Forte Paper - still good?

[George Collier]

I am about to order a box of 16x20 Forte Fiber Polygrade V. Does anyone know if the post-receivership paper is as good as the stuff on the market last spring? I remember some threads about differences, and did a search for threads on this yesterday, but can't find anything definitive.
Also, is there a seller (in the US) that would be honest (or informed) about answering that question?

 

[Richard Wasserman]

I've used both with excellent results and can't see any difference. You might try contacting J&C Photo, they sell this paper as PV-G www.jandcphotography.com

Richard Wasserman

 

[Foto Ludens]

George,

I remember reading that the post receivership differences were due to the products being sold too soon after manufactured (i.e. they did not age enough). If that was truly the case, this should not be an issue any longer. JandC would know, either way. And they should have a better price than the Forte branded stuff (same product, though).

I use JandC/Forte Polywarmtone, but I can't remember if I bought my last couple of boxes before or after the receivership.

André

 

[wildbill]

freestyle photo just started carrying .edu stuff again. it's forte polygrade and abailable in 16x20.
i've been using this stuff for about year and like it very much but i haven't compared it too the old .edu. the box is the same except for a new label that says " made in Hungary".

 

[frednewman]

Hi George - I had tested and done an article on the available VC papers for Photo Techniques and the Forte Polygrade V looked good to me. Check out the article

Fred Newman

 

[George Collier]

Thank you all for your replies. I have ordered some Forte (Arista.edu) and some Kentmere both fiber neutral. I will feed back on comparison (assuming I remember).

 

[john c]

fred, i am printing with the new batch of forte pw and have been getting a distinct olive green caste. i used agfa multicontrast (vv green), neutol (green), and finally dektol which was great (minimal but some green). is it just the developer plus a particularly dodgy batch?

yours john c

ps am looking for a deep eggplanty black brown, if you know what i mean

 

[Wayne]

The old Forte PolyWarmtone emulsion appears identical to that currently sold by Jand C,( and presumably by Forte as well). I dont think the JandC paper base is the same though. It looks identical but curls more than the pre-receivership Forte paper. I havent bought any of the Forte branded paper post receivership.



Wayne

 

[jeroldharter]

I never liked the green cast either. I think it goes away with selenium toning and would be more to your liking.

 

[john c]

thankis jerold

will selenium tone v soon.
what developer were you using by the way?

 

[tony lockerbie]

The last time I used Poly warmtone I developed it in Agfa Neutol WA and ended up with strange stains on the prints. I assumed that the paper was faulty, but later tried processing in D72 with no problems at all. So I tried other soups i.e Ansco 130, Ilford multigrade, bromophen etc and all were ok. Strange, but it was just the Neutol WA that caused the problems, and yes I tried another bottle! I found that developing Forte warmtone in the multigrade dev. gave much cooler tones with more contrast. Any warmtone dev, and I usually use Ansco 130, gives a slightly green tone to this paper but can easily be neutralized by light selenium toning. Has anyone out there tried Amidol on this paper? I haven't used it for a while due to the huge cost.

 

[Jim Chinn]

I have not bought any of the new batch as I am still working with stuff bought prior to the shutdown. But if the new is like the old, you really need to make sure you get the fixer washed out well before toning with selenium. The old paper would stain quite easily, probably due to the same aspects of the formula that allows it to tone so easily.

 

[Richard Wasserman]

Jim,

I always go directly from the fix into the selenium toner without washing. I have been using Forte for years, both the old and the new, and never had a stain. What fix are you using? I used TF-4 and now use Ryuji Suzuki's Neutral Fix with equal success.

Richard Wasserman

 

[fwp]

I am about to order a box of 16x20 Forte Fiber Polygrade V. Does anyone know if the post-receivership paper is as good as the stuff on the market last spring? I remember some threads about differences, and did a search for threads on this yesterday, but can't find anything definitive.
Also, is there a seller (in the US) that would be honest (or informed) about answering that question?

I started using Forte last fall just as it started coming out of recievership. After getting used to it I've switched to it full time from Oriental.

 

[James Glaze]

I have found Freestyle to be vary forthcoming. Talk to Erik at extension 109. They are now receiving their Forte paper directly from the Forte factory----hence the new white box. Formulations are supposed to be the same but due to quality control problems some variations from box to box and even within a box can be expected. I am now using the warmtone with both Dectol and Agfa Neutol WA with quit good results.

 

[john c]

I have not bought any of the new batch as I am still working with stuff bought prior to the shutdown. But if the new is like the old, you really need to make sure you get the fixer washed out well before toning with selenium. The old paper would stain quite easily, probably due to the same aspects of the formula that allows it to tone so easily.

By stain do you mean the paper base as well as the emulsion?
last week i printed forte pw in agfa neutol then selenium toned for 2 minutes and when they had dried i found the paper base had a weird stain as if there had been some sort of contamination.
as i work in a school darkroom the contamination could have been at any stage even tho i tried to clean all trays before usage.
i also believe it could have been the fixer.

by the way the batch of forte pw i am using does lose its green cast with toning. i also think it might be settling down. aging.

 

[kjsphoto]

Forte is beautiful paper. When using Sel toner about 1:10 or greater it removes the green cast to a neutral color. If you go to far it turns warm. Really nice paper. Check out freestyle they carry it under the Arista.EDU label. Just wonderful paper.

 

[James Glaze]

I am using Forte Warmtone and also occasionally see a stain on the base but no stain on the print. With both Dectol and Agfa Neutol WA I get the olive cast but this is removed with 1 to 2 minutes in selenium at 1:10 at 68 degrees. The last box of Forte Warmtone was purchased at Freestyle. It came in a new "white" box. Freestyle informed me that the formulation was identical to the older version in the gold box but, for what it is worth, I have not seen evidence of stain on the base with papers from this box

 

[Ian Grant]

I posted on the various threads about old & new (post recievership) papers.

Just been printing tonight and the new stocks just as good as the old, leave on your shelf a while the green tinge goes and its as good as usual.

Forte papers are excellent they have great depth of shadow detail unlike Ilford, and great highlights, unlike Agfa. Yes we can make other papers behave in a similar manner but not with straight processing.

Lets face it Forte papers should be good they eminate from a former Kodak plant, sold off before the Kodak company lost its way in the world.

Ian

 

[Gary Holliday]

I would really like to purchase this paper, but I have no time for selenium toning. How long would this paper take to age?

I would like to try "split tone" developing in Neutol WA and the coldtone Eukobrom. Am I likely to get this horrible olive green cast?

 

[john c]

I am using Forte Warmtone and also occasionally see a stain on the base but no stain on the print. With both Dectol and Agfa Neutol WA I get the olive cast but this is removed with 1 to 2 minutes in selenium at 1:10 at 68 degrees. The last box of Forte Warmtone was purchased at Freestyle. It came in a new "white" box. Freestyle informed me that the formulation was identical to the older version in the gold box but, for what it is worth, I have not seen evidence of stain on the base with papers from this box

james thanks again. the stain you see sounds similar to what i have found. the emulsion seems fine. i am worried that it might be a contamination, in which case the print cannot be exhibited nor can it be sold. what do you think?

 

[Early Riser]

My use of Forte VC paper last year yielded prints with great tonality but a few problems. The surface of the paper had uneven gloss, sort of a blotchy surface affect. Also the paper appeared deep yellow during after fixing, to the extent that you could not judge tonal values until the yellow cleared, which took about 1/2 hour of washing. Anyone encounter similar problems?

 

[Jim Chinn]

The staining I have seen from lack of proper washing is apparent in highlights and any white border. Usually a mottled or splotchy darkening. I do know that it was not a problem with the emulsion because paper properly washed from the same box did not exhibit the problem.

 

[Jeanne]

by the way the batch of forte pw i am using does lose its green cast with toning. i also think it might be settling down. aging.

Ah, you know I thought I was losing my mind -- I use Fortezo and could not figure out why all of a sudden last winter I started getting an olive cast. Glad to know it's not me, and would love to know what people think the "ripening" time will be.

 

[john c]

Ah, you know I thought I was losing my mind -- I use Fortezo and could not figure out why all of a sudden last winter I started getting an olive cast. Glad to know it's not me, and would love to know what people think the "ripening" time will be.

SORRY i said i think the paper might be settling down. i have been looking so hard at the prints that i have lost all perspective. i believe this to be the case but i want also to hear from other people with similar problem.