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Fomapan R100

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David A. Goldfarb

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The question isn't really answerable without knowing how you're going to process the film, and even then, it's best to run your own tests using your own system of metering and equipment.

If you're shooting at the box speed and not getting enough shadow detail based on inspection of the negatives directly, then try increasing exposure (reduce the film speed setting on your meter).

There are various approaches to exposure and development. I recommend Ansel Adams' book, _The Negative_.
 

frdrx

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I expose Fomapan R exactly the same way as Provia 100F (at 100 ISO, that is), and the exposures are good with both films. But I do my own processing of Fomapan, which might be different to anyone else's albeit I follow the instructions to the letter. You have to try it and see, as with any film you aren't familiar with.
 

dr5chrome

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R100

R100 is designed to be a B&W positive. It is an old cine B&W emulsion with a remarkable old-style quality. We are the only official processors of this film type, on a lab level http://www.dr5.com/fomar.html .
Foma sells a kit but it is only available in Europe. The Kodak and Formulary kit do not work very well with this film.

It is possible to process this film as a negative. i would use pyro or D23.
As a positive i would shoot it @ 160 normal. Do not shoot it at 50iso!
its Ei range is 100~400 iso.

regards

dw

www.blackandwhiteslide.com



Should I just shoot this at 100ISO, or will I get better results at 50 or slower speeds?

I am still re-discovering film, so please forgive me if this is a stupid questions.
 

freddiebotham

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R100 is designed to be a B&W positive. It is an old cine B&W emulsion with a remarkable old-style quality. We are the only official processors of this film type, on a lab level http://www.dr5.com/fomar.html .
Foma sells a kit but it is only available in Europe. The Kodak and Formulary kit do not work very well with this film.

It is possible to process this film as a negative. i would use pyro or D23.
As a positive i would shoot it @ 160 normal. Do not shoot it at 50iso!
its Ei range is 100~400 iso.

regards

dw

www.blackandwhiteslide.com

I am desperate to learn more about processing this film as a negative. I am going to be shooting r100 in standard 8mm format and ideally I'd like to develop it as negative. Do you have developing times with pyro or D23? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot.
 

rjr

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It is possible to process this film as a negative.

I am just wondering how you are going to remove the AHU backing of yellow colloid silver which will be retaines when developing the film as a negative. How do you do it?
 

petepictures

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R100

R100 is designed to be a B&W positive. It is an old cine B&W emulsion with a remarkable old-style quality. We are the only official processors of this film type, on a lab level http://www.dr5.com/fomar.html .
Foma sells a kit but it is only available in Europe. The Kodak and Formulary kit do not work very well with this film.

It is possible to process this film as a negative. i would use pyro or D23.
As a positive i would shoot it @ 160 normal. Do not shoot it at 50iso!
its Ei range is 100~400 iso.

regards

dw

www.blackandwhiteslide.com
I am also very keen to process it as a negative in the meantime. I am shooting it in Double Super8mm format.
 

flavio81

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I thought it was not possible to process as negative. I guess, then, that it's not possible to do it... with the conventional negative process.

So the idea is that one removes or clears the (silver?) antihalation coating without removing the (metallic silver) negative image, i guess.
 

Gerald C Koch

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The box speed for R100 reflects its use as reversal processed not used as a negative. Usually the two speeds are not the same.
 

Ricardo Miranda

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Fomapan 100R is back available in 135 format.
 

petepictures

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I thought it was not possible to process as negative. I guess, then, that it's not possible to do it... with the conventional negative process.

So the idea is that one removes or clears the (silver?) antihalation coating without removing the (metallic silver) negative image, i guess.
Exactly, I tried to bleach it , before fixing , but it does bleach some of the highlights.
 
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