flattening RC roll paper

[BetterSense]

I have a 40" roll of paper, but it is so curly I don't know how to use it. I tried to cut 16x20 sheets out of it and each sheet just curls into a tube. I can't tray - process or hang it up, even if I could get it in the easel.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to flatten RC paper?

 

[MattKing]

Patience is your friend.

The paper can be re-trained, using reverse curling and flattening under weight.

The 12x15 sheets I cut out of a 30" roll and put into an envelope for 12x16 paper were reasonably flat after a couple of weeks of storage under weight.

If you try re-rolling with a reverse curl, assume that at least the top sheet will be compromised, due to being stored emulsion out.

Some people have reported success pulling the paper over the edge of a table to take out the curl. I think that would require experience.

Please report back with your results.

 

[gone]

Have you tried calling some of the pro labs that do this consistently and ask what they do? It's a problem, I agree. Fortunately I nearly always print fiber. You could try a vacuum system to suck the paper flat I suppose.

 

[removed account4]

i've had to spool paper and have it train on a spool,
then afterwards when i processed it to get it to go the other
way around ...
it takes a handful of days either way ...

if you need 16x20s get an empty 16x20 envelope and black bag
cut your paper ( a whole bunch it )
stick it in the envelope, even though it will fight you ... stick someplace and leave it there ..
it will eventually relax ... it won't be overnight but it will be flatter

 

[frotog]

Vacuum easel + roller transport. Unless, of course, you prefer the rigors of intensive material handling to printing.

 

[pdeeh]

^ that sounds like a solution only for those with a lot of money to spare

 

[frotog]

You've probably noticed that, thanks to the digital revolution, pro analogue photo equipment is available for next to nothing, if not for free. I doubt it's still possible to blow lots of money on stuff that's considered obsolete/no longer made.

There's no doubt that one can save a ton of money buying roll paper. But what's the point when you don't have adequate gear to deal with it? Without it, you're better served dropping the extra coin on sheets. After all, time is money. Though how you prefer to spend it is entirely up to you.

 

[BetterSense]

I agree, however, I don't think one can buy 40" wide sheets. And, I already have this roll. Maybe I should sell it, and put the money toward 16x20 sheets.

 

[K-G]

FB paper in rolls is just as messy to handle. Once the paper gets wet in the developer it flatens out but it is a pain in the **** to get it there. Unless you want special large sizes, ready made sheets will make life a lot more easy for you.

Karl-Gustaf

 

[walbergb]

I don't have the same problem with rc paper off the roll (single weight) as you describe (until I get close to the core), but I do have a serious problem with my double-weight fb off the roll. Like Matt, I cut to size, place in black plastic photo bags, and leave under weights for weeks or even months. I have learned to work with the curl rather than try to fix it. I manage to crease the paper if I reverse curl or pull it over the edge of the counter.

The key for me is to use earth magnets on the outside blades of my Saunders easels and a steel bar on the bottom blade. I find this holds even the worst of curled paper flat to the easel bed. The steel bar is easy to remove when it comes time to remove the sheet, and I can easily lift the blades with the magnets left in place.

As K-G said, once the print is in the developer, the curl disappears. I use 2 liters in an 11x14 tray, place the print in the developer face down, and gently hold it down as I rock the tray to agitate the developer over/under the print. I find that after 20 seconds for fb paper, I can turn it over and watch the image appear for factoral controlled development.

Having described my methods, I would still recommend buying sheets over rolls. With the prices that I have encountered in the stores, sheets are not only easier and less time consuming to work with, but they are actually cheaper! I have multiple rolls because I took advantage of the opportunity to buy fresh rolls (100'x56") at $99 each . Subsequently, I do lots of experimenting.

 

[frotog]

I agree, however, I don't think one can buy 40" wide sheets. And, I already have this roll. Maybe I should sell it, and put the money toward 16x20 sheets.

For small rolls, I use the method I described above. However, when it comes to mural sized rolls (30" and wider) I resort to using two lengths of 1" x 3/16" flatbar hot roll covered in gaffers tape. I weight one side then unroll paper and weight the opposite side. No need to blue tape the long edges if I have at least two inches of sloppy border as the paper curl flattens out about 1" from the edge. I suppose you could try something similar if you're cutting down your 40" roll to 16x20's or whatever. You might even have success using four lengths of flatbar. You can usually find flatbar in the same area as threaded rod at a well-equiped hardware store.

If rendering 40" to 16x20, your real problem is going to be in making the second cut. You may want to drag a chop saw into your drkrm. and cut the roll in half so you'll have two 20" x 100' rolls. This way you'd only need to make one cut to get your 16x20. If you set things up properly before turning off the lights, this is not as crazy dangerous as it sounds.

 

[Simon R Galley]

All sensible methods suggested, your paper has 'memory' curl and is difficult to eliminate.

One exception is do not apply pressure over an edge like a table, on RC this will 'stress' the paper and may cause 'stress' marks in the final processed print.

Simon ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :