Fomapan 100 overexposed ~3stops. Times for Rodinal / D-76?

[afrank]

I was testing for light leaks my new 4x5 and screwed up the test film by not setting up the fstop back to the desired exposured. It was wide open.
I rated the film at iso 100, 1/100s and overexposed from f12 to f4.5.
Is that 3 stops overexposure? or a bit less right?

I still want to develop the film solely to determine light leaks, so i dont care if the image isnt sharp enough at f4.5.

I got access to d-76 and Rodinal.

How should I change the times and method of developing to rescue the film?

The devchart at digitaltruth says 6-7mins at iso 100 with d-76, 3.5mins for rodinal 1+25 at 100iso.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Rick A]

Try Rodinal 1+100 for 45 mins stand development. My tests for my type of development shows at least one stop speed loss right off the top, so you won't be too far off using it. If you do lose the shot it's not a big deal, unless it was something important. At least you'll know if there was a leak.

 

[afrank]

Try Rodinal 1+100 for 45 mins stand development. My tests for my type of development shows at least one stop speed loss...

Thanks, but it seems like I will need more than just 1 stop...
f11 ---(+1)---> f8 ---(+1)--> f5.6 -(+1)-> f4

30mins perhaps? 2x-15mins

 

[Felinik]

Rodinal 1:100, Stand Dev 60mins...

 

[afrank]

Rodinal 1:100, Stand Dev 60mins...

I overexposed the film by 3 stops, I need to under-develop right? Or do you guys mean 60-45mins stand already does -1;-2 in development?

 

[Felinik]

Check this article out:
http://www.feelingnegative.com/darkroom/rodinal-the-magic-elixir

 

[afrank]

Perhaps one of the reasons I love this method the most is that if I find a random undeveloped roll (seems to happen quite a lot), or I don’t know the proper speed of a film, it doesn’t quite matter. Using this technique gives me a usable image regardless.

This is all I could find similar to my situation in that article. It assumes that the speed its irrelevant but that it was correctly exposed.

 

[Felinik]

You will be ok, here's more information about stand dev with rodinal:

" you are no longer bound by one of the biggest advantages digital has over film, you can change ISO on the fly. This is huge. Large format photographers have always had this advantage because each frame they shoot is seperate, so they could develop each negative differently according to whether it was pushed, pulled, high contrast, low contrast etc. "

http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/

 

[polyglot]

Overexposure does not need Dead Link Removed as it already has plenty of shadow detail. You want reduced development time (keep the shadows down) with plenty of agitation otherwise you risk getting dead/flat highlights, i.e. you want to take the opposite approach to grossly underexposed film where the shadows need rescuing.

For a start, Fomapan 100 is really only good for about EI50, so you're only 1.8 stops over. And in the grand scheme of things, 2 stops over on a negative film is practically nothing. My normal development at EI50 is D76 1+1 for 8:00 rotary and that gives a slightly contrasty neg that's good for a diffusion enlarger. So in your case I'd suggest developing for about 7:00 in D76 1+1. The neg will be a little thick but you won't be able to tell from the prints that you did anything wrong with the exposure.

If you were keen on Rodinal (it is, after all, speed reducing), you could use that too. But don't stand develop it, go for a normal (1+50) concentration, plenty of agitation and a nice short development time of, I dunno, maybe 6:30. I'm sure that'd work OK, but the times I quoted above for D76 are from experience rather than guessing off the MDC chart.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Use a developer that produces less than box speed such as Perceptol or D-23.

 

[afrank]

Overexposure does not need Dead Link Removed as it already has plenty of shadow detail. You want reduced development time (keep the shadows down) with plenty of agitation otherwise you risk getting dead/flat highlights, i.e. you want to take the opposite approach to grossly underexposed film where the shadows need rescuing......

Thanks a lot! I was hesitating about the stand dev. and this seems more consistent with the theory I have read so far all over. I may try that stand dev on another film tho.
If foma is around 50 then lucky me i need to take it to 12.5 I will try your advice since all I need is to detect light leaks and other mayor issues with the camera.

 

[afrank]

I tried the recommended d76 1+3 around 6-7min and it worked great, better than expected, a printable negativ a bit dense but usable!

Thanks all