Fixer testing

[Richard Searle]

In the Ilford Hypam pdf they recommend using sulphide to test adequate fixing and washing. Does this imply that the separate ST (selenium) and HT2 are redundant?

https://www.silverprint.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Ilford-Hypam-Fixer.pdf. Page 6.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

The residual silver test Ilford recommends is the same as Kodak ST-1. It tests for residual silver in the print. It can be replaced by the selenium toner test (Kodak says KRST 1+9, place a drop on a white border or clear portion of film, let stand 2-3 minutes. Any discoloration other than a very faint yellow indicates underfixing).

HT-2 is a test for residual hypo (fixer) and tests adequate washing. It cannot be supplanted by either of the two tests above, which are for residual silver.

I tend to use the selenium test for residual silver and HT-2 for residual hypo.

More here at the Unblinking Eye site: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Archival/archival.html

Best,

Doremus

 

[M Carter]

I got a new, empty nail polish bottle from Amazon - tiny bottle with a brush in the lid. I keep straight selenium toner in it and use to test after fixing - makes it all very easy to apply a tiny droplet. I dunno about 1+9, I figure straight will tell me right away if there's any silver left.

I keep my RHT in the black bottle it came in as it's light-sensitive. I use a 4" white bathroom tile and put a drop on it like a palette, and use a small artist brush to apply to the print. RHT stains like crazy, but it doesn't penetrate the glaze on the tile.

For both tests, leave a trimmable border on the print (or a border that will be covered by a matte). They'll both stain, particularly if you go through later toning steps. Iodine spot-bleaching can often clear the stains unless they're very dark. (Iodine is good if you spill RHT on a stainable surface, it will often clean it up - then use fixer to remove the iodine stain).

 

[Sirius Glass]

I got a new, empty nail polish bottle from Amazon - tiny bottle with a brush in the lid. I keep straight selenium toner in it and use to test after fixing - makes it all very easy to apply a tiny droplet. I dunno about 1+9, I figure straight will tell me right away if there's any silver left.

I keep my RHT in the black bottle it came in as it's light-sensitive. I use a 4" white bathroom tile and put a drop on it like a palette, and use a small artist brush to apply to the print. RHT stains like crazy, but it doesn't penetrate the glaze on the tile.

For both tests, leave a trimmable border on the print (or a border that will be covered by a matte). They'll both stain, particularly if you go through later toning steps. Iodine spot-bleaching can often clear the stains unless they're very dark. (Iodine is good if you spill RHT on a stainable surface, it will often clean it up - then use fixer to remove the iodine stain).

Sounds like a great idea!

 

[MattKing]

I got a new, empty nail polish bottle from Amazon - tiny bottle with a brush in the lid. I keep straight selenium toner in it and use to test after fixing - makes it all very easy to apply a tiny droplet.

Just make sure you don't use it to do your nails .

 

[Sirius Glass]

Just make sure you don't use it to do your nails .

And then chew your nails.

 

[M Carter]

Just make sure you don't use it to do your nails .

But what if I want more density in my nail-shadows...

 

[RalphLambrecht]

In the Ilford Hypam pdf they recommend using sulphide to test adequate fixing and washing. Does this imply that the separate ST (selenium) and HT2 are redundant?

https://www.silverprint.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Ilford-Hypam-Fixer.pdf. Page 6.

they are different tests with a common goal. Tetenal makes a very good test strip which you dip into the fixer and it will tell you the silver content. I find this to be the most reliable test. But doing any one of them is enough.

 

[RauschenOderKorn]

they are different tests with a common goal. Tetenal makes a very good test strip which you dip into the fixer and it will tell you the silver content. I find this to be the most reliable test. But doing any one of them is enough.

These test strips show the silver content and ph of the fixer, so you can replace it before it has any adverse effects on archival. It will not show if a print/film has been fixed sufficiently.

The tests op is writing about show if the fixing and washing was effective. But it will not show if the fixer is still good for archival or might be up for replacement.

 

[M Carter]

These test strips show the silver content and ph of the fixer, so you can replace it before it has any adverse effects on archival. It will not show if a print/film has been fixed sufficiently.
The tests op is writing about show if the fixing and washing was effective. But it will not show if the fixer is still good for archival or might be up for replacement.

This primarily deals with older papers like Ektalure, which I treat with great paranoia - "when they're gone, they're gone" - but no fixing test I've done accurately shows if the specific print is adequately fixed, without any more fixing than necessary, like testing the emulsion of the specific print itself with selenium. Even strip-testing Ektalure or PWT before printing begins tends to say "30 seconds and done", yet the emulsion still spots after 90 seconds. YMMV and we all have unique processes, but - just like RHT for wash testing - I feel it's the most sensible way - though MGWT reliably fixes quickly, even in aging fix. But I still test the print!

Curious though, if anyone can point out an issue with straight-selenium on the print border that I'm not considering?

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Kodak recommends diluting KRST 1+9 for the test. When used full strength the toner may give a false positive.

 

[Sirius Glass]

they are different tests with a common goal. Tetenal makes a very good test strip which you dip into the fixer and it will tell you the silver content. I find this to be the most reliable test. But doing any one of them is enough.

These test strips show the silver content and ph of the fixer, so you can replace it before it has any adverse effects on archival. It will not show if a print/film has been fixed sufficiently.

The tests op is writing about show if the fixing and washing was effective. But it will not show if the fixer is still good for archival or might be up for replacement.

How does that compare with using test solution in drops?

 

[RauschenOderKorn]

How does that compare with using test solution in drops?

It doesn't. That is the point.

The test strips help you to determine how many residuals are in the fixer to decide when to change. But if you have good fixer and respect the fixing times, you should be on the safe side.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

The residual silver test Ilford recommends is the same as Kodak ST-1. It tests for residual silver in the print. It can be replaced by the selenium toner test (Kodak says KRST 1+9, place a drop on a white border or clear portion of film, let stand 2-3 minutes. Any discoloration other than a very faint yellow indicates underfixing).

HT-2 is a test for residual hypo (fixer) and tests adequate washing. It cannot be supplanted by either of the two tests above, which are for residual silver.

I tend to use the selenium test for residual silver and HT-2 for residual hypo.

More here at the Unblinking Eye site: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Archival/archival.html

Best,

Doremus

very good and rarely understood point!