Flat negs

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RPippin

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I seem to be having a tuff time developing film. When I do my own developing in my darkroom, most but not all of the time my negs turn out very flat with little contrast and detail. I shoot mostly Fuji Across 100 or Rollie Retro or Superpan. When I take film to the local developer they come out great, but same film, same camera, same everything from the shooting end, my negatives turn out all washed out. I've checked temps, timing and dilution, used HC110, Rodinal, and other developers with the same results. The only time I got really great negs was with semi stand (Rodinal 1+200) for 40-45 mins. I'm missing something here and it may be something I keep repeating, so I'm willing to start with the assumption that I don't know what I'm doing and start over with some foolproof, basic and simple method. I need to unlearn whatever I keep doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
 

JBrunner

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You are likely under developing, because your particular developer/processing conditions isn't bringing the same activity. Increase exposure (rate the film 1/2 to 1 stop slower, or open up) when you are doing your own developing, or develop for longer. Try adding 30% to your time for starters and go (probably up) from there. Contrast/over exposure is much more forgiving than lack of, so don't be shy. Few developers achieve box speed.
 
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Ian Grant

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If it's flat it's undeveloped, try increasing the development times by 20-25%

I shot APX100 (Rollei Retro) for many years processing in Rodinal with superb results, so the problem is at the development stage. Not all published times give optimum results and the Massive Development chart is rather fallible.

Ian
 

rmolson

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flat negatives

Flat negatives

If you used a 200 to1 dilution and got good results then it isn’t likely that the water you are mixing with is the problem,. But you might want to check not the temperature but the thermometer. They have been known to get out of calibration, If your temperature is very close to 68 degrees and the thermometer is in error and actually reading too high, developer activity can slow down drastically The Massive Developing chart From Digital Truth times should at least put you in the ball park. The standard of 68 degrees was a hold over from the older softer emulsions. Todays films can safely handle 75 degrees .
 

Anscojohn

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Try souping with a more "forgiving" developer until you get things right. I suggest D76 or ID 11 1:1, with standard ASA agitation. If your negs are flat with box speed using D76, you know it is time and temperature that are the problem. HC110 can be hard to measure exactly; and stop dorking around with "semi-stand" and stand bullwinkle until you see what you can do with standard, baseline materials and technique.
 

Sirius Glass

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Replace the developer with fresh chemicals. The developer may have processed too many rolls or just got old [oxidized]

Steve
 

Sirius Glass

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The OP is using one shot developers. and at lest two different type so thats unlikely to be the problem.

Ian

True, but is the original stock is old or oxidized that could be a problem.

Steve
 

Ian Grant

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Both HC110 and Rodinal are unusual in that they don't oxidise & collapse like other developers, people you use Rodinal that's a disgusting colour & it still performs like new :D

Ian
 
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RPippin

RPippin

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Bullwinkle it will be, than. Thanks to all of you, I believe that the time in the developer is probably the issue and will "semi-stand" on my own petard until I get it right...
 

MattKing

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Also:

Make sure that you are using enough of the concentrate. If you don't have enough of the concentrate in your diluted working solution, the developer exhausts before your developing time is up. Sometimes this means that you are forced to use a less diluted working solution (especially if your tanks are small).

I try to use a minimum of 6ml HC110 concentrate per roll, although some are of the opinion that a little bit less will work as well.

Matt
 
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