Harry Callahan
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...and that would be the Callier effect, which I've always struggled to understand, until about 48 hours ago. Here's an excerpt from an article that someone sent me, which helped immensely:
So it's basically a zone of confusion around the each grain, and the more collimated the light is, the more contrasty the print seems to be...but one could also say that the more distance there is between the lens and the print, the larger that confusion zone becomes. This is why that certain look I mentioned earlier is important, and why it happens in small enlargements: they don't have the insane level of detail and tonal separation that you find in a contact print, but they also exactly look like typical enlargements. They are deep, dense, and - when shot on a diffusion enlarger - ethereal.
The scattering is least where there is little silver deposit, and most where there is the most silver. The deflection of the light is small but becomes significant in the case of a projected image. In an enlarger, much of the scattered light is deflected sufficiently to miss the lens altogether; if this occurred uniformly in all negative areas, it would make little or no difference, but the amount of deflection actually depends upon the way in which an enlarger is built.
Yes, the interior of the lamp enclosure does have an impact on what light is emitted; darker colors and matte surfaces absorb more, and lighter colors reflect more.
The effect i`m trying to describe here should blur the grain structure, leading to more homogenous areas on the print.
Another thread that is making me happy. May I come down to your garage/shop with a box/bag of beverages and a folding chair? I will only laugh if you too are laughing. I promise I can mess up the strike of a retaining pin through a shaft like the best of them.
This is Also reminding me of my Elwood 8x10 enlarger journey. the studious will note that I have not yet posted pictures. There's a good reason for that.
My quick thought on the rear "X-braces" of the Beseler 45. One could duplicate those with turn buckles and possibly true up the frame in the process.
You may be hanging up on some aesthetics, but just mount a couple of horizontal pieces of wood or "L" channel or something to your wall to give you the mounting surface you need.
That height adjustable desk is a great idea. There are 1 or 2 companies out there from which you can buy powered legs only for anyone interested. Home Depot sells a manually adjustable workbench/table that I like but the mechanism feels a bit weak imo.
The reason for bigger prints being lower in contrast should be that the light is spread over a bigger area and by that the brightest part of the negative (the shadows on the print) become less bright in relation to the darkest area of the negative (the highlights on the print). If you print smaller, higher contrast on the print is obtained.
The 23C return springs will hold a 20-pound dumbbell stationary, although only just
That is part of it.
The other really important part is very subjective. Contrast tends to create more of an impression on us subjectively when we observe it in a small print and/or are closer to the print.
To create the same impression with a larger print that is viewed from farther away, you will need to increase the contrast. It is one of the many reasons why backlit transparencies are used in place of prints for large installations - they are inherently more contrasty, due to a larger capacity for luminosity range.
And it won't be difficult to upgrade those constant force/ tensator springs if you want. That said, a flat panel LED diffusion system would not be a bad upgrade & save quite a bit of weight.
but I wasn't sure where to look
'Constant Force Spring' is the thing to look for - they're a standard industrial part, just treat them with as much respect as a leadscrew on a lathe and you'll be ok.
That is part of it.
The other really important part is very subjective. Contrast tends to create more of an impression on us subjectively when we observe it in a small print and/or are closer to the print.
To create the same impression with a larger print that is viewed from farther away, you will need to increase the contrast.
It is one of the many reasons why backlit transparencies are used in place of prints for large installations - they are inherently more contrasty, due to a larger capacity for luminosity range.
I think this too is why wet-plate collodion has such a unique quality. It basically has to be back lit for viewing.
8020 extrusion should be fine (albeit expensive) for the basic wall mount sub-frame.
afaik, the 8020 site lists a lot of specs if you're concerned at all about shear or other forces which for a largely static thing shouldn't matter very much.
Until you end up with a 200lb load spring and send the head assembly up into your ceiling. Ha ha
Harry, I think we are talking about the same thing; give me a bit to really digest what you're saying and I will respond more thoroughly.
That is part of it.
The other really important part is very subjective. Contrast tends to create more of an impression on us subjectively when we observe it in a small print and/or are closer to the print.
To create the same impression with a larger print that is viewed from farther away, you will need to increase the contrast.
It is one of the many reasons why backlit transparencies are used in place of prints for large installations - they are inherently more contrasty, due to a larger capacity for luminosity range.
I feel like there's a structural steel "T" like that in the Simpson Strong-Tie catalogue. It would only solve 1 problem for you, and you would still have to drill the appropriate holes since it's meant for teco nails and not nuts/bolts.
I sure do dig all of the stuff that 3d printers let people come up with. (side-eye at wallet). My buddy down south has already crashed his Dji Avata and printed a new sub-frame and restored it to flying duty.
Here's something to do while your next print job is going;
Ian RuhterIan Ruhter | Silver & Light
Ian Ruhter created the world's largest wet plate collodion cameras to make photographs in a way that has never been seen before.www.ianruhter.com
Ian Ruhter is to wet plate what Clavin Grier is to carbon transfer printing. admittedly, Calvin throws a lot more "tech" at his workflow, but I would call them both at or near the apex of the respective crafts.
...I also need to start making some solid decisions on the head that will go on this thing...and that's a whole new ball of wax.
You might think about working with Juergen Heiland on that. I have a 23CIII that he and I custom-configured with his LED light source more than a decade ago, before he started making direct-fit products for that enlarger. It was a very satisfying collaboration.
Another thing you might consider is offering a kit to accomplish this conversion. Like you, I print small. My LPL-4500II sits in boxes in a closet, and needs to be assembled/disassembled on those occasions when I summon the motivation to enlarge 4x5. I'd be interested in converting the Beseler so it wouldn't require so much effort to make an 8x10 from 4x5 negatives. Could be a lucrative business for you.
I am reading this with considerable interest, as I have my own 4x5 to 8x10 conversion in play. Different approach/needs, though. Yours seems much more ambitious, but well thought out.
The old (front strut) M45 enlargers have a hook to fit over the torsion housing for horizontal projection. That went away when the later models came in - I've never used it. I have done horizontal using 35mm and medium format once or twice, but I would not miss it.
I am aiming for 20x16 prints on the (dropped) baseboard for mine. I think that's fine for my purposes, but I suppose a larger option would be nice...
FDM filament is odd. The construction in strands melted together is something only a materials science major could loveI wondered which filament (easily available and printable) had the most stiffness, and from what I can dig up it may be the enhanced PLA types. Carbon fiber infused filament has a lot of strength under tension, and polycarbonate seems to do well in compression and heat. Over-designing your plate into a ']' form, possibly embedding steel rods (something I have done to reduce flex), or defining very small through holes to get extra walls through the body of the part can work.
I can't be sure from the photographs, but could you make the 3d printed part wider that the metal carriage to hold more stiffening, and is there scope for clamps to hold the part in place?
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