FPP 4x5 Film Developing Reel

[Andrew O'Neill]

I thought I'd give this 3D printed reel a go...

 

[Donald Qualls]

So that needs a liter to cover what, up to six sheets? I can get a Yankee Agitank for less, and it will cover up to 12 sheets with 1.65 liters.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

So that needs a liter to cover what, up to six sheets? I can get a Yankee Agitank for less, and it will cover up to 12 sheets with 1.65 liters.

Yes, 1 litre. It's a set up that I may use for semi-stand... only if I can solve the scratching issue.
The Yankee Agitank looks interesting... Not only can it take 12 4x5 sheets, but it can be adjusted to take smaller sizes. I'll look into it when I get back from Japan.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Not only can it take 12 4x5 sheets, but it can be adjusted to take smaller sizes.

Yep, I had 9x12 as well when I bought the tank, and now I have 2x3 (Century Graphic and two Grafmatics). Sure wish I could get color in 2x3 size, I'd have a lot more confidence starting color sheet film processing when it doesn't cost $10 a sheet...

 

[Sirius Glass]

So you loaded developed film on the reel, developed them again, and now the film has scratches? Nice video but it seemed vague that removed the developed film and replaced it with exposed undeveloped film.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

So you loaded developed film on the reel, developed them again, and now the film has scratches? Nice video but it seemed vague that removed the developed film and replaced it with exposed undeveloped film.

?
In the video I practice loading with old, processed sheet film.. which I believe I said I was going to do, then in the dark...which I couldn't share with you for obvious reasons ... I loaded it with film that I exposed in the field... Sadly, three of the six had scratches in the same spot. It will be easy to pinpoint the problem...

 

[Donald Qualls]

three of the six had scratches in the same spot.

And this will likely always be a problem with 3D printed equipment -- each print can have defects unique to itself.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

And this will likely always be a problem with 3D printed equipment -- each print can have defects unique to itself.

Agreed. And one cannot really know if those defects exists until tested. Makes one weary of buying 3D printed gear for film processing... $60US is a lot of money to flush down the toilet! At least they could have run some emery cloth over it at that price!

 

[Donald Qualls]

At least they could have run some emery cloth over it at that price!

Unfortunately, most of the plastics that lend well to FDM printing don't sand at all well -- better to either print in ABS and acetone smooth or accept the need to inspect and hand scrape problem locations. Filler smoothing works well with PLA, haven't seen much about it for PETG or TPU. Pretty sure it won't adhere well on nylon.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Unfortunately, most of the plastics that lend well to FDM printing don't sand at all well -- better to either print in ABS and acetone smooth or accept the need to inspect and hand scrape problem locations. Filler smoothing works well with PLA, haven't seen much about it for PETG or TPU. Pretty sure it won't adhere well on nylon.

Are you saying that acetone will smooth out ABS?

 

[grahamp]

Yes, acetone will do it. It is usually done as vapour in a semi-closed container at ambient temperature outdoors. Acetone is flammable. It only works with ABS, though. Acetone smoothing will not only smooth the surface, if should seal it. But - too much and a thin print can just flop. You also can't touch the piece until the acetone has evaporated off and hardened up. I think the Matterhackers site has a decent description on how to do it.

It is about the only reason ABS has not been fully replaced with PETG.

I just finished a sheet spiral for 2.25x3.25 sheets. I want to test it to make sure the spacing of the halves is right before I vapour it. At the moment I can separate the halves and re-cement them. Once the acetone gets in there, it is set for good.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Yes, acetone will do it. It is usually done as vapour in a semi-closed container at ambient temperature outdoors. Acetone is flammable. It only works with ABS, though. Acetone smoothing will not only smooth the surface, if should seal it. But - too much and a thin print can just flop. You also can't touch the piece until the acetone has evaporated off and hardened up. I think the Matterhackers site has a decent description on how to do it.

It is about the only reason ABS has not been fully replaced with PETG.

I just finished a sheet spiral for 2.25x3.25 sheets. I want to test it to make sure the spacing of the halves is right before I vapour it. At the moment I can separate the halves and re-cement them. Once the acetone gets in there, it is set for good.

Thank you!

 

[Donald Qualls]

Good description of acetone smoothing. There's also a special filament that smooths with isopropanol vapor, but they also sell a smoothing chamber for that that raises the vapor level above what you'd get at ambient conditions.

 

[Joel_L]

I have 3d printed a few 4x5 reels, this one has worked well for me,

4x5 Sheet Film Reel for Daylight Developing Tanks by CrazyMonkeyBen

This film reel holds 6 sheets of 4x5 film for developing in a daylight processing tank. It has been tested in a Jobo 1526 tank, but should work in most tanks which can hold at least 3 35mm reels and have a 1" center core.

www.thingiverse.com

I initially bought one of the century reels and it never worked well for me doing rotary processing on my Jobo. The sprue in the middle of the reel left a dark streak on my film.

The white one I printed on an FDM printer using ABS, I didn't do anything to smooth it, it pretty much just worked for me.

The grey one I just printed on my resin printer. Came out much smoother as expected. I have not tried it yet but it looks good. I need to test its chemical resistance.

 

[MCB18]

I have 3d printed a few 4x5 reels, this one has worked well for me,

4x5 Sheet Film Reel for Daylight Developing Tanks by CrazyMonkeyBen

This film reel holds 6 sheets of 4x5 film for developing in a daylight processing tank. It has been tested in a Jobo 1526 tank, but should work in most tanks which can hold at least 3 35mm reels and have a 1" center core.

www.thingiverse.com

I initially bought one of the century reels and it never worked well for me doing rotary processing on my Jobo. The sprue in the middle of the reel left a dark streak on my film.

The white one I printed on an FDM printer using ABS, I didn't do anything to smooth it, it pretty much just worked for me.

The grey one I just printed on my resin printer. Came out much smoother as expected. I have not tried it yet but it looks good. I need to test its chemical resistance.

View attachment 343759View attachment 343760

Could this be made to work with 3x4 film?

 

[Philippe-Georges]

Much more costly but very good working (and trustworthy) is the JOBO 2500 series tank system, and you need a specific loader to load 6 sheets per reel and more than 1l chemicals to fill the tank if you process by not rotating...

It takes 9x12 cm sheets too, but then one needs specific accessories for the reel and loader...

 

[Tim Stapp]

Much more costly but very good working (and trustworthy) is the JOBO 2500 series tank system, and you need a specific loader to load 6 sheets per reel and more than 1l chemicals to fill the tank if you process by not rotating...

It takes 9x12 cm sheets too, but then one needs specific accessories for the reel and loader...

You don't necessarily need JOBO's special loading device. I've successfully loaded six sheets in the 2509n reel multiple times. My biggest issue is getting the wings seated properly in the dark.

It does take practice, however. I've enough "practice sheets" from screw ups that I save for just such thing

 

[SodaAnt]

My biggest issue is getting the wings seated properly in the dark.

A $50 toy IR goggle would help with this.

 

[Tim Stapp]

Interesting!

 

[Philippe-Georges]

You don't necessarily need JOBO's special loading device. I've successfully loaded six sheets in the 2509n reel multiple times. My biggest issue is getting the wings seated properly in the dark.

It does take practice, however. I've enough "practice sheets" from screw ups that I save for just such thing

I had the same issue in the beginning till I realised that with a little practicing, a little 'organising' and some feeling of the finger tips could solve this.
If you put the 'wings', which are the black parts that prevent the sheets from dislodging from the reels, in the right position (the middle rib down) next of each other on the bench. Then, in the dark ofcourse, after loading the sheets, you carefully feel where the little hooks are on the reel where the slot, at both ends of the wings's rib, have to click in, when you push the 'wings' in these and hear the clicking then you are good. Then carefully pull on the wings and these don't move, you can go ahead with processing.

I know, it sounds rather complex (and my English isn't good enough), but, as you said, with some practicing it wil work (as a charm)...

No need for an IR viewer then, although I have one but never used it for that purpose (it's so heavy on the head)...

 

[mshchem]

A $50 toy IR goggle would help with this.

These goggles are great. I'm 66 (can't believe that) loss of feeling in my fingers. They are a bit of a pain. I use them most all the time for loading Jobo reels. There's no way I could put on those wings without the goggles

 

[Tony-S]

I have a Yankee tank. It’s a bit of a pain to use. I’m sticking the taco method with my Patterson tank.