FOMA Films Advice sought

[white.elephant]

Greetings All

I've been reading a lot about FOMA films and their 'old style' look. People talk about it feeling like a film from the 1930's. So, before I purchase, I'm looking for advice on developers (I currently use mostly Xtol and some Rodinal), differences between the various ISO speeds, etc. Any thoughts would be welcome.

Again, looking at using it for the different look, embracing it, as it were.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Pretty much any of the Foma films I'd rate a whole speed slower than box speed - ie shoot the 400 at 200, the 100 at 50. I'd probably start with Rodinal if that's what you're familiar with.

 

[Rick A]

I shoot lots of Foma 100 at box speed, and develope in Pyrocat-HD. I love the results, I suppose thats why I shoot so much of it. I shoot almost as much Adox CHS 25 art, and Rollei Ortho, all give the 'look' I am after.

 

[lns]

I have shot Foma 100 at box speed and developed in Rodinal 1:50 with very good results (120 film).

I've shot 35mm Foma 200 at 125 and developed in X-Tol 1:1 and also in Rodinal 1:50. In both developers, I got great blacks and midtones, but the highlights were a little hot, so I would adjust something were I to use it again.

-Laura

 

[BetterSense]

I've always found it rather slow. Last time I shot a roll of AristaEDU.Ultra, I purposely shot it as a 50 speed film, and the negatives still weren't overly dense in the shadows. It does look wonderful though, if you get it dialed in. I would consider it a somewhat finicky film.

 

[Necator]

I shoot Fomapan 100 (120) at box speed and normally develop it in Rodinal 1:50, with good results. One of my latest shots, scanned from negative, and minimal contrast added in post processing (Yes, hybrid workflow, but I don't have a complete darkroom - yet). It have tried it with good results in Fomadon P (D76 clone), so D76/ID-11 should work as well.

Henrik

 

[Aurelien]

Xtol and Foma 400 is a perfect couple.

 

[Brian Legge]

I really like Foma 100 at 100, developed in Rodinal. It is the first pairing I've developed that jumped out at me as distinctly different than my other work. I went with Rodinal 50:1, 20 minutes, 15 seconds initial agitation, 8 seconds every 5 minutes.

A few shots from a zombie walk in Seattle (Autocord):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/4760896355
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/4760892975

A few shots from Artopia in Seattle (Zenobia):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/4740711639
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/4741032557

Good examples of the sort of detail and tone I've been getting from the pair. I thoughtlessly tried running Fomapan 400 t 400 through a similar process. The results were disappointing - lots of grain and not very sharp. Workable in medium format but not something I'm likely to try again:

Zenobia again in similar lighting conditions:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/4811885509
...ignore the fact that I scratched the heck out of this negative somehow...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/4817662528

 

[Vlad Soare]

Fomapan 100 is a very good film, certainly better than one would expect given its price. It's very consistent from batch to batch, and I have yet to encounter any manufacturing defects.
However, there are two things I don't quite like about it.
First, its long exposure behaviour is the worst of all films I know (though in some situations this may be used to your advantage, and besides, its Schwarzschild characteristic is well documented and consistent, so it's quite controllable).
Second, it has a tendency of building up contrast very quickly. In high contrast situations this is a nuisance, because if you curtail the development you risk reducing the local contrast too much. Whenever I tried to do minus development with Fomapan 100 I got muddy midtones and very thin shadows.

 

[darkosaric]

Fomapan 400, Rodinal 1+50, print scan:

Dead Link Removed

Fomapan 100, Rodinal 1+25, red filter, print scan:

Dead Link Removed

Paper used: fotokemika emaks grade 2 FB.

I hope it helps.

 

[white.elephant]

I shoot lots of Foma 100 at box speed, and develope in Pyrocat-HD. I love the results, I suppose thats why I shoot so much of it. I shoot almost as much Adox CHS 25 art, and Rollei Ortho, all give the 'look' I am after.

This is really helpful, thanks, because it is the look I'm after. I'll investigate those films as well.

 

[white.elephant]

I have shot Foma 100 at box speed and developed in Rodinal 1:50 with very good results (120 film).

I've shot 35mm Foma 200 at 125 and developed in X-Tol 1:1 and also in Rodinal 1:50. In both developers, I got great blacks and midtones, but the highlights were a little hot, so I would adjust something were I to use it again.

-Laura

Great warning, thanks.

 

[white.elephant]

I shoot Fomapan 100 (120) at box speed and normally develop it in Rodinal 1:50, with good results. One of my latest shots, scanned from negative, and minimal contrast added in post processing (Yes, hybrid workflow, but I don't have a complete darkroom - yet). It have tried it with good results in Fomadon P (D76 clone), so D76/ID-11 should work as well.

Henrik

Any suggested time/temp?

 

[white.elephant]

Xtol and Foma 400 is a perfect couple.

Actually, I saw this image and just loved it, and is is what sent me down this part to investigate.

Thank you.

 

[white.elephant]

I really like Foma 100 at 100, developed in Rodinal. It is the first pairing I've developed that jumped out at me as distinctly different than my other work. I went with Rodinal 50:1, 20 minutes, 15 seconds initial agitation, 8 seconds every 5 minutes.

Thank you so much, great info, love the look of these images.

 

[white.elephant]

Fomapan 100 is a very good film, certainly better than one would expect given its price. It's very consistent from batch to batch, and I have yet to encounter any manufacturing defects.
However, there are two things I don't quite like about it.
First, its long exposure behaviour is the worst of all films I know (though in some situations this may be used to your advantage, and besides, its Schwarzschild characteristic is well documented and consistent, so it's quite controllable).
Second, it has a tendency of building up contrast very quickly. In high contrast situations this is a nuisance, because if you curtail the development you risk reducing the local contrast too much. Whenever I tried to do minus development with Fomapan 100 I got muddy midtones and very thin shadows.

Have you tried pulling it?

 

[Necator]

Any suggested time/temp?

For 1+50, I develop for 7 minutes at 20 degrees centigrade. 10 seconds agitation when I start, and then agitate for 10 seconds once per minute. For me, that is usually 5 inversions of the tank.

 

[brucemuir]

For 1+50, I develop for 7 minutes at 20 degrees centigrade. 10 seconds agitation when I start, and then agitate for 10 seconds once per minute. For me, that is usually 5 inversions of the tank.

For Fomapan 100 MDC states 8-10 for 1+50 @ 20c
did this give you blocked highlights and did you adjust accordingly?

It gives 7 miniutes for 1+100 @ 20c

I'm in the process of dialing in Foma 100 myself and would appreciate ANY actual user observations with Rodinal

 

[Dave in Kansas]

Note that the 7 min developing time on the MDC for Rodinal 1:100 is for an EI of 50.

Dave

 

[Leighgion]

I find Fomapan 100 stand developed in Rodinal 1:100 is very much to my liking and quite "old time" in its look. Have yet to try exposing it at 50.

 

[jpa]

I haven't used the 100, but love the 200 and like the 400. I usually shoot the 200 at EI 160 and develop in Rodinal 1:50 for 9 minutes.

 

[Ross Chambers]

I finally did the dull procedure required to find my personal EI with Fomapan 200 (5x7" sheets) Nothing as inspirational as lightly textured walls as subjects.

I emphasise personal, but my result was to rate it at ISO 100, and develop in D76 1+1 20 degrees C for 6 minutes for a 5 stop SBR.

This is for silver gelatin printing.

For salt and cyano printing I rate it at ISO 64 and develop in D76 1+1 20 degrees C for a basic 8 minutes, but usually 25-30 % over, to gain higher contrast.

Regards - Ross

 

[white.elephant]

These comments have all been really helpful and encouraging. Thank you.

 

[mrred]

Fomapan 100 is a very good film, certainly better than one would expect given its price. It's very consistent from batch to batch, and I have yet to encounter any manufacturing defects.
However, there are two things I don't quite like about it.
First, its long exposure behaviour is the worst of all films I know (though in some situations this may be used to your advantage, and besides, its Schwarzschild characteristic is well documented and consistent, so it's quite controllable).
Second, it has a tendency of building up contrast very quickly. In high contrast situations this is a nuisance, because if you curtail the development you risk reducing the local contrast too much. Whenever I tried to do minus development with Fomapan 100 I got muddy midtones and very thin shadows.

These are all the reasons I love this film for pyro use. It was made for it.