Fix Screw Up: TMax 400 at ISO 125"

[Two23]

OK, forgot to attach film box lid to a camera and assumed it had my standard FP4+ and shot it at ISO 125. Turns out it was TMax 400! Can't find anything on Massive Development Chart about how to process this. My developer is HC-110. Has anyone successfully processed TMax400 at ISO 125?


Kent in SD

 

[JPD]

I would just develop it for around 30% shorter time than the usual time for 400.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

It's only one and two thirds stops more exposure. Nothing to worry about. I would reduce development. By how much, I couldn't tell you as only you know what kind of subject luminance ranges are on the film. The 30% reduction mentioned above may be a good place to start. Anywhere from 20% to 30%. 25%?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Thinking about it a bit more, while I eat this bag of salt n vinegar crisps from UK, I would probably not go higher than 20% less development time. These crisps are making me thirsty!

 

[Two23]

I've been shooting in very heavy overcast the past two days. Forgot to mention I use dilution B, but that shouldn't matter I guess.


Kent in SD

 

[JPD]

Thinking about it a bit more, while I eat this bag of salt n vinegar crisps from UK, I would probably not go higher than 20% less development time. These crisps are making me thirsty!

The acidity from the crisps would slow down the development somewhat, but it isn't certain that the OP, Two23, is eating crisps as well. Or chips as they are called in the US.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Thinking about it a bit more, while I eat this bag of salt n vinegar crisps from UK, I would probably not go higher than 20% less development time. These crisps are making me thirsty!

Try some beer. Your timing adjust sound correct.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Me no like beer.

 

[JPD]

I've been shooting in very heavy overcast the past two days. Forgot to mention I use dilution B, but that shouldn't matter I guess.


Kent in SD

Dilution B is a very standard dilution. Heavy overcast means lower contrast, so Andrew's suggestion sounds good. 20% less development time. It will adjust the contrast enough, and if it needs more adjustment you can do it while printing or scanning.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Me no like beer.

Gin? Wine?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

The acidity from the crisps would slow down the development somewhat, but it isn't certain that the OP, Two23, is eating crisps as well. Or chips as they are called in the US.

We call them chips up here as well... which is weird because chips are what go on a plate with your fish

 

[Sirius Glass]

Crisps, chips, ... I call the fries.

 

[Two23]

Processed with HC110 for 5:20 at 66 F degrees, dilution B. (If I had gone with 68 F the time would have gone below 5 minutes.) I did get images. Seem to be a bit light but will scan them when dry.


Kent in SD

 

[Doremus Scudder]

The only reason to reduce development if you overexpose film is if you've overexposed so much that the highlights will block up on the shoulder of the film's curve. That won't happen with most modern films until you've overexposed 3-4 stops (or more).

Develop normally. You'll end up with a dense negative and you'll have a longer print exposure time. That's all. If you have really small film or are making a huge enlargement, there will be more grain. That's the price of overexposure.

If you reduce development and then print contrastier, grain will be worse.

FWIW, I've got a couple of (unintentionally) overexposed negatives that print black white when making a proper proof and that make stunning prints. I overexpose 320Tri-X intentionally too at times by a stop or a bit more to get shadow values up onto the straight(er) line portion of the curve. No problems ever developing N or even N+1.

Best,

Doremus