Freestyle own brand films and developing/scan

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bobar57

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Nov 28, 2002
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Miami,FL,USA
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35mm RF
Hi,
Soon I'll be buying my first 35mm rangefinder and I have a catalog of Freestyle with some films own branded at bargain prices.
I'm interested in B&W street and candid portraits of interesting and unsuspected models photography with little grain,high contrast and maximum sharpness.
-Which of these B&W films will you recommend for that purpose?
-Does anyone have names or links to any mail order labs that can develop them at decent prices and good quality job?
-Is it Scan Cafe a good option to have my 35mm negative film scanned?Prices are quite low.If not,which other place will be appropriate?
Forget to recommend my own development of film,I can't.I paint too-is a priority over photography- and I have no time for that.

Thanks in advance for your recommendations,

Robert
 

Poohblah

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You will be better off using C-41 color print film than sending b/w print film to a lab. Few labs will develop b/w film and it tends to be expensive; it's much much easier to do b/w development yourself. Any decent lab will do a C-41 dev and scan; 4x6 prints in addition are often cheap.

If you are sold on b/w, then there are b/w films you can buy that are C-41 process.
 

vedmak

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if you are jumping into film, that why not try to develop it yourself? That way you have more control and with enough practice get even better results that lab development since they usually not as versatile as you can be as far as different developers, film tests and other tricks of the trade discussed in depth right here :smile:
 

wblynch

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Mission Viejo
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I can load the film into a spool/tank, develop, fix, wash and hang to dry in less time than it takes me to drive over to Costco (or other local labs). 45 minutes or less to get it done. Not to mention they won't do traditional B&W.

I'm only a dork that has just started developing film but it is really easy and one can do it at midnight or 3 am if it suits the schedule. Can't go to any minilabs around here at that time.

Once you try it you will be hooked.

Scancafe is in India I believe. It might take weeks to get your scans back.
 
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bobar57

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Nov 28, 2002
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Location
Miami,FL,USA
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35mm RF
I can load the film into a spool/tank, develop, fix, wash and hang to dry in less time than it takes me to drive over to Costco (or other local labs). 45 minutes or less to get it done. Not to mention they won't do traditional B&W.

I'm only a dork that has just started developing film but it is really easy and one can do it at midnight or 3 am if it suits the schedule. Can't go to any minilabs around here at that time.

Once you try it you will be hooked.

Scancafe is in India I believe. It might take weeks to get your scans back.

I can understand that,but I have already enough worries and chores with watercolor painting as to master the medium and try to develop a clientele base to be occupied too into developing film,understand my point?
A painter needs time to paint,inspirations,motivation and daily practice.Photography is a second hobby that I won't be executing in a daily basis,just occasionally.Maybe the C-41 will be a good solution,but I had bad experiences when C-41 started in the early 2000's.Prints came out with a sepia tone and high grain.I understand that technology might have improve over the years.I'll have to try it.I hear that Costco do a decent job,is it true?

Robert
 

Poohblah

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Costco will do the job, that much is true; you might find their service and quality lacking. Modern C-41 films like Ektar are very nice, at least from what I've seen. I haven't tried any color film in a long time.
 

srs5694

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The two current C-41 B&W films are Kodak BW400CN and Ilford XP2 Super. Modern digital minilabs, such as Fuji Frontiers, can handle both of these films fine. My local Walgreens has given me back pretty convincing B&W images (on RA-4 color paper) from both types of film. OTOH, some photofinishers have messed up both types of film pretty badly.

Freestyle's house-brand films are made by known companies: Arista.EDU Ultra is made by Foma and is identical to its line, and Arista Premium is made by Kodak and is generally believed to be similar or identical to Plus-X and Tri-X, although there's debate about the details. In the past, Freestyle has also sold film made by Fuji, Agfa, Ilford, and others, but I think the Foma and Kodak products are the only ones they've got now.

One mail-order outfit I've used for B&W in the past is Dead Link Removed in Connecticut. I think that Dale Labs in Florida also does B&W, but their online order form is a bit unclear at first glance. Other people here have recommended other mail-order outfits in recent threads, but I don't have a URL handy. Note that any conventional B&W film can be processed in just about any B&W line; however, development times may need to be adjusted for optimal results, so it's important that the photofinisher know what type of film it is. If you buy a store-brand film, be sure to include a note saying "this is equivalent to such-and-such film." The note might or might not help, depending on the competence of the lab.
 

Worker 11811

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Yes, you can develop your own film. You can probably buy the necessary equipment and chemicals for under $100.00. You can develop film in your bathroom. The basic black and white film developing process is very easy to learn.

You don't have to print your photos in a traditional darkroom if you don't want to. It is very easy and convenient to scan them and manipulate them, digitally, on your computer.

This type of "hybrid photography" is becoming quite popular, these days. In fact, hybrid photography is what got me back into "real" photography again. Then, once I started getting a little photo developer in my bloodstream again, I started wanting more and, finally, I took the plunge and set up a full darkroom. You can delve into photography as little or as much as you want. You don't have to go for the whole hog right away.

As to the original question, if you want traditional black and white film "Legacy Pro 100" and "Legacy Pro 400" are some pretty tasty films from Freestyle. I use them both. I think you will like either one of them, depending on what ISO speed you want. You can develop them in any standard developer. D-76 is very popular. You might also like XTOL. Both are good developers. They are fairly cheap, easy to get and easy to handle and use.

Legacy Pro film developed in D-76 can produce negatives that are nice and sharp, have good contrast and tone. It can produce images that are easy to scan into your computer which can also be printed traditionally if some day in the future you ever decide to do that.

Legacy/D-76 is the combination that I use. I scan my negatives and use my computer to proof my photos. I store the digital copies on my hard drive for use on the internet. Then, when I decide which ones to print, I print out my digital proof sheets to use as notes in the darkroom.

Go ahead! Develop your own film! You can do it with a little practice! :smile:
 

Poohblah

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Yes, the Legacy Pro line is very nice. The 100 speed is identical to Fuji Acros but less than $2/roll, which is a very good deal.
 

Dan Daniel

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What about using a traditional color negative film, getting it developed and scanned, then converting to B&W at your leisure at home? More than anything, you will get access to changing the tonal rendering of various colors, which will probably be of immense interest to a painter.

Along with the Lgacy Pro films, the Arista Premium 135s are good. 400 is amazingly similar to Kodak Tri-X, and 100 is amazingly similar to Plus-X. So similar, you might think that they are the same.... : )

(Is mentioning scanning and changing color tones in a computer bad form here? Let me know and I'll delete myself!)
 

fotch

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;
Forget to recommend my own development of film,I can't.I paint too-is a priority over photography- and I have no time for that.

Thanks in advance for your recommendations,

Robert

Well, he said that won't work for him. Robert, to get quality B&W, its going to cost more than color. How much? IDK, haven't sent out B&W in many many many many years.
 
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bobar57

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Messages
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Miami,FL,USA
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35mm RF
Well, he said that won't work for him. Robert, to get quality B&W, its going to cost more than color. How much? IDK, haven't sent out B&W in many many many many years.

Well,I sent an email to ABC Photo Lab Dead Link Removed and asked specifically for the Freestyle own brands(naming the manufacturer and equivalent film) and for a 36 exp. roll I was quoted 7.95 for processing and scanning to standard resolution (1200x1800 px).
And i can send up to 10 rolls in one mailer(these are free).I think isn't that much damage for not doing it myself.Just my opinion.

Robert
 
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Tell me if I'm off base

I do think he should soup his own BW film. I think c-41 color neg film and chromogenic film like Ilford XP1 isn't as sharp as traditional BW film. As for film developing gear, there's tons of it on eBay for cheap. Processing your own film is cheaper and you have more control over the contrast and look of your image.
 

Worker 11811

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If you think that is a reasonable "convenience fee" then all right by me. If you're comfortable with that, do it. :smile:

Just for reference, a plastic developing tank costs approx. $25.00.
Developer, stop, fixer, hypo clearing agent and Phot-Flo will cost about $6.00 per. Each package makes up to a gallon of stock solution. (Sometimes more.) You should be able to do 10 or 20 rolls of film with this much chemistry.
You will need beakers or measuring cups. You can get these at WalMart for cheaps. Get a large plastic cat box while you are there.
Collect up some plastic milk jugs with screw-on tops. (Snap-ons are all right but screw-ons are more secure.)
You'll need a thermometer accurate to ±1 deg. Celsius. You will need a stopwatch or electronic kitchen timer that can count seconds. You might already have these things.

You will need a completely dark closet to unroll your film and to put it into your tank. You'll need a bathroom with running water. You'll need a cupboard to store your junk in when you're not using it. (That's one reason for suggesting the cat box. It makes a good storage tray.)

With these things and some other incidentals, you might have spent $75.00 so far. (A little more or less, depending on how shrewd a shopper or scavenger you are.)

If you already have a scanner for your computer, you can use that to scan your film and manipulate it on-screen. If you don't have one, it is possible to buy one for $150.00 or less which will do what you want. (I assume you already have Photoshop or something similar.)

If you process 10 rolls of film in your own bathroom, you have already cut your film developing costs down to $7.50 per roll. Every roll of film you develop above that is gravy. (Assuming you don't have to spend $150 for a scanner.)

Let's say you spend $100 on everything you need to get started. If you can develop 20 rolls of film that comes out to $5.00 per roll for processing.

Once you use up all your chemistry you don't have to spend the full $100 to restock your supplies. You can probably get it for $40.
This time your processing goes down to $2.00 per roll. Your overall, lifetime film developing costs will have been $140. You would have developed 40 rolls of film. That's $3.50 per roll.

If you sent it in to ABC Photo Lab, those 40 rolls would have cost you $318.00

You could have cut your overall film developing costs down to about $150. You could have bought a new scanner for another $150.

I'm not trying to steer you into developing your own film if you don't want to. I'm just showing you the cost break-out as I see it. Either way you do it, you would spend about the same amount of money. The difference is that you do it yourself or you pay somebody else to do it for you.

If you do it yourself, you end up with a cool scanner for your computer and you have the pride of doing everything yourself.

Once you get past this point, you only ever need to buy chemistry and consumables. Your long-term film developing costs will be somewhere in the $2.00 to $3.00 range.

There's no reason you can't send your film in to the lab then decide whether you want to do it yourself later on.
It would be a good way to "dip your toe into the waters" before you make your final decision.
 

Sirius Glass

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fotch

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Well,I sent an email to ABC Photo Lab Dead Link Removed and asked specifically for the Freestyle own brands(naming the manufacturer and equivalent film) and for a 36 exp. roll I was quoted 7.95 for processing and scanning to standard resolution (1200x1800 px).
And i can send up to 10 rolls in one mailer(these are free).I think isn't that much damage for not doing it myself.Just my opinion.

Robert

If your happy with that, go for it. :smile:
 

steelneck

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Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
173
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35mm
... photography with little grain,high contrast and maximum sharpness.

That tells me, above choice of film, that you want control over the developing process and a deliberate choice of developing chemicals, its dilution, agitation and time/temp control.
 
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bobar57

Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2002
Messages
22
Location
Miami,FL,USA
Format
35mm RF
If you think that is a reasonable "convenience fee" then all right by me. If you're comfortable with that, do it. :smile:

Just for reference, a plastic developing tank costs approx. $25.00.
Developer, stop, fixer, hypo clearing agent and Phot-Flo will cost about $6.00 per. Each package makes up to a gallon of stock solution. (Sometimes more.) You should be able to do 10 or 20 rolls of film with this much chemistry.
You will need beakers or measuring cups. You can get these at WalMart for cheaps. Get a large plastic cat box while you are there.
Collect up some plastic milk jugs with screw-on tops. (Snap-ons are all right but screw-ons are more secure.)
You'll need a thermometer accurate to ±1 deg. Celsius. You will need a stopwatch or electronic kitchen timer that can count seconds. You might already have these things.

You will need a completely dark closet to unroll your film and to put it into your tank. You'll need a bathroom with running water. You'll need a cupboard to store your junk in when you're not using it. (That's one reason for suggesting the cat box. It makes a good storage tray.)

With these things and some other incidentals, you might have spent $75.00 so far. (A little more or less, depending on how shrewd a shopper or scavenger you are.)

If you already have a scanner for your computer, you can use that to scan your film and manipulate it on-screen. If you don't have one, it is possible to buy one for $150.00 or less which will do what you want. (I assume you already have Photoshop or something similar.)

If you process 10 rolls of film in your own bathroom, you have already cut your film developing costs down to $7.50 per roll. Every roll of film you develop above that is gravy. (Assuming you don't have to spend $150 for a scanner.)

Let's say you spend $100 on everything you need to get started. If you can develop 20 rolls of film that comes out to $5.00 per roll for processing.

Once you use up all your chemistry you don't have to spend the full $100 to restock your supplies. You can probably get it for $40.
This time your processing goes down to $2.00 per roll. Your overall, lifetime film developing costs will have been $140. You would have developed 40 rolls of film. That's $3.50 per roll.

If you sent it in to ABC Photo Lab, those 40 rolls would have cost you $318.00

You could have cut your overall film developing costs down to about $150. You could have bought a new scanner for another $150.

I'm not trying to steer you into developing your own film if you don't want to. I'm just showing you the cost break-out as I see it. Either way you do it, you would spend about the same amount of money. The difference is that you do it yourself or you pay somebody else to do it for you.

If you do it yourself, you end up with a cool scanner for your computer and you have the pride of doing everything yourself.

Once you get past this point, you only ever need to buy chemistry and consumables. Your long-term film developing costs will be somewhere in the $2.00 to $3.00 range.

There's no reason you can't send your film in to the lab then decide whether you want to do it yourself later on.
It would be a good way to "dip your toe into the waters" before you make your final decision.

Randy and all other friends,I do really appreciate your advice,your honest way to send me in the right route of saving money in the long run-and that is a factor I consider since my income isn't that good-and the pointing of the experience and joy of developing my own film,but you must understand that developing film requires some concentration,technique,knowledge of formula and /or timing,and much more.
I'm a painter above all,don't get offended,I love photography too,but it's a hobby for me,and it's occasional.I won't be shooting 20 rolls in winter,lets put it as example.
Above concentration in developing,I need concentration in painting technique,inspiration to paint and time to paint,watercolor painting isn't a walk in the park.If I don't paint,I'm as well as dead.
Maybe I should have not started this after all,I might have offended without intention some dedicated photographers.

Bob
 

Sirius Glass

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Randy and all other friends,I do really appreciate your advice,your honest way to send me in the right route of saving money in the long run-and that is a factor I consider since my income isn't that good-and the pointing of the experience and joy of developing my own film,but you must understand that developing film requires some concentration,technique,knowledge of formula and /or timing,and much more.
I'm a painter above all,don't get offended,I love photography too,but it's a hobby for me,and it's occasional.I won't be shooting 20 rolls in winter,lets put it as example.
Above concentration in developing,I need concentration in painting technique,inspiration to paint and time to paint,watercolor painting isn't a walk in the park.If I don't paint,I'm as well as dead.
Maybe I should have not started this after all,I might have offended without intention some dedicated photographers.

Bob

You have not offended anyone. It is nice to see that people in other mediums come here to learn about photography. Further, twenty roll during winter is more film than some here shoot.

But be warned, when I started here I was shooting 35mm color only and sending it out. Now I have added 120 [2.25"x2.25"] and 4x5 as well as developing and printing both black & white and color.

Welcome to APUG.

Steve
 

mgb74

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Don't confuse our desire to proselytize with any offense on your part. For most of us, it makes more sense to develop and scan ourselves. Doesn't mean your needs are the same. Do what's right for you.

Either go with Arista Premium since (as rebranded Kodak it's probably the norm for most commercial b&w processing) at a mail order or local lab or Ilford XP2 and a decent 1 hr lab. The Costco I used to frequent was good - but they had the same staff there for a while.
 
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bobar57

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Joined
Nov 28, 2002
Messages
22
Location
Miami,FL,USA
Format
35mm RF
You have not offended anyone. It is nice to see that people in other mediums come here to learn about photography. Further, twenty roll during winter is more film than some here shoot.

But be warned, when I started here I was shooting 35mm color only and sending it out. Now I have added 120 [2.25"x2.25"] and 4x5 as well as developing and printing both black & white and color.

Welcome to APUG.

Steve

Well Steve,that's another story.If I develop the passion and can afford to buy more equipment,I might get more involved into photography and hopefully develop my own film. :D

Robert
 

Worker 11811

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I've got no problem with your decision. :smile:

I'm just the kind of person who likes to have as much information as possible and I like to share as much as I can.

If you want to shoot film and you want good results right away, without a lot of fussing around, sending it to the lab is probably a smart move.
If you're not sure how much film you are going to shoot and process (or have processed for you) then it is wise to hold off on buying any film equipment until you know.

At least, now, you know what all your options are. If you ever get $100 burning a hole in your pocket, you know how to spend it. :wink: :wink:

No matter how you do it, have fun shooting pictures on film! :smile:
 

Exeter2010

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From reading this - maybe this is obvious to all but me - bobnar57 said he was getting his 'new' rangefinder camera shortly, which prompted the original questions about the film, processing, etc..I have to guess from that, that the main thing here is the camera, which just happens to be a film camera. If he's an artist, the "RF style" might be the important thing and not so much whether it's film or digital. Maybe he'd be shooting digital if he could afford an M8 or M9 and then film wouldn't be an issue at all. If the type of camera didn't matter, I would have most certainly suggested that he just go out and get a digicam or something and solve the whole problem of 'what to do with the film' in one swoop; eliminate it altogether!

I'm not trying to be controversial here, most of us who shoot "real B&W" do it because of the fact, among many other reasons, that we can do it all ourselves and that it makes financial sense to do so. That, and the fact that we (or at least I) think that there is no digital substitute or equivalent for making a real silver negative and projecting it onto a piece of real silver paper to express my personal vision in a photograph. I can't get that from any lab at any price, but YMMV.

I think bobar57 just wants to be able to use his rangefinder and not worry about how he gets the photos in his hands. My two bits.
 
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