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Fomapan 200 developer

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devecchi

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I bought a pack of Fomapan 200 4X5 "and I read that it should be exposed to around 125 Iso. I own D.76 and Pyrocat HD. Did anyone use them with this film with good results?
 
I've used both d76 and pyrocat with foma200. I much prefer pyrocat.
Hi koraks. What dilution, development time and agitation do you use with Pyrocat? I don't use rotation process. Thanks to you and twelvetone12 for the previous answers.
 
I bought a pack of Fomapan 200 4X5 "and I read that it should be exposed to around 125 Iso. I own D.76 and Pyrocat HD. Did anyone use them with this film with good results?

I've had nice results in 1:1 D76 with the 35mm and 4x5 versions of the film rated at 125. Also, 1:50 Rodinal gives good results at EI 100-125, but with a bit more grain.
Good luck, Paul
 
Here's an idea.
I would shoot two frames, one would go in D76 and the other would go in Pyro.

At the time I preferred a choice.
 
What dilution, development time and agitation do you use with Pyrocat?
7 minutes 1+1+100 continuous rotation for silver gelatin printing. So with inversions that would make something like 8m30. EI 125 or box speed if the shadows are not so crucial but exposure times need to be a tad shorter.
 
I've used D76 clones stock and 1:1 with good results when shot at ISO 125. I just bought additional D76 and replenisher to use with a box of Foma 400 which I will shoot at 320. Not cheap, up to around $80 a gallon but my all time fav is MCM 100, great tones with Foma films, shot at box speed.
 
A few minutes ago I loaded the chassis 2 Fomapan 4X5 200 for the first time. To the touch I felt that the emulsified part is shiny but the back slightly Matt. Is it normal or is it a flaw?
 
You did take note of the correct orientation using the notch? I always put the notch in the lower left corner with the holder lying in portrait mode in front of me. Upper right corner is of course also OK. Either way, the notch tells you which side is the emulsion.
 
You did take note of the correct orientation using the notch? I always put the notch in the lower left corner with the holder lying in portrait mode in front of me. Upper right corner is of course also OK. Either way, the notch tells you which side is the emulsion.
The orientation of the notch is correct.
 
I developed separately 4 sheets of Fomapan 200 4x5 exposed to 100 Iso in Pyrocat Hd continuous rotation, D. 76 1 + 1 in tank and D. 76 1 + 1 in tray. Development is OK but..... They all have streaks (as very thin scratches) on the emulsified part. I am sure I have handled them with all possible precautions like all the other films used in about 40 years until a month ago (Kodak and Ilford) except that they have NEVER given me similar problems. It will also be a film "delicate" but also not having the skin of the fingers of a newborn I do not even possess that of a gorilla... I contact the seller to make the product and replace it with Ilford.
 
That's odd. I have gone through several boxes of foma100, 200 and 400 and haven't gotten a single scratch. But then again, nothing ever touches the emulsion side until the negatives are being contact printed.
 
miss one last Test to do: to handle the film I will use latex or cotton gloves, which in my life I have never done with films Ilford or Kodak, it may be that Foma has an emulsion so sensitive that the only touch it with a finger the Damages. If after this the problem shows up again surely I won't be the cause, but it will be upstream.
 
... They all have streaks (as very thin scratches) on the emulsified part ...

I stopped using Fomapan 200 for the exact same problem. I used to shoot 120 roll film and every once in a while I noticed tram line scratches: very thin and absolutely straight lines running over the entire length of the roll. At first I thought it was due to my handling or the camera's handling of the film. But reviewing my film handling in the dark room and using different camera's with different inserts it became clear that these tram line scratches were already on the film. Too bad as I really like the tonality it gives when developed in a staining developer.
 
The 120 and sheet films seem to be different in terms of coating defects. 120 can suffer IMO from tiny black spots and very short (20-60um) cracks in the emulsion running longitudinally over the emulsion. I have not observed this in the 4x5 film.

@devecchi is there a chance of posting an image of the problem? That may help troubleshoot it.
 
The 120 and sheet films seem to be different in terms of coating defects. 120 can suffer IMO from tiny black spots and very short (20-60um) cracks in the emulsion running longitudinally over the emulsion. I have not observed this in the 4x5 film.

@devecchi is there a chance of posting an image of the problem? That may help troubleshoot it.
Koraks, now we see the effect.... Gloves. Let's hope it's the solution.
 
I tried two more sheets, handling them with gloves: same result. I also tried to print a particular magnified the sky and in horror I noticed that the scratches are much more numerous than those I saw on the negative with the magnifying glass: it seems that on the emulsion has walked a... cat :mad: As soon as I can post the result, in any case I make the material to the sender and never more Fomapan 200.
 
Koraks, now we see the effect.... Gloves. Let's hope it's the solution.
I'm a bit confused; I can't see it. But if it's OK if you don't feel like looking into it. All I know is I haven't seen anything like you describe on F200 4x5, but it is of course possible that you ran into a problem that I evaded just by chance.
 
It's beautiful film in Pyrocat. I've shot several hundred sheets of it in 5x7, exposed at 100, developed in Pyrocat HD 1:1:100. It's about 8 minutes development time.
I also tried with Pyrocat HD and I really like it, but I do not want to risk more throw the job for a defect that is not caused by me. I will have happened in the defective lot but no one can assure that the next will be different.
 
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