foma film

[chip j]

Should one use a hardening fixer with it?

 

[MDR]

You don't need to. Handle the film with care and in a dust free environment. If you are afraid of scratches
use a hardening developer (Pyro developers). You can of course use a hardening fixer but a lot can happen between the start and the end of the developing process. Also hardening fixers tend to be harder to wash out. Don't use a stop bath with foma films use water or if you want to use an acid stop bath dilute it a lot.

 

[hoshisato]

I do not use a hardening fixer or a separate harderner and I'm happy with the results. I do use water instead of a stop bath but I always do that and I wasn't aware it could be an issue for Fomapan film. These are the results I get and the recipes I used for Fomapan 100, 200 and 400: http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/tag/fomapan/

 

[OldBodyOldSoul]

Fomapan is bleh. But then, I have shot only two rolls of 100 so it's not like I gave it a fair chance. Still, for the time I have given it, it underperformed in a beautifully consistent fashion - I almost flatlined looking at the negatives.
So, not sure about hardening but keep the CPR equipment nearby so you can make yourself feel something when looking at the results.

That's about the Fomapan 100. I am now trying to prepare myself for shooting a roll of Fomapan 400. The plan is to get drunk, eat a pound of chilly peppers and then, just before I dunk the roll in developer, let some terrible heavy metal rip. It's going to be awesome or gruesome, but I ain't gonna flatline.

Sorry for not being of any help but it's been that kind of a day.

 

[Rick A]

As mentioned in other threads, I shoot Fomapan 100 in three formats and two brands, Foma and Arista. I usually shoot box speed and develop for recommended times in PMK Pyro unless it is a contrasty scene, then over expose and pull developing time. I also use D-76 and occasionally Rodinal(use half speed in Rodinal no matter what). The emulsion is soft(as spec'd by factory) and they recommend no acid stop or diluted half working strength to avoid pinholes in the emulsion. I've shot a over a hundred sheets of 4x5 and it's become my mainstay film in LF. I have two 100ft rolls of it in 135, and probably 50 rolls of 120 remaining. I like the stuff, and don't forsee switching any time soon. It did take me a while to dial in what I do with it for the look I want.

 

[Xmas]

Should one use a hardening fixer with it?

unnecessary
no pre bath
hold all solutions to 0.5 C
soup
plain water rince
plain hypo
plain water rince
HCA
Ilford archivel wash cycle
surfant
clip
film squeegee

no problems over 500 135 films some from bulk some 120...

Dries flat

 

[chip j]

Thanks, Xmas. My lab developed some and there was damage to the emulsion. My kind of LOOK though!

 

[TheToadMen]

... I also use D-76 and occasionally Rodinal(use half speed in Rodinal no matter what)....

Thanks for the warning: I was planning on trying fomapan in Rodinal someday.

 

[Rick A]

Never, ever, under any circumstances use a squeegee on Foma film. It is sure to damage the emulsion. Don't even wet your fingers to wipe it down. I use Ethol LFN (use which ever brand you want)rinse aid in distilled water with a capfull of 90% isopropyl alcohol and shake off any excess water before hanging to dry, no water marks or streaking afterward.

 

[TheToadMen]

Ne4ver, ever, under any circumstances use a squeegee on Foma film. It is sure to damage the emulsion. Don't even wet your fingers to wipe it down. I use Ethol LFN (use which ever brand you want)rinse aid in distilled water with a capfull of 90% isopropyl alcohol and shake off any excess water before hanging to dry, no water marks or streaking afterward.

Another good tip!

 

[Xmas]

Never, ever, under any circumstances use a squeegee on Foma film. It is sure to damage the emulsion. Don't even wet your fingers to wipe it down. I use Ethol LFN (use which ever brand you want)rinse aid in distilled water with a capfull of 90% isopropyl alcohol and shake off any excess water before hanging to dry, no water marks or streaking afterward.

Hi Rick

When I said + 500 135 I meant that not got any sign off damage with Kaiser film squeegee yet.

Noel

 

[Xmas]

Thanks, Xmas. My lab developed some and there was damage to the emulsion. My kind of LOOK though!

Too large temperature changes could give what would look like grain

Too acid a stop dont no never tried.

What sort of damage did you get?

Ocassionally get abrasion damage from plastic spirals but not confined to Foma~ from reverse curl.

 

[Rick A]

Hi Rick

When I said + 500 135 I meant that not got any sign off damage with Kaiser film squeegee yet.

Noel

Why chance it when it's not needed. I damaged a roll of film with a brand new squeegee many years ago, decided that the person that told me not to use one was right. Never had spotting or streaking issues after changing to my currant method (45+ yrs ago).

 

[Waz is hopeful]

Why chance it when it's not needed. I damaged a roll of film with a brand new squeegee many years ago, decided that the person that told me not to use one was right. Never had spotting or streaking issues after changing to my currant method (45+ yrs ago).

In my defence I am very new to home developing & printing (5 Months).
After developing my first 6 foma 35mm (100 & 400 asa) films, I couldnt help but notice tram lines down the length of the roll on all except 1, blamed my newly acquired Canon eos 1V as I presumed the one good roll was run through a minolta x300, duely felt nothing inside the camera but gave a clean anyway to be sure.

Done another roll Saturday in a canon 1n and tram lines again, as a test I ran the squeegee across the roll on the bottom unexposed part and yes tram lines.

Squeegee gone in the bin, and now purchased some de-min water to rinse and shake as a final clean.

However I have been using ilfostop as a stop bath will it have adverse affects on the neg's ??

Warren

 

[Rick A]

In my defence I am very new to home developing & printing (5 Months).
After developing my first 6 foma 35mm (100 & 400 asa) films, I couldnt help but notice tram lines down the length of the roll on all except 1, blamed my newly acquired Canon eos 1V as I presumed the one good roll was run through a minolta x300, duely felt nothing inside the camera but gave a clean anyway to be sure.

Done another roll Saturday in a canon 1n and tram lines again, as a test I ran the squeegee across the roll on the bottom unexposed part and yes tram lines.

Squeegee gone in the bin, and now purchased some de-min water to rinse and shake as a final clean.

However I have been using ilfostop as a stop bath will it have adverse affects on the neg's ??

Warren

I would dilute the stop by half the recommended strength. I use stop with everything except PMK Pyro and Pyrocat HD, then two water rinses between developer and fix. I f the stop is too strong it could cause pinholes in the emulsion. I experiences this effect on a couple of sheets of 4x5 early on, and switched.

 

[Xmas]

You are supposed to clean the squeegee before use every time.

There are only 200 chalk rivers on this planet and I live between two of them. The furthest is two miles away.

The only way I can easly avoid chalk drying marks is

a final bath of surfant
foamed
shake reel dry dry
hang to dry
squeegee

Not had a scratch yet, all other methods tried over decades failed, this one works for me. When ahead at black jack stick.

Works with Foma, c41 etc., .... and it was ok with Fotokemia.

YMMV!

Noel

 

[R.Gould]

With Foma, almost the only film I use for B/W, I never use a stop bath as that can cause pinholes in the emulsion, as I found to my cost early on, after a wash I rinse in wetting agent, I don't need a de ionsed water as our water is very soft over here, and no problems. then with 120 I shake he reel and hang up to dry, with 35mm I find that you need to wipe the shiny side, so I use a folded sheet of kitchen roll, and wipe the shiny side only,and leave to dry, I find if you don't wipe 35mm I get drying marks, but never touch the emulsion side while the film is wet,you will mark it, I have used this method for a few years now and it works

 

[MattKing]

If you can dry the film at something close to a 45 degree angle it helps.

You can always run your fingers down the edges as well.