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FP4 and Kodak Fixer

MIT. 25:35

MIT. 25:35

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JRoosa

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35mm
I want to try some FP4+ and bought 2 rolls of 35mm. I'm hesitant to use up the last of my bulk roll of Plus-X, mostly out of sentimentality since it is a little fogged from age and poor storage.

I have several bags of Kodak Fixer, and I'm not really interested in adding another set of bottles to my cabinet with a non-hardening fixer, although a bottle of Ilford rapid fixer wouldn't break the bank.

Ilford seems to say that the hardener is a problem, but then just makes the suggestion of longer fix/wash similar to the Kodak data sheets.

Has anybody had bad results with the Kodak Fixer and FP4+?

-J.
 
Tons of good results -- mostly Kodak Rapid Fix (with hardener. Part B, for roll film, and usually not with sheet film...or a reduced amount). Films often incorperate a hardener in them, thus one of the reasons for Ilford's lack of need of a hardener.
 
If you use a hardened fixer with Plusx or FP4+ you need to wash for longer for archival permanence.

They both need the same wash cycle.
 
Fixation is not specific to a particular film as development can be. You can mix things up. Ilford film with Kodak fixer or Kodak film with Ilford fixer. Most modern emulsions are prehardened therefor hardening fixers are less important today. As Xmas points out hardening fixers are harder to wash out of films and papers.
 
I always thought it didn't matter since chemistry is chemistry, but the FP4 data sheet is a little funny about it.

I think they are trying to say don't put hardener in their non hardening fix because it's not needed and it will mess up the fix.

Good to hear the stuff I have will work fine.

Thanks!

J.
 
Ilford instruction sheet

Ilford's instruction sheet means to say you can add hardener if you choose, but only to Hypam Rapid Fixer, not their other rapid fixes due to slight chemical differences. Hardener will greatly increase your wash times as already mentioned and you probably should use HCA. Fixer brands are interchangeable, the only differences being with or without hardener and some time differences. Kodak Fixer in powder form is not rapid fix and you should fix for 10 minutes, or three times (not two) the clearing time (as per Ilford Monochrome Darkroom Practice book).
 
I have bag of bags of Kodak fixer. I'm using it for all b/w films I have tried so far. Ilford films included.
i have "bad" results with 120 FP4, all I have to do is to refix the film :smile:
 
I want to try some FP4+ and bought 2 rolls of 35mm. I'm hesitant to use up the last of my bulk roll of Plus-X, mostly out of sentimentality since it is a little fogged from age and poor storage.

I have several bags of Kodak Fixer, and I'm not really interested in adding another set of bottles to my cabinet with a non-hardening fixer, although a bottle of Ilford rapid fixer wouldn't break the bank.

Ilford seems to say that the hardener is a problem, but then just makes the suggestion of longer fix/wash similar to the Kodak data sheets.

Has anybody had bad results with the Kodak Fixer and FP4+?

-J.

You can use Kodak fixer with Ilford films without hesitationbut do a clip test with the leader first to determinclearing time;double that and you've got your fixing time. I still recommend two-bath fixing and HCA, followed by a 10 minute wash in slowly running water.:whistling:
 
Ilford's instruction sheet means to say you can add hardener if you choose, but only to Hypam Rapid Fixer, not their other rapid fixes due to slight chemical differences. Hardener will greatly increase your wash times as already mentioned and you probably should use HCA. Fixer brands are interchangeable, the only differences being with or without hardener and some time differences. Kodak Fixer in powder form is not rapid fix and you should fix for 10 minutes, or three times (not two) the clearing time (as per Ilford Monochrome Darkroom Practice book).

I never heard about three-bath fixing. Where is that coming from?:laugh:
 
Hardener is not a problem, but totally unnecessary with most of today's films.
 
I never heard about three-bath fixing. Where is that coming from?:laugh:

I think he meant fix for three times as long as the time it takes to clear, not fix in three different baths.
 
I never heard about three-bath fixing. Where is that coming from?:laugh:

I meant fix for three times the clearing time as opposed to the usual two. This was explained in Ilford Monochrome Darkroom Practice, I don't know if it is still in print. I have a 1990's edition. The explanation was that modern films have more silver iodide so they take longer to fix. Anchell and Troop's Darkroom Cookbook also mentions this.
 
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