Fomapan 200 didn't develop - any ideas why?

[ColColt]

Never had a shutter problem with a rangefinder before...unless I left the lens cap on and that's happened more times than one. The only other time I've gotten nothing on negatives was when I inadvertently poured in the fixer first. You won't do that but once. I labeled every container after that little episode back in the early days. If any image at all appears, as you show, I hope it's an easy fix on the shutter.

 

[walliswizard]

Well it's well and truly jammed now so it's gone back to the dealer as of this morning. Shutter might be as old as the camera for all I know (43 and a bit years) so y'know, understandable.

Only other time I have screwed a film up so far was when I absent-mindedly unscrewed the top off the patterson tank rather than remove the smaller lid. Muppet....

 

[mnemosyne]

The datasheet doesn't mention pre-washing: http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-200
I wouldn't have developed it in D-76. Next time, I'll suggest you use Fomadon Excel, P or R09.

What is wrong with D-76 and Fomapan 200? Foma states development times for D-76. And according to Foma, one of your suggestions, Fomdaon P, is the Foma equivalent of D-76/ID-11.

 

[ozphoto]

The datasheet doesn't mention pre-washing: http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-200
I wouldn't have developed it in D-76. Next time, I'll suggest you use Fomadon Excel, P or R09.
Or Ilford equivalents such as Ilford DD-X.

I've used D76 to develop Fomapan with no obvious problems at all (200 & 400). I'd also like to know your reasoning for this statement - repeated bad experiences/results or something else?

 

[R.Gould]

The datasheet doesn't mention pre-washing: http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-200
I wouldn't have developed it in D-76. Next time, I'll suggest you use Fomadon Excel, P or R09.
Or Ilford equivalents such as Ilford DD-X.
With any of the Foma films you don't need a stop bath. Two changes of water is all you need.
Even with fresh rapid fixer, I would fix Fomadon 200 for at least 5-6 minutes.
F200 is a mixed technology film and requires longer fixing.
Also longer washing times are required.
With a rapid fixer based in ammonium you don't need a hypo clear.

Unless you used bulk roll, there should be edge markings.
A picture of a negative strip would clarify the matter.

Nothing wrong with developing Fomapan 200 in D78,

The datasheet doesn't mention pre-washing: http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-200
I wouldn't have developed it in D-76. Next time, I'll suggest you use Fomadon Excel, P or R09.
Or Ilford equivalents such as Ilford DD-X.
With any of the Foma films you don't need a stop bath. Two changes of water is all you need.
Even with fresh rapid fixer, I would fix Fomadon 200 for at least 5-6 minutes.
F200 is a mixed technology film and requires longer fixing.
Also longer washing times are required.
With a rapid fixer based in ammonium you don't need a hypo clear.

Unless you used bulk roll, there should be edge markings.
A picture of a negative strip would clarify the matter.

There is nothing wrong with using d76 with Fomapan 200, in fact Foma list is with the suggested time, I have ofteb developed the 200 in D76 stock, and it is fine nice negatives, as far as stop bath, again Foma say to use a stop bath, and as far as fixing, 3 minutes in a rapid fixer is all you need, and 20 min wah again is fine, 30 min in colder water, This is my method and it works fine for both the 200 and 400, the only films I ever use,
Richard

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

I've used D76 to develop Fomapan with no obvious problems at all (200 & 400). I'd also like to know your reasoning for this statement - repeated bad experiences/results or something else?

No.
It has to do with Fomapan 200 which is a mixed technology film, i.e. it has new technology silver halide grain and so a new technology developer like Fomadon Excel, Ilford DD-X or even Koda Xtol that are formulated for those films is recommended.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Nothing wrong with developing Fomapan 200 in D78,

There is nothing wrong with using d76 with Fomapan 200, in fact Foma list is with the suggested time, I have ofteb developed the 200 in D76 stock, and it is fine nice negatives, as far as stop bath, again Foma say to use a stop bath, and as far as fixing, 3 minutes in a rapid fixer is all you need, and 20 min wah again is fine, 30 min in colder water, This is my method and it works fine for both the 200 and 400, the only films I ever use,
Richard

No, there's nothing wrong with D76. I've used Fomadon P which is a D76d type developer.
This is what Foma says about a stop bath:

the film is recommended to be shortly rinsed in distilled water or dipped in a 2 % acetid acid solution for 10 seconds.

There is an "or" in there. It is very different from "Foma say to use a stop bath" than "you don't need a stop bath".
It is cheaper to just rinse in distilled water or even plain water as I do.

Mixed technology films like Fomapan 200 require longer fixing times.
3 minutes might be about right with freshly diluted fixer, but I would give an extra minute or 2.
Even with negatives that look ok, have a look at the black leader: are they entirely and uniformly black? If you see less dense parts especially like streaks from the sprocket rolls, than you didn't fix long enough.
The same goes for the CCG films like Delta or T-grain like T-Max.
They all require longer fixing.

 

[R.Gould]

No, there's nothing wrong with D76. I've used Fomadon P which is a D76d type developer.
This is what Foma says about a stop bath:

There is an "or" in there. It is very different from "Foma say to use a stop bath" than "you don't need a stop bath".
It is cheaper to just rinse in distilled water or even plain water as I do.

Mixed technology films like Fomapan 200 require longer fixing times.
3 minutes might be about right with freshly diluted fixer, but I would give an extra minute or 2.
Even with negatives that look ok, have a look at the black leader: are they entirely and uniformly black? If you see less dense parts especially like streaks from the sprocket rolls, than you didn't fix long enough.
The same goes for the CCG films like Delta or T-grain like T-Max.
They all require longer fixing.

With 3 minutes fix the leader is uniformly black with my fixer,diluteld 1/4 Amfix, same goes for Delta, which I have used in the past, The only film that I have ever used that need longer fixing is Tmax, which requires twice as long, Foma, says at least 3 minutes in rapid fixer, ten minutes in standard fixer, yes you can use plain water as a stop and I have often doen that, you need at least 3 changes of water , invert ten times, discard, repat twice more, with two changes of water you do not get rei d of the grenn colour with 120 and the film is not stopped enough, it is better to use a stop bath.and this goes for 400 as well as 200, I have been following this regime with foma 200 and 400 for well over ten years, which is the length of time I have been using foma films exclusively, as far as fixing I mix 500ml use 8 times then disc ard, and the last film is as well fixed as the first,

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Thanks Richard. I've used Amfix.
I don't use 120. If I did, I had to reload the camera every hour... or less.

 

[Xmas]

A capping shutter is a typical Leica (or clone) focal plane shutter problem. Everyone copied the Barnack shutter with various enhancements... post WWII.

Too long in storage will do it.

All the Forma films need careful handling, because they are not prehardened like Ilford or Kodak, that is no prebath, more exact tempering, dilute stop bath if you must use an acid stop, plain hypo.

You are on thin ice otherwise.

Foma200 needs as much time to clear (ie fix) as Delta 400 or Tmax 400, when you fix by inspection...

What time Foma recommend is no help!

Fixing is way more important than developer choice.

If you under fix you get bromide drag by another name, inspect carefully before hanging up to dry then refix and rewash.

 

[summicron1]

Well, dunno, perhaps I'll never know.

Bit annoying losing photos, but on to the next film and try again I guess! (

Cheers all....

could be worse -- I had finished a roll of tri-x in my stereo camera, took a roll of film out of my pocket to reload, wondered if it had been shot before, decided not.

nope. Ran the same roll through twice. Many many many double exposures, all in lovely overlapped 3-D!