FP4 and Jobo machine

[veke]

Hi! Can´t find a chart for the following: Ilford FP4 roll film, Jobo machine, 24 Celsius. What developing time ( or a suitable link to some chart) would you suggest?

 

[ic-racer]

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006216115141521.pdf

Use those times with a prewash to slow development. If you don't use a prewash (I don't) then knock off 20% from those times, as it indicates the Jobo manual. Do you have the manual?

 

[Dwayne Martin]

I develop that combo all the time. Here is what I do.
d76 1:1 normal time for me is 8 minutes at 20c
i agitate on the fast speed for the first 60 sec then I do the rest on the slow speed.
i do a five minute wash first.
other apugers will likely have different procedures but that is mine.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

You don't mention what developer you're using. I do FP4+ in Pyrocat HD for 11 minutes at 24c, but I'm usually processing for alt process printing. If you're looking to make enlargements and want to baseline your prints at grade 2, then I'd cut that back down to somewhere in the 9:30-10:00 range.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Using XTOL and replenished XTOL the times are listed below. DO NOT PREWASH FILM WHEN USING XTOL PER KODAK & JOBO

 

[Mick Fagan]

You don’t mention whether you are using a condenser or diffused enlarger, knowing what type of enlarger you will be using does make a difference.

Regardless, what I do with FP4+ will give you a reference point. I use both sheet and roll FP4+, 4x5” and 135 that is.

I use a CPE2 with lift and two temperatures, autumn, winter and spring one temperature with summer another temperature. I develop my negatives for enlarging on a diffused light source with a colour head, generally speaking, my end point is to have printable negatives swinging either side of grade 2½.

Meaning that I get prints that work for me and rarely do I need to change the head below grade 2 or above grade 3¾ to get more than acceptable results.

I develop all of my film using the low speed, I do not use a pre-rinse, I always use a 2% stop bath for 30 seconds, this ensures developing stops when I finish developing, consistency is great.

FP4+, D76 1:1 at 24ºC, 13’0”

As a matter of interest, I cook that film for 18’30” during autumn, winter and spring when developing at 20ºC

Mick.

 

[veke]

Thank You, sirs. You know everything.
My big fault, the developer is ID-11. For that, if possible, the time chart. D-76 also available but I would try with Ilford´s own ID-11. I don´t have the JObo manual, unfortunately.

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

You don’t mention whether you are using a condenser or diffused enlarger, knowing what type of enlarger you will be using does make a difference.

Regardless, what I do with FP4+ will give you a reference point. I use both sheet and roll FP4+, 4x5” and 135 that is.

I use a CPE2 with lift and two temperatures, autumn, winter and spring one temperature with summer another temperature. I develop my negatives for enlarging on a diffused light source with a colour head, generally speaking, my end point is to have printable negatives swinging either side of grade 2½.

Meaning that I get prints that work for me and rarely do I need to change the head below grade 2 or above grade 3¾ to get more than acceptable results.

I develop all of my film using the low speed, I do not use a pre-rinse, I always use a 2% stop bath for 30 seconds, this ensures developing stops when I finish developing, consistency is great.

FP4+, D76 1:1 at 24ºC, 13’0”

As a matter of interest, I cook that film for 18’30” during autumn, winter and spring when developing at 20ºC

Mick.

Some people will read this and say your times are far too long even though it's what gives you results that work for you.

 

[Mick Fagan]

Thank You, sirs. You know everything.
My big fault, the developer is ID-11. For that, if possible, the time chart. D-76 also available but I would try with Ilford´s own ID-11. I don´t have the JObo manual, unfortunately.

Ilford's ID-11 is virtually identical to Kodak's D76, you can use any times for D76 that you may have found.

Please be aware that anything we suggest and whatever you may have found, should be used as a starting reference point. You will need to develop your own film to see just where you are at.

Mick.

 

[veke]

Mick; exactly so. But films have some important shots so it would be great to get reasonable results to start with. Later on make some adjustments. It seems that about 12 minutes might give reasonable negatives but I must study a little more....

 

[Doc W]

veke, shoot a test roll. Pick something that has a normal contrast range but is not important (a garage door always works well!). Cut the film up into 4-5 pieces and start with any of the recommended combinations of developer and time. Repeat this until you get the contrast range you want. You can do this in an afternoon. It is not that difficult. There is a lot written on how to do proper testing so I won't go into elaborate detail but you should learn how to do a proper proof to control the results. If you don't know how, let us know and we will suggest about twelve different ways.

 

[veke]

Doc W: thank you, a good piece of advice. With Jobo I develop 6 rolls at a time, quite costly to do test shots that way. I´ve read that if you do developing in a tank manually and then with a Jobo you should reduce 15 per cent of developing time in Jobo.
EDIT: one thing I have forgotten earlier; I will dilute the developer 1:3, this way the time (perhaps) is not that critical compared with 1:1.

 

[Doc W]

Doc W: thank you, a good piece of advice. With Jobo I develop 6 rolls at a time, quite costly to do test shots that way. I´ve read that if you do developing in a tank manually and then with a Jobo you should reduce 15 per cent of developing time in Jobo.
EDIT: one thing I have forgotten earlier; I will dilute the developer 1:3, this way the time (perhaps) is not that critical compared with 1:1.

I develop FP4 in 8x10 sheets in my Jobo with HC-110. For normal contrast (N) is use dilution E for 7'15" at 20C/68F. I also use a pre-rinse (3 minutes) which is recommended by Jobo. Jobo also recommends no less than 5 minutes for development time. Rotary processing can really shorten development time and I find that the pre-rinse helps to extend it somewhat so that I am above 5 minutes.