Andrea - if your paper and chemicals are good, you shouldn't be having so much trouble getting a decent print. f2.8 at 30 sec is a long print time, unless you're making a big print or your negative is really overexposed and dense.
Take a digital snap of your negative held up against a daytime window, or against a bright light. To me, your shots look like they are underexposed, which gives muddy results like you see here. We can speculate about everything else, but seeing your negatives will go a long way for helping you with this.
At 30 secs exposure at f2.8 I cannot help but feel that something is seriously wrong with the amount of light getting to the paper. What that might be, I have no idea. The negative image on the easel should be very strong at f2.8. I think you are saying that you exposed without any filtration so the paper should be giving you about grade 2 and the image of the girl on the boat suggests that a higher grade is needed as the contrast looks too low to me but for all I know if the correct amount of light was getting through to the paper the kind of "fog" I am seeing would disappear
I take it that the aperture on the enlarger lens hasn't stuck at say f11 or f16. Make sure that the lens' aperture is wide open at f2.8 and closes when you move through apertures.
My question is: how do you define your "starting values" for your first test strip? I mean...I have tried with f8 and up to 30sec of exposition with 5sec intervals and Magenta&Yellow filter on 0% but i barely saw the print on the paper hence I have changed the settings as written above.
Try turning your paper right side up.
Post #1 says Ilford MG. OC safelight is OK for this paper.I haven't been through all of the posts in this thread (shame on me), but I have to ask: what paper are you printing on? If I recall correctly, some East European papers don't like an OC safelight and require a red filtered safelight. I ask, because this has bitten me in the past.
You might try a lower dilution and see what happens. Also leave the print in until you cant tell if its getting any darker, just to be sure the development is sufficient. From that point if you get better results you can work back and maybe get a better handle on whats happening.Hi there!
This evening I couldn’t make any print but i can tell you something about my actual process.
I use the PQ Developer from Ilford with 1+9 diluition at 20*: this is what’s prescribed on the bottle, if I am right. It looks like...transparent and incolor. But I am not so sure: I think so but I’ll check.
I am also pretty sure about the fact that I used to print on the right side of the paper and not the other one.
I would do for sure the test suggested by tezzasmall even if I’m not awared by the safelight since it’s really low.
You might try a lower dilution and see what happens. Also leave the print in until you cant tell if its getting any darker, just to be sure the development is sufficient. From that point if you get better results you can work back and maybe get a better handle on whats happening.
From your description of the color it doesnt sound like the developer is oxidised, have you checked for cross contamination in your work process?
That may be but if there is something wrong with the developer this will show it up. We are working a situation where nothing seems to work right so something needs done to show up the weak point.I would not start experimenting with different dilutions and development by sight. Ilford has determined a process which will produce technically correct results, which somehow the OP cannot achieve. 1+9 developing for 2 minutes is what is called for by Ilford and will produce correct results.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?