but it seems that I over exposed by two stops. I was just curious if folks had an opinion on how to process the negative, or if foma100 can handle this much light (therefore I should process it normally)
Probably you will get a better negative than if you had exposed at box speed.
First, as stated, Foma 100 box speed is a bit inflated, if not an stop at leat half, datasheet suggests that calibration was made with an speed gaining developer and with some overdevelopment which boosts speed a bit compared to more regular ratings.
ISO norm to rate speed allows to use any developer for the rating, but that overdevelopment in the manufacturer's rating test a bit arbitrary.
Second, overexposing a bit negative film is not bad usually, the ISO speed tells you the minimum exposure you should use to still have some detail in those shadows that (spot meter) are at -3, so you can use an acceptable shutter speed. Until 1960 the same film was rated 1 stop slower as a "safety factor" for incorrect exposures, or variability in the metering methods mostly to prevent shadows being clipped.
If your scenes have strong highlights you want to preserve (or to print easy in the darkroom) then a plain general overexposure may damage those highlights, in that case you perform an N- development, you reduce development time to not allow the highlights reach insanely high densities while shadows will mostly be developed the same. In that case your negative will have less contrast but you address that in the printin by using a more contrasty paper or (in the hybrid) adjusting the curve in Photoshop.
To clear your doubts, I'd suggest you spend test roll (or some frames) making bracketings, shooting a test scense from -1 to +3, and spot metering key areas in the scene to know the local under-over exposure.
With negative film, no much problem with overexposure... underexposure is a way worse problem. With slides it's the counter, you easily burn highlights so it's good to spot meter highlights to know if something is to be toasted.