Fixing Nikkormat EL and Tools Question

[E. von Hoegh]

@flavio81
Yes, the battery lights up just fine, but the camera’s shutter shoots what sounds like m90 for all speeds it is turned to. Same goes for automatic mode.
So with the galvanometer exhausted, in order to generally fix it, would it simply be a galvano-swap?
My guess would be that a repairman or myself have to dig for a galvanometer from another Nikkormat EL, correct? Or will one from a similar camera work?
Thanks.
-Paul

Send the camera to a qualified service person, or trash it - which is what will happen anyway if you try to repair it.

 

[flavio81]

@flavio81
Yes, the battery lights up just fine, but the camera’s shutter shoots what sounds like m90 for all speeds it is turned to. Same goes for automatic mode.
So with the galvanometer exhausted, in order to generally fix it, would it simply be a galvano-swap?

EDIT: it seems i wasn't clear with my initial explanation. "The EL is an electronic camera". This means that shutter timing is *electronic*. Thus, the shutter circuit is receiving no power, and thus the main circuit as well.

 

[PGraham3]

@flavio81
No worries. Makes perfect sense. I appreciate your kind guidance.
If you can spare another moment, would you also be willing to share an opinion on the Fujica ST 605 that posted on this thread a few minutes ago?
-Paul

 

[flavio81]

So what you are saying is that it’s most likely the main circuit that is fried or simply not working, and should simply be replaced?

Paul,

I don't want to be rude, but you really need to read my replies carefully.

I just said that the main circuit is probably receiving no power. This doesn't imply it is "fried" or needs replacement. The electronics of most such cameras are bulletproof, usually problems are corroded cables, contacts, switches, etc.

On a side note... I had a film club student of mine hand me a Fujica ST 605 today in pristine condition, except that the lightmeter does not function. Probably his father’s that had not been used in 30 years. I’m given free reign to do as I please with it. The battery terminal is very clean and all shutter speeds are accurate. Brand new batteries were put in, but lightmeter showed no response.

What would you say is the case here? Another circuit issue?

i imagine the ST 605 could be a more doable fix. What do ya think?
Thanks!
-Paul

This is not an electronic shutter camera, but the light meter has a silicon photo cell (SPC/SPD) which requires a small electronic circuit inside. Also, the meter activates only when you push the stop down button (have you read the manual?!); so there is switch that needs to be reviewed.

 

[PGraham3]

Totally clear now on the Nikkormat. Thanks.

As for the Fujica, I totally understand the camera’s functions. Yeah, figuring the silicon photo cell went out somehow. Thanks.
-Paul

 

[flavio81]

Totally clear now on the Nikkormat. Thanks.

As for the Fujica, I totally understand the camera’s functions. Yeah, figuring the silicon photo cell went out somehow. Thanks.
-Paul

Paul, again, did I suggest that the silicon photo cell went out?!?!

I said "review the switch".

SPC cells rarely (or never?) fail.

For the last time, what fails usually in camera electronics are: 1. contacts and switches, 2. solder joints (which are contacts anyways), 3. electrolytic capacitors (which cameras usually don't have)

I won't help you with camera repair anymore. Sorry, i waste time saying things twice. Read forums or books on camera repair basics. I am just writing the basics, again and again. And read camera manuals or information. Before diagnosing a Nikkormat EL, you must have an idea of its internal operation, like knowing the shutter is electronically controlled.

Don''t attempt to repair cameras if you don't want to analyze things deeply first. You wrongly concluded "the meter is dead" on rhe EL. That's jumping to conclusions. You are now jumping to conclusions saying the SPC cell on the Fujica is dead.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

Paul, again, did I suggest that the silicon photo cell went out?!?!

I said "review the switch".

SPC cells rarely (or never?) fail.

For the last time, what fails usually in camera electronics are: 1. contacts and switches, 2. solder joints (which are contacts anyways), 3. electrolytic capacitors (which cameras usually don't have)

I won't help you with camera repair anymore. Sorry, i waste time saying things twice. Read forums or books on camera repair basics. I am just writing the basics, again and again. And read camera manuals or information. Before diagnosing a Nikkormat EL, you must have an idea of its internal operation, like knowing the shutter is electronically controlled.

Don''t attempt to repair cameras if you don't want to analyze things deeply first. You wrongly concluded "the meter is dead" on rhe EL. That's jumping to conclusions. You are now jumping to conclusions saying the SPC cell on the Fujica is dead.

Also, you stated that the shutter speeds on the 605 are "accurate".
So, unless you measured the speeds, you are presuming their accuracy, right? Cameras do not work on presumption, they work on qualitatively rather simple electronic and mechanical principles, which you need to understand BEFORE you attempt repairs. You also need to learn the basic methods of diagnosis, which are predicated upon solid comprehension of function.

 

[PGraham3]

Of course, learning more about electronic principles would be quite helpful, but I've managed to fix cameras just fine to great working order on numerous occasions. Nothing new for me. I'm simply asking questions and asking for advice/opinions to help with understanding, that's it. It's cool now. Thanks for your assistance. Peace.
-Paul

 

[Svenedin]

Do Derby Bentleys count? How about a DHC Chipmunk with Lucas magnetos? XK Jaguars? Austin Healys? MGs and Triumphs, 2&4 wheels, Norton, BSA (bikes and guns), Vauxhall, etc.
The Brits drink warm beer because Lucas made the refridgerators. Actually the older Lucas stuff was just fine.

We don’t drink “warm” beer. Our beer actually tastes of beer rather than beer that has already been through a human once. As a consequence of the fact our beer has flavour we don’t chill it to the point of it being so cold it becomes tasteless.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

We don’t drink “warm” beer. Our beer actually tastes of beer rather than beer that has already been through a human once. As a consequence of the fact our beer has flavour we don’t chill it to the point of it being so cold it becomes tasteless.

Ok, "relatively warm".
There's a reason Budweiser keeps all those Clydesdales... although I'm told the Shire product is better.
I'm a stout, brown ale, and IPA fan myself

 

[Svenedin]

“Lightly chilled” . I’ve tasted some very good US IPA’s on my travels. PS: I have one of those British cars with Lucas electrics. A Morris Minor. I’ve had it since I was 18. Convertible, later 1098cc OHV (first ones were side-valve). Positive earth. I don’t find the electrics that problematic. The electric SU fuel pump can play up but is reliable if it is stripped down, cleaned and given a new diaphragm and points. Dynamo and starter motor are fairly bomb proof. Voltage regulator can give trouble but usually just dirty contacts. Connections can and do get dirty and corroded and cause trouble. One of the biggest problems is my old car doesn’t get used enough. Old, stale petrol is not good for carburettors, float chambers or fuel pumps. Needles stick and everything gets gummed up.