for the process control.

 

[Jacko1729]

jack--that would be the theory for b/w processing, but E6 is a standardized process. so, your first development time should (in a perfect world) handle different types of film all at once. the range is really about 6-7 minutes for the first developer in kodak E6. The film speed would be adjusted back against this...

fwiw---when we shot provia 100 & 400, we rated it as 80 and 320, respectivley in kodak E6 with a first developer time of 6'15" at 102. that was using the long Kodak Q-Lab control strips as well for the process control.

I'm starting to get the feeling I should stay with the standard first dev time and adjust film speed, which is also beginning to make a lot more sense Now that I have a (hopefully) good thermometer, I'm hoping for much better results. Thanks!

Jack

 

[fatboy22]

Hi Jacko,

I process my Fuji Velvia 100 at normal development times in Kodak one shot chemistry, jobo atl 1000. I tried the extended development time (15%)and my chromes looked a little washed out.

Jamie