Fuji 6x9 Rangefinder

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That's a really cool tool Ken. I probably would have downloaded the old one had I known about it. I guess I need to explore the rest of APUG other than just the forums some! Can you let us know when you have the new one has been uploaded and is available?

PM (err... Conversation message) sent, Roger. I don't want to continue sidetracking Parker's original thread topic.

:smile:

Ken
 

Soeren

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Hey don't cut the rest of us out now :mad: That's some awesome software youve got there :smile:
 

amellice

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The GATE column indicates whether the film gate dimension used in the calculation for that line is a Nominal value (60x60mm for a 6x6 format), or the true Actual value (56x56mm for 6x6). That tiny difference can make a substantial difference in the results.

Another example might be 4x5 sheet film, which is not actually 4-inches by 5-inches in size to begin with, and is even less once the actual image area is masked off by the film holder.

The tool itself is a personal creation by and for myself. It's been around since 2009 and was originally designed to create flash-to-subject distance tables that could be printed and stuck on my various cameras. Back then I had an old no-name electronic flash that had lost its calculator dial and I needed a replacement table. Later when I began using flashbulbs on a Graflex, it was perfect for those as well.

Since that time the tool has turned into sort of a Swiss Army knife of strange features, each of which I needed at some point in time and could not find another source for answers, and so got tossed into the eclectic mix.

Here's the main help screen for a better idea of what it (currently) does. It's an old-school Windows command line utility because it was originally intended just for me to get quick answers to my own questions. Although as such it does seem like a philosophically complementary fit for old-school analog photography in general...


View attachment 152768

The earlier use in this thread for converting 6x9 focal lengths to equivalent 135 focal lengths was achieved by invoking the /efl option shown above, together with the /h option for data highlighting.

I had an earlier downloadable version of this utility in the Articles section of the old APUG, just for anyone who might like to play around with it. I think a small handful of members here might have looked at it. But there was quite a bit more interest from outside of APUG, since the articles themselves showed up in Google searches.

The above screen shows a much newer version than that older one. I was going to wait for Sean to get around to reworking the new Resources section (the Articles replacement forum), then upload this newer version there.

Ken
nice, looks pretty :smile:
 
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RattyMouse

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I was just looking at a friends yesterday. As the term "Texas Leica" implies, it's a lot bigger in person. I've been reading a lot of negative comments about the more recent Fuji MF rangefinders with electronics, but not these all mechanical beasts.

What negative comments? Cost aside (and it's a big difference), the GF670 and GF670W are worlds better than the old Fuji rangefinders. Very modern, almost luxurious cameras compared to the spartan ones being talked about in this thread. The new camera's rangefinder alone are shocking with its huge patch and very bright glass. Yes, they are electronic but so are most other cameras.
 

mgb74

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What negative comments? Cost aside (and it's a big difference), the GF670 and GF670W are worlds better than the old Fuji rangefinders. Very modern, almost luxurious cameras compared to the spartan ones being talked about in this thread. The new camera's rangefinder alone are shocking with its huge patch and very bright glass. Yes, they are electronic but so are most other cameras.

The negative comments I've read are all about reliability, not performance. It's all anecdotal, so feel free to contradict me. But (there was a url link here which no longer exists) is just one example. Of course, mechanical cameras have issue too, but electronics add a layer of complexity and vulnerability (as well as functionality) above that.

And it seems electronics tend to fail regardless of usage. So I can't say "well, I've gotten 1,000 rolls of usage out of this camera". Someone who puts a 1,000 rolls through in 2-3 years might have a different view.

So my concern about the newer versions is whether they repairable. Are replacement electronic parts available and, if so, for how long? I don't believe Fuji has an enviable record for long-term support of their cameras. BTW, in US, manufacturers for most goods must have spare parts available only during the life of the warranty. I don't know about other geographies.

It's a risk vs. reward decision; which varies by individual.
 

macfred

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FUJI's GF670 series are very desirable cameras - I would like to have one …
But they are outrageously expensive …
So I will shoot my GW670iii - and if it's broken (and can't be fixed for a reasonable price), I'll go for another one …
 
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Oh my, just got my new GW690III from KEH. I am smitten. After carrying around an RZ and a Hassy 553 ELX, this thing feels like a feather. It's really not heavy at all.

Thanks for all the feedback. I can't wait to get productive with this thing. :D
 

CropDusterMan

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Oh my, just got my new GW690III from KEH. I am smitten. After carrying around an RZ and a Hassy 553 ELX, this thing feels like a feather. It's really not heavy at all.

Thanks for all the feedback. I can't wait to get productive with this thing. :D

Awesome man! Glad you are happy.
 

Theo Sulphate

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These were designed for pros who photographed groups of tourists at sites in Japan. They have a rubber / plastic covering, but have a metal shell. They should last a long time without issues.

Fuji recommended servicing the shutter after 5000 actuations (counter reads 500 or rolls over to 0).

My GW690III is at 46.

The manual can be found online.
 

CropDusterMan

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There are a ton of these on Ebay out of Japan...I always loved the format for un-cropped double
page spreads.
 

craigclu

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I've had various Fuji RF's over the years and settled on keeping one... The slightly odd GSW680III. They're easily found, even though they were originally intended for the Japanese market and not seen much in the US. Merits to me are that common print sizes for me (8X10 and 11X14) crops the edges of the negative anyway. I love that I have 9 frames per roll and they fit standard 3 strip negative pages nicely (sounds petty, I know!). There is an edgy contrast in the optics that can cause some printing issues for me if not compensated for a bit in contrasty situations.
 
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I love that I have 9 frames per roll and they fit standard 3 strip negative pages nicely (sounds petty, I know!).

That's actually one of the things that drives me nuts about the 6x7, that 10th frame that has to be housed in an entirely new page. I usually end up cutting into twos so one frame doesn't get lonely and wander off.
 

BetterSense

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I have been around and around this search for the ideal travel MF myself. I have a GW690 but I find that I waste the edges of the negative. Just can't get used to the aspect ratio. I think I would prefer a camera of similar morphology but 6x7 or even 6x6 more. Thus the GF670 is appealing, but I hate batteries and it doesn't give me a good feeling as to durability.

Although it is not super heavy the fixed lens makes the 6x9 it bulky. I think if I could be content with 1 lens, my RB67 wouldn't be any harder to tote and has interchangeable backs. Maybe this is what leads people to the P67 or Mamiya 6/7, don't want to pony up the money for either just to try out.

I also tried out a 6x9 view camera which was lighter and easier to pack than any MF I tried excepf folders, but I found the tripod requirement and setup time killed spontaneity. Might as well pack a tachihara and have a bigger gg.

You know I'm strongly considering going 35mm-only. With an OM1 kit I could pack every lens, and still save weight and size, and not strictly need a tripod. Cameras like to N70s are so light they weigh less than many 50mm lenses. I could pack Delta 100 and PanF and the image quality would be fine for most prints. Not to mention i could pack 4x more exposures and worry less about airport xrays and light leaks. I just hate printing 35mm negatives after seeing for much better MF is.
 
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craigclu

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I got into MF with Rolleiflex and Mamiya TLR's and got accustomed to waist level finders (I'm old and this was many years ago). I'm surprised how compact some SLR's are with the WL finder instead of the prism attached, but it's certainly not for everybody. I've played with this a bit lately and it makes a big difference. I'm still an RF guy at heart and that's what I reach for when I know I'll be trecking a bit. I've got a Mamiya 7 and it's proven quite rugged and reliable for many years. They feel a little "plasticky/body covering by Mattel" but are actually quite durable and the optics are about as good as it gets, leaving your own skill level to blame for failure (one danger of good glass).
 
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So, is there an eyepiece that's supposed to go on this thing? I've put a few rolls through and I seem to be having trouble getting the focus spots aligned, they never quite match up. Most of my frames look a bit soft through a loupe, even where I tried to hyperfocal.

Manual says "viewfinder eyepiece." Does that have glass in it or is it just a rubber cup? Mine doesn't have it, whatever it is.

IMG_2166.JPG Screen Shot 2016-04-27 at 2.46.49 PM.png
 

Prest_400

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So, is there an eyepiece that's supposed to go on this thing? I've put a few rolls through and I seem to be having trouble getting the focus spots aligned, they never quite match up. Most of my frames look a bit soft through a loupe, even where I tried to hyperfocal.

Manual says "viewfinder eyepiece." Does that have glass in it or is it just a rubber cup? Mine doesn't have it, whatever it is.
Yes, it is a Nikon F round diopter eyecup. However, optically it has no effect supposedly if it's the default without any diopter correction. I recall going around ebay while on my search for one of the Fujis and many missed the piece.
May it have misaligned RF? Mine does not seem to go until infinity but it is accurate otherwise! Intrestingly, there are very few reports & complaints around the web about misalignment of the RF.
 

Prest_400

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Dead Link Removed Maybe if I get a brighter view I can focus a bit more accurately.

I recall there was someone inquiring that he bought one (from China) and did not fit. There was a mention of two different thread sizes. For the GW's, I have found with a couple of searches:
19mm diameter x 0.75 - Nikon FM/FE/F2/F3 (non-HP)

I forgot about eyesight problems, where a diopter comes in handy. I am short sighted but use the RF with my glasses on anyways... However, the relief of the RF/VF on these cameras is not very good for glasswearers and in my case I barely see the corners.
 

gone

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I think the only negative would be the size. A 6x9 folder is one thing, the Fuji is all together something else. I was amazed when mine came out of the box. In the end, it was just too big. The film requires quite a bit of muscle to pull past the pressure plate onto the next frame too, but I don't know if that is a negative. Just a feature.
 

CropDusterMan

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I think the only negative would be the size. A 6x9 folder is one thing, the Fuji is all together something else. I was amazed when mine came out of the box. In the end, it was just too big. The film requires quite a bit of muscle to pull past the pressure plate onto the next frame too, but I don't know if that is a negative. Just a feature.


Are you actually serious? Effort in advancing to the next frame? C'mon man!
 

Theo Sulphate

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Leica M6 has best winding feel of any camera I own; better than M3 even. Seems to wind to next frame by mental power alone.
 

Huss

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The film requires quite a bit of muscle to pull past the pressure plate onto the next frame too, but I don't know if that is a negative. Just a feature.

Strange. Mine doesn't, unless you just mean it is a little heavier than winding a 35mm camera.
 
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