Are you saying you have developed film using the Foma kit and compared the results side-by-side to b&w slides processed by DR5?DR5 is the best of the best. ... hands down.. even if someone have done various home kits ( tmax or foma &c ) ... there really is no comparison
I have read many posts about users experiences with the Foma kit as well as the several other recipes, Kodak kit, Ilford kit, etc. But I did not see anyone directly comparing results from the Foma kit to what DR5 is producing.if you are interested in the FOMA kit, that means doing it yourself, then search the forum and you will find many do it yourself recipes. the cost of 5 rolls of DR5 will get you quite a few more doing it yourself. Im not saying that DR5 is bad, im sure they get great results, its just that making your own solutions up is not hard, gets great results and saves a lot of money
How so? That is, what kind of deficiencies can I expect to see in the Foma slides compared to the same filmstock processed by DR5?From private information, IMHO DR5 is indeed the best of the best. Bar none!
PE
Surely, there must be some kind of comparison. How can someone say something is the best if it has never actually been compared to the competition?DR5 is the best of the best. ... hands down.. even if someone have done various home kits ( tmax or foma &c ) ... there really is no comparison
So DR5 can do something that can't be obtained from existing formulas or kits?? Do they have a proprietary process? My question is if I would bracket, same as I do with Fujichrome, and toss out the duds. What makes the DR5 unique?
So DR5 can do something that can't be obtained from existing formulas or kits?? Do they have a proprietary process? My question is if I would bracket, same as I do with Fujichrome, and toss out the duds. What makes the DR5 unique?
Surely, there must be some kind of comparison. How can someone say something is the best if it has never actually been compared to the competition?
AND how does one dispose of DIchromate Bleach and Sulfuric Acid which are probably what are in the Foma Kit?
Ok, I found their website. Their results look amazing. These guys are a couple hour drive from me. I could try espionage, but in a town of 1500 people even a fellow Iowan would stick out like a sore thumb. I'm going to shoot a roll of 120. Medium yellow filter big fluffy clouds. Send it off, see what I getDR5 has been doing the same since 1991. They have exposure recommendations on their website for nearly every film made today or yesterday. They are available for consultation if you have questions, Dave Wood has a business with a reputation made from decades of experience and decades of extremely happy customers. No I have not used the Foma Kit, it wouldn't be worth it to me to use the kit and potentially screw up my film because of my lack of experience with their kit and lack of experience on the best way to expose the film too. I never bothered with the TMAX kit either, I had friends who did and they enjoyed themselves. The way I see it is I put all my money towards the people who know what they are doing, and even though I have been processing film for nearly 40 years with only a couple mishaps to speak of, I wouldn't bother, unless of course the film was just shot with nothing important on it as an experiment to see what the kit was like. AND how does one dispose of DIchromate Bleach and Sulfuric Acid which are probably what are in the Foma Kit? Its not worth the effort to deal with any of that, especially if DR5CHROME is a known quantity.
Of course YMMV.
Have fun!
J
Thanks so much for sharing your experience with the Foma kit!I've used the Foma kit a fair bit, and if you get the exposure correct, the results were definitely worth it. As the previous poster mentions, expose for the highlights, so with anything that needs detail, aim at an exposure for Zone VII/VII.5. Having said that, I had a particular workflow - reversal processing FP4/Tri-X/Foma100 in both 35mm, 120 and 4x5 sheet, then enlarging on to 10x8 wetplate, which needs a positive. The major issue is ascertaining what kind of contrast you want to achieve - in my case, wetplate has a contrast range of 4 zones (IV through VII) so I was aiming for a fairly flattish result.
Grain is not an issue at the enlargements I am making (10x8). FP4 is my preferred film stock: low grain, good shadow detail (within the limits set by the process), good contrast range, very tight on highlight detail (exposure has to be spot-on). I use a Jobo processor, so temperature and rotation is managed. Timing of development has been with the Foma recommendations - I think that exposure is more critical.
that's good !There is no Dichromate in the Foma bleach.
They are using some kind of chromogenic intensification in DR5 like Kodachrome. It will increase Dmax far beyond any usual b/w reversal processing and as in staining developers, but in much more preferrable way - granular characteristics of the film (grain will be much less visible, tone will be much more smooth).
Not trying to be argumentative here, but sometimes it's worth remembering the words of Grace Hopper, American computer scientist and United States Navy rear admiral.
"One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions."
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