Fixing broken ribbons Pentax SV

[Rumbo181]

I'm in the process of fixing a broken ribbon on a Pentax SV shutter curtain. Apparently, it broke simply because of age.

It doesn't seem feasible to simply replace it, as the edges are not just glued but also inserted under pressure into the drums.

I suppose I'll have to come up with some ingenuity — maybe gluing an overlapping piece of fresh shutter curtain material — but I would be very happy if you could give me some ideas on how to proceed.

Thank you.

 

[OAPOli]

The SV uses a one-piece curtain and ribbon. So the "ribbon" is a bit weaker than usual; mine also broke down with age. On both curtains, shortly apart.

The ribbons and curtains are glued on the drums, not clamped.

In my case I replaced both curtains. In principle you could remove the opening curtain + drums and glue an overlapping piece of ribbon. But the added thickness + bump might affect the winding and release? It's probably better to replace the entire curtain. I would do both because it's a matter of time before the other breaks.

 

[Rumbo181]

Yes, maybe you're right, and in the long run it may end up being more work if I try to avoid doing too much now.

Which kind of comment did you use to glue curtains to drums?.

It's a nice camera. Of course, it's not the pinnacle of sophistication, but I think it deserves to be fixed.

 

[OAPOli]

I used Pliobond. I read B7000 is a good alternative in the EU.

 

[Rumbo181]

I used Pliobond. I read B7000 is a good alternative in the EU.

Many thanks. I already have the curtains and drums disassembled.
From what I can see, B7000 is mainly used as a jewelry adhesive, but thanks a lot — it definitely gives me a direction to investigate.

 

[Rumbo181]

I used Pliobond. I read B7000 is a good alternative in the EU.

Finally, I've just finished the restoration of the camera. Many thanks for your help.

The curtains have been replaced, and the mechanics have been cleaned and adjusted. Now it works smoothly and flawlessly — not bad for a 60-year-old camera.

I think this particular model is a great teacher — albeit a very demanding one — for learning repair skills.

I used rubber cement for the curtains, similar to Pliobond. Actually, the shoemaker next door sold me a small tube. For the edges, which are made of soft metal, I used Tacky Glue. It is still imported by scrapbooking shops. It's flexible, strong, and can be dissolved with water if you need to start again in case of failure.

I'm very happy.

 

[OAPOli]

Congrats! It's not an easy repair but the NatCam guide holds your hand nicely. For me at least.

It's a nice early SLR that's great to use. I wish there were small/light lenses in M42; the Takumars are quite beefy.

 

[blee1996]

It's a nice early SLR that's great to use. I wish there were small/light lenses in M42; the Takumars are quite beefy.

Try the EBC Fujinon 55/1.8: lightweight and compact, sharp, all black. (Although the Fujica ST-801 is a more perfect spouse. )

 

[Rumbo181]

It's true that the Super-Takumar is a little large, but it has a history. I think — with no scientific support, of course — that all those radioactive lenses from that era render a little better than average.

But what really amazed me is the design of the camera. I mean, it’s not an especially sophisticated mechanism, but it’s effective and simple: flange distance very well within tolerance, curtain speeds consistent, the slit between the curtains well maintained... and this is just the foundation for the models that came later. All packaged in a camera built 60 years ago and sold almost as junk at a flea market!

I really admire these engineers.