Fixer w/hardener instead of hardener alone?

[walbergb]

I have a few prints that I want to tone with a ploysulfide homemade toner. Post-treatment calls for time in a hardener bath. I don't have the chemicals to make a hardener bath right now, and I would like to treat the prints before I got the ingredients. I do have lots of Kodak Rapid fixer that has a hardener in it. Would it be okay to fix the treated prints in that instead? Of course I would have to wash>hypo clear>wash the prints again after.

 

[polyglot]

I believe that when you buy Kodak Fixer, it comes as a Part A and Part B where Part A is fixer and Part B is hardener. There are also many other fixer-hardeners available for individual purchase.

It's possible that the hardener may depend on some buffering provided in the fixer, or it might work on its own. I don't know.

I can't see fixer hurting a toned print though, as long as you wash it out properly. Should be easy to test with a little sacrificial print.

 

[Vaughn]

You might just skip the hardener -- never have used it after using Kodak Sepia Toner, even tho the instructions call for it. Just be careful for the print surface while it it wet and the gelatin will eventually harden on its own.

 

[tkamiya]

Somewhere in its documentation, Kodak actually recommends using Kodak Fixer with hardener. I heard somewhere and I'm speaking from memory, the Kodak Rapid Fix hardener cannot be used by itself that it has to be mixed with fixer first.

I used to use Kodak Fixer (with hardener) after brown/sepia toning. I don't anymore. It is said that sulfide toner soften the emulsion. I had no issues. I hear some paper/film are more susceptible to softening and damage. I use Ilford MGIV and Adorama brand. They seem to be OK.

 

[MattKing]

I use Kodak Fixer for just this purpose. Not the Rapid Fixer, the slower "regular" kind.