Hello, I shot the film at 400asa instead of 100asa. Any thoughts on what to do when developing this film. I would really love to save this roll. Thanks Arthur
Tell the lab what has happened and they will push process it which is just changing the amount of time it is developed. If you are doing it yourself, I can't really be of any help.
Shoot another test roll with the same mix-up under similar lighting conditions, cut the roll in half, develop for 50% more time. See if you developed too much or too little. Adjust, try again. Then when you're in the ball park develop your important roll.
Thomas gives good advice. It would also be helpful to know what developer you are using. I would expect that something like xtol or ddx might be a good idea. I tend to use Rodinal with Acros and it would have a hard time with a 2 stop push. I use xtol with tri-x and I can get a 2 stop push (with no detail in shadows of course).
Take a look at http://photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00ClmV and http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/04/10/fuji-acros-100-and-diafine-developer-part-2/ I have used it in Diafine and like it. In my test roll exposed at EI 500, 250, 125, 64 and 32 with a subject in full sun the EI 500 shots had little shadow detail in the deep shade. But overall the image was nice. If I had done what you did I would use Diafine. Try Adorama if you can't get it in your area.
Thanks all. I develolpe my own film and i use D76 1:1 I will probably add 50% to the time and hope for the best. I was also thinking of stand development with Rodinal 1:100. Arthur
Good luck. You won't know if you got it right until afterward... All the info on digitaltruth and other places are individual. People meter differently, their lighting conditions are different, heck even the pH of their water is different (which affects development). The only way you can find out for sure it to test for yourself. And Diafine - inflexible. You can't adjust your results by developing longer. So a roll of two stop (or more, depending on what EI you normally shoot it at, I used it at EI 80, so for me it would be 2-1/3 stop) underexposure not even Diafine can save. And if it was flat lighting - good luck printing those negs. They'll probably scan nicely, though. - Thomas
Lots of good advice here. Not to disagree with the sage advice, but... on the other hand, it's only two stops, right! It's not a disaster. My guess is that the negs will still print quite well if overdeveloped a tad. You could simply do a clip test (if your first or last frame wasn't important) and determine that you need a wee bit more development. The thing about mistakes is that you can learn a lot from them! Once, I shot some IR film but... forgot to put on the IR filter!!! So the frames were all exposed by 8+ stops! The film developed to what look like pure black :roll: But, holding them up to bright light, I thought I saw a bit of detail. So I slapped them on a scanner and... surprise surprise, plenty of detail there. And the grain kinda worked with the scene. If you do scan underexposed/underdeveloped b&w negs, you'll probably be amazed at what you can get, but it will be grainy and any dust or scratches will be prominent. Bathing the neg in selenium can help a little (not much, just a little, but enough to see in the result from the scanner).
Fuji across is a bad film for underexposure. It's critical at that point. I use/rate it at 50 asa in combination with rodinal or pyrocat hd, So 400 would be an overexposure of 3 stops. That would mean that your zone III (middle gray) is placed in VI. Be aware that your original scene zone II,IV and V will not contain detal when developed with rodinal or pyrocat-hd. overdeveloping your film will not get detail in these shadow regions. The only thing you could do is choose a developer that is capable of using the fuji across at a iso value > 100. The higher the better for your case.
Underexposed film will always be that. You could try undiluted Ilford Microphen and develop for around 8-9 minutes.
