Fuji Across 4x5 negative problem

[Willie Jan]

I got the (loose sheet, box of 25) film last year, kept it in the refigerator whole time. 1 day before shooting i took it out and let it warm up for 24h. Shot it in my studio.
After that i did the same with ilford fp4+, no problems there...

there are even in the middle things visible that should not be there.
i shot 3 negs and they all three have these things (looks different)
Anybody an idea what could be the problem?

 

[keithwms]

Was it (the acros) shot in loose sheet form or quickload?

It looks a bit like a polaroid issue to me, as if you ran a quickload through a pola holder with rollers engaged.

 

[Willie Jan]

it is the loose sheet form.

 

[glbeas]

Looks a little like dichroic fog to me. Hard to be sure without actually handling the film. How fresh were the chemicals?

 

[Willie Jan]

the chemicals (pyrocat HD) als fresh made by me just before the development. I also did a development with fp4+ which was fine...
(and it is a box of 20, not 25...)

 

[glbeas]

The developer is usually not the culprit with dichroic fog, but the stop or fix usually at the point of going from acidic to alkali and full of silver byproducts. A good rinse to get rid of the developer usually helps avoid this though sometimes a dying fixer will do it even to the inside of the bottle.

 

[Willie Jan]

The developer is usually not the culprit with dichroic fog, but the stop or fix usually at the point of going from acidic to alkali and full of silver byproducts. A good rinse to get rid of the developer usually helps avoid this though sometimes a dying fixer will do it even to the inside of the bottle.

The stop is fresh made each development session.
The fix was just new for the first sheets. (200cc amaloco X89 for 1 liter).
I never had these problems before.

Could this be a problem due to scanning from sending a package over?
Or does this look different when the film is fogged due to scan devices?

 

[glbeas]

Looking closely at the picture posted I can see what looks like a smeared fingerprint on the edge of the sheet. Could be something got on your hands before you loaded the film that came off on the film. That or somebody else has been monkeying with your film and leaving marks on it. Did it get a hand inspection on the way over to you?

 

[Photo Engineer]

Looks like moisture on the film, or scuff marks.

I have seen this with loose film or paper in a box that is shaken. The sheets scuff each other and can leave marks like this.

It could be either or both, or something wrong with the processing. Hard to tell from a scan.

I'm even having to assume that this is a positive image we are looking at, and therefore the edge marks and streaks are denser than the surround. The OP does not make it clear, and the image one that is hard to tell regards its polarity.

PE

 

[Willie Jan]

Looks like moisture on the film, or scuff marks.

I have seen this with loose film or paper in a box that is shaken. The sheets scuff each other and can leave marks like this.

It could be either or both, or something wrong with the processing. Hard to tell from a scan.

I'm even having to assume that this is a positive image we are looking at, and therefore the edge marks and streaks are denser than the surround. The OP does not make it clear, and the image one that is hard to tell regards its polarity.

PE

Actually you are looking at the negative.
I made it somewhat darker to see the problem better...

The strange thing is that the marks are also in the middle of the sheet. When I should have touched it, it is always at the side, not the middle.

 

[Trevor Crone]

I know Acros is sensitive to handling and is easily marked. I always wear clean rubber (nitrile) gloves when handling film.

I've only ever used Across 100 in Quickloads and for some reason it didn't seem to like Pyro developer I was always getting the odd mark here and there, little blotches. When I developed the film in Rodinal dil.1:50 it was perfect!

Have you tried different developers?

Regards,
Trevor.

 

[Willie Jan]

I know Acros is sensitive to handling and is easily marked. I always wear clean rubber (nitrile) gloves when handling film.

I've only ever used Across 100 in Quickloads and for some reason it didn't seem to like Pyro developer I was always getting the odd mark here and there, little blotches. When I developed the film in Rodinal dil.1:50 it was perfect!

Have you tried different developers?

Regards,
Trevor.

Trevor, I did a test with fuji super prodol which i still had as a powder and the neg looks ok! You are right about the pyro not suitable for fuji acros film...

Thanks!