They do to me.
Perhaps a holdover from my days making prints for others based on proofs or contact sheets.
Thanks Paul. This thought I must admit I don’t knowIs it the same or related to old super double X for still?
They're only useful if indexed by a contact sheet. And it would make sense they'd be useful when identifying the frame in the strip you want enlarged. It'd be great if a scanner would register the number somehow, so you could use scans as an easy index to your negatives. Alas....
When I scan film, the file name I choose for each frame consists of the frame number and the exposure date code I assign to the particular roll of film.
For those times when I shoot more than one roll, the exposure date code has "A", "B", "C" etc. added to it
And then I (often) add that identifying information to prints or digital displays of the image.
So frame numbers are part of my organization system, which tries to integrate both darkroom and digital versions.
The alternative would be to add them manually to the rebate of the film using a technical pen - been there, done that, don't want to have to do it again.
This is quite a nice idea and way of organising the scans. Thanks
Perhaps a difficult one to answer but I’ll post the question. Would love your opinions and suggestions.
I shoot HP5 when I’m shooting something serious.
I want a 35mm B&W anything everything film that I can shoot as cheaply as possible and not worry about “wasting” film. I shoot my friends and family with this and quite carefree about shooting.
At the moment, for this purpose, I’ve gone through 4 bulk rolls of Fomapan 100. Indoors I use bounce flash. Outdoors I use full if needed or natural light alone.
I can get bulk fomapan 100 at a price that works out to 2.70 per roll.
The other affordable bulk film I can get at decent price is Kodak Double X at a price that works out to 3.54 per roll.
My questions are this:
Is double X better enough (in terms of grain, latitude, etc/overall and generally) to justify the price increase and dealing with 400ft bulk rolls (over easy 100ft rolls).
Would you switch to XX over Foma 100?
I know one is ~160-200iso and the other ~80iso. Yes, would be nice to have a little more speed but I have no issues this far with Foma 100’s speed. So that’s only a tiny consideration.
Happy to hear your thoughts widely on the topic!
100ft rolls of Movie film generaly came on a "#10" spool. AKA an Eymo Spool. 1/4 inch square center hole, and big enough to hold 100ft. aluminum flange. Will NOT fit a LLoyd loader. will fit most others.(When 100' rolls of movie film were available they came on a different core, one made for movie cameras, and would not fit a standard bulk loader (could be wrong - working from memory here, not something to put a lot of trust in).)
since they went to Keykode numbering the year of manufacture is part of the edge printing. recentl rolls have the date in the clear, (ie 2021) while you have to use a chart to decode some rolls.The thing is with XX is you don’t know how old it is unless you buy the can and spool it yourself. And there are superior film such as fresh HP5+ that are not expensive if you bulk.
Do frame numbers matter to you.? XX doesn't have them, although there are probably keycodes. I don't know whether Foma 100 does.
what the characteristic curves are various developer as Kodak recommends D96 in a film film processor, or grain size. The data sheet, as it is, was updated in 2022, but I think the film is a very old emulsion.
They’re handy. Without them, I can locate a frame only from my film number and the position of that frame on the 36-exp acetate sheet. If there are several near-identical frames, it’s important to know which one you printed before! I like Double -X enough to endure this sacrifice, though.Do they matter to anyone?
Thanks for the easy loading tip. That might just do it…
Is that what you mean you learnt from Mr Rapidwinder?
I wish I could find some short ends. Can’t find those in the UK…
This is the thing: I don’t really push film any more because I use flash. I have an SB900 or whatever the big Nikon flash is. It’s strong enough for indoor and outdoor since I only shoot family and friends and those distances are relatively short. I don’t shoot landscapes or experimental/arty pictures on film - that I shoot on digital.
This lower light point I didn’t know. So I shouldn’t shoot it mid day? Or if I have to, how should I?
Well it's an all day and night film. The toe is nice and the mids and highs can be a little steep in the full sun. Not much roll off at the top, even with D23. I've been developing it 8 minutes straight D23 so my noon (full sun) frames are hot but morning , evening and night are good. The flash situation you described should be perfect.
100% crops. First is Double-X @ 200 exposure (from Cinestill), second is Fomapan 100 @ 50 exposure. Both in 510-pyro with normal development for 200 and 100.I assumed it had a less grainy appearance than foma but I have been reading a lot saying the opposite…
I could use both but I much prefer the simplicity of just having one film to work with 90% of the time.
I’d buy the 400 roll (if I do get double x) from a seller who supplies film
Production so should be ok I’d imagine. Do the cans have exp dates like “regular” film?
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