• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Fixing Nikkormat EL and Tools Question

Send the camera to a qualified service person, or trash it - which is what will happen anyway if you try to repair it.
 

EDIT: it seems i wasn't clear with my initial explanation. "The EL is an electronic camera". This means that shutter timing is *electronic*. Thus, the shutter circuit is receiving no power, and thus the main circuit as well.
 
PGraham3 said:
So what you are saying is that it’s most likely the main circuit that is fried or simply not working, and should simply be replaced?
Click to expand...

Paul,

I don't want to be rude, but you really need to read my replies carefully.

I just said that the main circuit is probably receiving no power. This doesn't imply it is "fried" or needs replacement. The electronics of most such cameras are bulletproof, usually problems are corroded cables, contacts, switches, etc.


This is not an electronic shutter camera, but the light meter has a silicon photo cell (SPC/SPD) which requires a small electronic circuit inside. Also, the meter activates only when you push the stop down button (have you read the manual?!); so there is switch that needs to be reviewed.
 
PGraham3 said:
Totally clear now on the Nikkormat. Thanks.

As for the Fujica, I totally understand the camera’s functions. Yeah, figuring the silicon photo cell went out somehow. Thanks.
-Paul
Click to expand...

Paul, again, did I suggest that the silicon photo cell went out?!?!

I said "review the switch".

SPC cells rarely (or never?) fail.

For the last time, what fails usually in camera electronics are: 1. contacts and switches, 2. solder joints (which are contacts anyways), 3. electrolytic capacitors (which cameras usually don't have)

I won't help you with camera repair anymore. Sorry, i waste time saying things twice. Read forums or books on camera repair basics. I am just writing the basics, again and again. And read camera manuals or information. Before diagnosing a Nikkormat EL, you must have an idea of its internal operation, like knowing the shutter is electronically controlled.

Don''t attempt to repair cameras if you don't want to analyze things deeply first. You wrongly concluded "the meter is dead" on rhe EL. That's jumping to conclusions. You are now jumping to conclusions saying the SPC cell on the Fujica is dead.
 
Last edited:
Also, you stated that the shutter speeds on the 605 are "accurate".
So, unless you measured the speeds, you are presuming their accuracy, right? Cameras do not work on presumption, they work on qualitatively rather simple electronic and mechanical principles, which you need to understand BEFORE you attempt repairs. You also need to learn the basic methods of diagnosis, which are predicated upon solid comprehension of function.
 
Of course, learning more about electronic principles would be quite helpful, but I've managed to fix cameras just fine to great working order on numerous occasions. Nothing new for me. I'm simply asking questions and asking for advice/opinions to help with understanding, that's it. It's cool now. Thanks for your assistance. Peace.
-Paul
 

We don’t drink “warm” beer. Our beer actually tastes of beer rather than beer that has already been through a human once. As a consequence of the fact our beer has flavour we don’t chill it to the point of it being so cold it becomes tasteless.
 
Ok, "relatively warm".
There's a reason Budweiser keeps all those Clydesdales... although I'm told the Shire product is better.
I'm a stout, brown ale, and IPA fan myself
 
“Lightly chilled” . I’ve tasted some very good US IPA’s on my travels. PS: I have one of those British cars with Lucas electrics. A Morris Minor. I’ve had it since I was 18. Convertible, later 1098cc OHV (first ones were side-valve). Positive earth. I don’t find the electrics that problematic. The electric SU fuel pump can play up but is reliable if it is stripped down, cleaned and given a new diaphragm and points. Dynamo and starter motor are fairly bomb proof. Voltage regulator can give trouble but usually just dirty contacts. Connections can and do get dirty and corroded and cause trouble. One of the biggest problems is my old car doesn’t get used enough. Old, stale petrol is not good for carburettors, float chambers or fuel pumps. Needles stick and everything gets gummed up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register