The datasheet doesn't mention pre-washing: http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-200
I wouldn't have developed it in D-76. Next time, I'll suggest you use Fomadon Excel, P or R09.
The datasheet doesn't mention pre-washing: http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-200
I wouldn't have developed it in D-76. Next time, I'll suggest you use Fomadon Excel, P or R09.
Or Ilford equivalents such as Ilford DD-X.
Nothing wrong with developing Fomapan 200 in D78,The datasheet doesn't mention pre-washing: http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-200
I wouldn't have developed it in D-76. Next time, I'll suggest you use Fomadon Excel, P or R09.
Or Ilford equivalents such as Ilford DD-X.
With any of the Foma films you don't need a stop bath. Two changes of water is all you need.
Even with fresh rapid fixer, I would fix Fomadon 200 for at least 5-6 minutes.
F200 is a mixed technology film and requires longer fixing.
Also longer washing times are required.
With a rapid fixer based in ammonium you don't need a hypo clear.
Unless you used bulk roll, there should be edge markings.
A picture of a negative strip would clarify the matter.
There is nothing wrong with using d76 with Fomapan 200, in fact Foma list is with the suggested time, I have ofteb developed the 200 in D76 stock, and it is fine nice negatives, as far as stop bath, again Foma say to use a stop bath, and as far as fixing, 3 minutes in a rapid fixer is all you need, and 20 min wah again is fine, 30 min in colder water, This is my method and it works fine for both the 200 and 400, the only films I ever use,The datasheet doesn't mention pre-washing: http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-200
I wouldn't have developed it in D-76. Next time, I'll suggest you use Fomadon Excel, P or R09.
Or Ilford equivalents such as Ilford DD-X.
With any of the Foma films you don't need a stop bath. Two changes of water is all you need.
Even with fresh rapid fixer, I would fix Fomadon 200 for at least 5-6 minutes.
F200 is a mixed technology film and requires longer fixing.
Also longer washing times are required.
With a rapid fixer based in ammonium you don't need a hypo clear.
Unless you used bulk roll, there should be edge markings.
A picture of a negative strip would clarify the matter.
No.I've used D76 to develop Fomapan with no obvious problems at all (200 & 400). I'd also like to know your reasoning for this statement - repeated bad experiences/results or something else?
No, there's nothing wrong with D76. I've used Fomadon P which is a D76d type developer.Nothing wrong with developing Fomapan 200 in D78,
There is nothing wrong with using d76 with Fomapan 200, in fact Foma list is with the suggested time, I have ofteb developed the 200 in D76 stock, and it is fine nice negatives, as far as stop bath, again Foma say to use a stop bath, and as far as fixing, 3 minutes in a rapid fixer is all you need, and 20 min wah again is fine, 30 min in colder water, This is my method and it works fine for both the 200 and 400, the only films I ever use,
Richard
There is an "or" in there. It is very different from "Foma say to use a stop bath" than "you don't need a stop bath".the film is recommended to be shortly rinsed in distilled water or dipped in a 2 % acetid acid solution for 10 seconds.
With 3 minutes fix the leader is uniformly black with my fixer,diluteld 1/4 Amfix, same goes for Delta, which I have used in the past, The only film that I have ever used that need longer fixing is Tmax, which requires twice as long, Foma, says at least 3 minutes in rapid fixer, ten minutes in standard fixer, yes you can use plain water as a stop and I have often doen that, you need at least 3 changes of water , invert ten times, discard, repat twice more, with two changes of water you do not get rei d of the grenn colour with 120 and the film is not stopped enough, it is better to use a stop bath.and this goes for 400 as well as 200, I have been following this regime with foma 200 and 400 for well over ten years, which is the length of time I have been using foma films exclusively, as far as fixing I mix 500ml use 8 times then disc ard, and the last film is as well fixed as the first,No, there's nothing wrong with D76. I've used Fomadon P which is a D76d type developer.
This is what Foma says about a stop bath:
There is an "or" in there. It is very different from "Foma say to use a stop bath" than "you don't need a stop bath".
It is cheaper to just rinse in distilled water or even plain water as I do.
Mixed technology films like Fomapan 200 require longer fixing times.
3 minutes might be about right with freshly diluted fixer, but I would give an extra minute or 2.
Even with negatives that look ok, have a look at the black leader: are they entirely and uniformly black? If you see less dense parts especially like streaks from the sprocket rolls, than you didn't fix long enough.
The same goes for the CCG films like Delta or T-grain like T-Max.
They all require longer fixing.
could be worse -- I had finished a roll of tri-x in my stereo camera, took a roll of film out of my pocket to reload, wondered if it had been shot before, decided not.Well, dunno, perhaps I'll never know.
Bit annoying losing photos, but on to the next film and try again I guess!(
Cheers all....
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