I got a new, empty nail polish bottle from Amazon - tiny bottle with a brush in the lid. I keep straight selenium toner in it and use to test after fixing - makes it all very easy to apply a tiny droplet. I dunno about 1+9, I figure straight will tell me right away if there's any silver left.
I keep my RHT in the black bottle it came in as it's light-sensitive. I use a 4" white bathroom tile and put a drop on it like a palette, and use a small artist brush to apply to the print. RHT stains like crazy, but it doesn't penetrate the glaze on the tile.
For both tests, leave a trimmable border on the print (or a border that will be covered by a matte). They'll both stain, particularly if you go through later toning steps. Iodine spot-bleaching can often clear the stains unless they're very dark. (Iodine is good if you spill RHT on a stainable surface, it will often clean it up - then use fixer to remove the iodine stain).
Just make sure you don't use it to do your nailsI got a new, empty nail polish bottle from Amazon - tiny bottle with a brush in the lid. I keep straight selenium toner in it and use to test after fixing - makes it all very easy to apply a tiny droplet.
Just make sure you don't use it to do your nails.
Just make sure you don't use it to do your nails.
they are different tests with a common goal. Tetenal makes a very good test strip which you dip into the fixer and it will tell you the silver content. I find this to be the most reliable test. But doing any one of them is enough.In the Ilford Hypam pdf they recommend using sulphide to test adequate fixing and washing. Does this imply that the separate ST (selenium) and HT2 are redundant?
https://www.silverprint.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Ilford-Hypam-Fixer.pdf. Page 6.
they are different tests with a common goal. Tetenal makes a very good test strip which you dip into the fixer and it will tell you the silver content. I find this to be the most reliable test. But doing any one of them is enough.
These test strips show the silver content and ph of the fixer, so you can replace it before it has any adverse effects on archival. It will not show if a print/film has been fixed sufficiently.
The tests op is writing about show if the fixing and washing was effective. But it will not show if the fixer is still good for archival or might be up for replacement.
they are different tests with a common goal. Tetenal makes a very good test strip which you dip into the fixer and it will tell you the silver content. I find this to be the most reliable test. But doing any one of them is enough.
These test strips show the silver content and ph of the fixer, so you can replace it before it has any adverse effects on archival. It will not show if a print/film has been fixed sufficiently.
The tests op is writing about show if the fixing and washing was effective. But it will not show if the fixer is still good for archival or might be up for replacement.
How does that compare with using test solution in drops?
very good and rarely understood point!The residual silver test Ilford recommends is the same as Kodak ST-1. It tests for residual silver in the print. It can be replaced by the selenium toner test (Kodak says KRST 1+9, place a drop on a white border or clear portion of film, let stand 2-3 minutes. Any discoloration other than a very faint yellow indicates underfixing).
HT-2 is a test for residual hypo (fixer) and tests adequate washing. It cannot be supplanted by either of the two tests above, which are for residual silver.
I tend to use the selenium test for residual silver and HT-2 for residual hypo.
More here at the Unblinking Eye site: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Archival/archival.html
Best,
Doremus
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