folders, folders, folders

[Jennyann]

I tried to look at the above site but it doesn't come up ..... what am I doing wrong?
We were going through our old cameras today and found that some of the shutters are playing up a bit so any advice from this site would be very welcome.

Jenny.

 

[wdemere]

It is certo6.com I had it as cert06, but I corrected it. You can contact him at jurgen@certo6.com

Sorry,

William

 

[Jennyann]

I just thought you may like to know that I have updated the folder section on my website with the details of new additions to my collection of old folders and photos taken with them. The address is :

http://www.jennyandernie.co.uk/Old Cameras/Old Cameras.htm

Any comments would be very welcome.

Jenny.

 

[Solinar]

Jenny,

The incredible number of wonderful scans left me a bit in awe. Do think about expanding the index so visitors can sort by camera.

It's great to see someone putting the old folders through so much use. I loved the grounded boats and the one Perkeo II photo of Istanbul.

Cheers,

Andrew Yue
http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/misc/AnscAgfa.html

 

[rjs003]

Andrew
Just paid a visit to your above memtioned web site and I have book marked it. I don't believe I have seen so much information on the Agfa and Ansco cameras. Many thanks for the insight. I'll be spending more time at the web site as time allows.

 

[Thomassauerwein]

I just got my first folder, It is a Perkeo 1, 6x6. It's in great shape. David Goldfard is the one who turned me onto the idea when I saw his when he pulled it out to grab a shot while we were gallery shopping last year. It's taken that long to find one. The test role came out great. I've shot a bunch of street stuff but have yet to process. I feel really good about it though. It's really strange having to think so much more about all the funtion with such a small camera.

 

[Jennyann]

Thank you Andrew for your very kind comments on my website - I am now taking your advice and putting an index to the vintage camera section (it is something I had thought about but needed your proverbial kick up the bum to get it done lol)

Jenny.

 

[bostondave01]

A 120-film Kodak Tourist discovery

Hello From a New Member... You have a great forum here! Over the years, I've assembled quite a few cameras, including a Kodak Tourist (Anaston 4.5 lens), Monitor 620, Agfa Ventura 66 Deluxe, and ANSCO Titan. I'm going to start testing the Tourist first, and wanted to share a discovery about using 120 film directly in the camera.

The following statement isn't new knowledge, but if you Dremel down the metal ridges at the bottom of the supply chamber and add an approximately 2/16-inch-thick "plastic donut" spacer where the ridges had been, you can just slip in a 120 roll... if it's on a plastic spindle whose flanges you have trimmed back to the edge of the film).

NOTE: I have not yet adapted the take-up chamber to accept 120 spools. So (for the time being) I'll still have to back-spool, or ask my processor to return the 620 spool to me.

My real discovery (I think) is that my Tourist also came with the optional Adapter Kit, which included a second camera back. And when this back is set to either its "2/14 SQ" or "828" settings, you get a 120-compatible film-number viewing window that is smack in the center of the camera back! (Sadly, my Kodak Monitor 620 won't also accept this back without some unacceptable major surgery... BUT the Tourist Adapter kit's film-plane masks for 4x6 1/2-frame, 2-1/4-square, and 828 images--along with the 828 film adapters-- DO seem to fit into the Monitor! You'd just have to guess the appropriate winding amounts for these formats.)

And speaking of 828 film, I did manage to adapt a cute Kodak Bantam (with Anastar lens) to shoot 35mm film. I didn't do surgery, but instead, figured out how to (in a changing bag) remove the film from its canister and load it into the camera. Then, winding amounts were by "guess and by golly." (With the addition of a square mask glued to the film plane, I actually got 42 images from a 24-exposure roll.) And the Anastar lens produced wonderfully sharp, colorful photos (I was using hyperfocal focusing settings computed from one of the calculators available on the web).

Perhaps, I could similarly use film-plane masking and the Tourist Adapter's 828 film carriers to take true panoramic images on 35-mm film? Who knows!

Again, I'm going to try the Tourist with 120 film soon... hopefully, with Kodak's Chromogenic B/W. If anyone has already done so, I'd love to hear how it went. I'd also love to hear about any other similar experiments others have done.

Thanks!

Dave

 

[Glenn Mathison]

Just stumbled across this thread...

My first folder was an Agfa Solinette II that my wife picked up at a junk sale for the princely sum of $6 Aussie. (About $4 USD). She thought it looked kind of cute and thought I'd like it.

When I saw it I wasn't so sure, but it seemd to work, so I put some film through it and I was amazed....

Since then, I've added a Ross Ensign 620 and a Ziess Ikon 6x9 folder as well. The Ensign had a shutter problem I haven't yet tried to fix, but the Zies takes great shots. 6x9 in your pocket Bewdiful...

And I echo some of the previous posters when I confess to just loving the oh-so-manual process for taking shots. Forces me to slow down and think more. Somehow addictive.

As for metering, I always have a small hand held meter with me..

Glenn

 

[fhovie]

I recently bought a Iconta C with a Novar lens- I am not at all happy with the Novar lens - It is sharp in the center and soft all around making the 6x9 less usefull. It also fogs the film where the "ruby red" viewing window is in the back for film advance. I have tried to be very careful about sliding the cover back only in shade and I just cant get a roll through it without fog on half the frames.

I really like the fold but here is my list of must haves and don't needs - I don't need a coupled rangefinder - I can estimate and set range just fine. I do need a lens that is sharp edge to edge. I do need 6x9. I can't use a camera that fogs during film advance. I will be using fast film (1600) and it seems the backing paper on modern film is just not dense enough. Any ideas??

 

[David H. Bebbington]

I will be using fast film (1600) and it seems the backing paper on modern film is just not dense enough. Any ideas??

I think the solution is to bear in mind that
a) folding cameras 50 and more years old were designed to work with the films of the time rated at ISO 50 to 80
b) the dyestuff in the red windows of camera backs will certainly have faded quite a lot in this period.
Using ISO 1600 films with old cameras (even Leicas) is very ambitious - I might suggest painting the inside of the red window of your camera with a clear red varnish (I am sure nail varnish would fill the bill) and also always ensuring that direct sunlight never falls on the window (point the camera towards the sun before opening the cover and winding the film).

 

[Ole]

Well, I've got two more now...

A Balda 6x9, and a pristine Voigtländer VEB 6.5x9 plate camera with Skopar lens. Of the seven plate holders I got with it, there are plates in six... I'm going to develop one or two to see if it's exposed; if not, I'll try using the rest. I wonder what the sensitivity is after 50 or so years?

 

[colrehogan]

I have an old Kodak Folding Pocket Model 3a camera (it was in a box of old cameras that my mother in law had) and I got some film from Film for Classics and shot a roll. When they developed it, they liked one of the shots enough that they sent me a 5x7 enlargment. The film is 3 1/4 x 5 1/2 (122) It's really a neat camera to use and it draws people's attention on a tripod.

It apparently has a plate back (I'm trying to pick up one on ebay at the moment, let me know if the old plates work. (Just got some that are twice as old (they were made in 1904 in St. Louis (I got them because of that, really, not to use.)) How do you develop plates anyway?

 

[Ole]

How do you develop plates anyway?

Just like sheet film - only it's easier, since the plates are less likely to float to the top of the developer

 

[Jeremy]

I have an old Kodak Folding Pocket Model 3a camera (it was in a box of old cameras that my mother in law had) and I got some film from Film for Classics and shot a roll. When they developed it, they liked one of the shots enough that they sent me a 5x7 enlargment. The film is 3 1/4 x 5 1/2 (122) It's really a neat camera to use and it draws people's attention on a tripod.

It apparently has a plate back (I'm trying to pick up one on ebay at the moment, let me know if the old plates work. (Just got some that are twice as old (they were made in 1904 in St. Louis (I got them because of that, really, not to use.)) How do you develop plates anyway?

These folding cameras can be adapted to take 120 film and shoot 6x12-15cm negs. I've got one I need to patch the bellows and adapt when I get around to it.

 

[thomas_m]

I actually own the Zeiss Super Ikonta III shown at the bottom of Jurgen's Zeiss page on his website. I bought it from him on eBay and have been very pleased with the camera. I normally use a Mamiya 6 but the Super Ikonta has been great when I just want to pocket a camera and still get my favorite negative format.

I also had a beautiful Super Ikonta IV but the linked shutter/aperture is so fiddly, I sold it and kept the 'user' III.

Thomas

If you are interested in folders check out www.certo6.com. This is Jurgen Kreckel's website. He repairs and sells folders, and does a great job on them. I had a Zeiss Mess-Ikonta that was stolen from my car that he CLA'd that I wish I still had.

 

[Saganich]

It may not be the window. Mine had a missing screw which fogged the film in the same place as the window.

chris

 

[Bill Bresler]

I do have a thing for an Agfa Isolette II.

 

[Wouter from Brazil]

I have a crush on them not only for the negative size and portability, but also for the joy of taking them apart when necessary and do simply mechanical repairs yourself - cleaning rangefinders and lenses for instance. I often run into old ones that nobody seems to care for. Sometimes a couple of hours work make a great shooter ! I´m now trying to understand the workings and construction of the shutters - the most complex part.
I have about 6 old Rollies, 3 working - a super ikonta C with Tessar 3.8, another ikonta 6x6 with a novar, a pre war bessa with a color heliar (changed the shutter and bellows). I would really like to upgrade to a postwar bessa with coated color heliar, for shooting while travelling.
For me, it´s the combined feeling of being an artesan and an artist that triggers it; gives me a lot of satisfaction.
I wish some camera factory would market a new topgrade 6x9 folder ..

 

[blaze-on]

Interesting this thread got bumped recently as I finally decided to send my Agfa Super Speedex R in to Jurgen to CLA and add a new green bellows.
Other than bellows and rangefinder being bad, the body covering and lens are in excellent condition. Bought for $30.00 of U-PAY. Add the $140.00 for Jurgen and hopefully a great user for $170.00. Now if it could turn in to a babe magnet...even better!

Can't wait to give it a go. Cheers.

 

[colrehogan]

I have a 6x9 folder that has leaky bellows and probably lots of dirt. Maybe I'll send it to him sometime too after I dig it out.

 

[oriecat]

Does anyone know much about Agfa Ansco B2 Speedex Jrs? I just got one, and I had a couple questions and I cant find much online. I'm just curious what the shutter speed is (or is supposed to be). And my two dials on the top don't match so I'm wondering if one is a replacement. I have seen two pics online and one had matching dials and the other didn't. Also, the way the dials turn, I would have to load on the right and spool to the left. Is that right? It seems really weird.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Does anyone know much about Agfa Ansco B2 Speedex Jrs? I just got one, and I had a couple questions and I cant find much online. I'm just curious what the shutter speed is (or is supposed to be). And my two dials on the top don't match so I'm wondering if one is a replacement. I have seen two pics online and one had matching dials and the other didn't. Also, the way the dials turn, I would have to load on the right and spool to the left. Is that right? It seems really weird.

The Speedex Jr. I have here is my second -- the first broke its door latch and then seems to have failed to move to North Carolina with me a few months ago. This one has minor bellows leaks that I'll fix sometime soon.

The shutter speed is 1/25 and minimum focus distance is about 6 feet at f/22, more like eight feet at f/11. The T setting is a true T -- press the release once to open, a second time to close -- which makes it relatively easy to leave the shutter open when you advance film, if you forget to switch it back to I. The shutter is extremely simple, I've cleaned both of mine (one of them twice, after mistakenly getting oil on the shutter the first time) and adjusted a bent part in the first one when the shutter got extremely stiff operating; both front and back glass are easily removed for cleaning as well, and are identical (both should be convex away from the shutter).

Neither of my Juniors have had matching knobs -- the film advance has a reeded edge, to provide grip for turning it, while the other one has grooves that around around the edge to provide grip for pulling it up to release the spool inside. Yes, film travel is from right to left.

The Speedex Jr. seems to have been made for several years; I've seen a couple minor variations on eBay. I can tell you that they produce insanely good pictures, B&W or color, for such a simple camera and lens; I've got images in which I can count the bricks in a chimney a block away and read license numbers on cars at half a block. If you do your part by holding the camera steady, and don't have too many bellows leaks (or you get them successfully patched -- Liquid Electrical Tape can be your friend, if you don't close the camera for at least 48 hours after application), you can get pictures that are almost indistiguishable from those made with a Standard Speedex having a focusing f/4.5 triplet lens and fully adjustable aperture and shutter (in fact, my Juniors have been better than my Standard; I think my Standard has a bent lens standard, as well as worse bellows than either of my Juniors).

I've mostly used ISO 400, shot at EI 200 in mine -- it overexposes one stop even from that EI in full sun (f/32 @ 1/25), but I pull my B&W one stop to compensate and don't bother with a pull on color; Portra 400 NC doesn't seem to mind the overexposure.

 

[oriecat]

Thank you Donald! Very helpful info, i can't wait to try it out now.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Just this past week, I received a Voigtlander Inos I folder, 6x9 on 120, 10.5 cm f/4.5 Skopar (unit focused with a simple lever on the focus scale), tiny waist level finder and pretty nice wire frame "sports" finder. Haven't had the chance to scan any of the negatives yet, but this promises to become my main "walking around" 6x9; the Skopar is at least as good as a Tessar, the dial-set Compur goes from 1 to 250 and is accurate within 1/2 stop on the slow speeds (previous owner cleaned it), glass is perfect, bellows light tight (no patches, after at least 75 years!). It's a bit smaller and significantly lighter than my Moskva-5 (stamped steel body instead of cast, I think), and my previous experience with 6x9 suggests I don't really need a rangefinder most of the time.

The only complaint I have with this and my other 6x9s is that they go through film like there's no tomorrow -- $4 a roll for TMY looks to break me when that's only 8 frames; I can shoot Fomapan 100 in 9x12 cm in my plate cameras for the same cost per negative, plus use movements and apply development adjustments to each sheet if needed. Simple solution -- time to make the jump to less expensive foreign film, likely either Fomapan or J&C Classic (rebranded Forte); the Classic 400 is less than half the price of TMY, or if I'm willing to give up two stops, the Pro 100 and Freestyle's .EDU ISO 125 are about 1/3 what I've been paying locally for TMY (and I'll know soon whether gentler development has solved the emulsion problems with the Pro 100 -- haven't got that roll scanned yet).