fix foam board to print mount

Discussion in 'Presentation & Marketing' started by FerruB, May 11, 2018.

  1. FerruB

    FerruB Member

    Messages:
    86
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2017
    Location:
    Manchester
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Hi guys,
    I have to prepare a number of 16x20 print dry mounted to a 1.4mm board which will be shipped unframed.
    Now, to keep the print and mount board really flat I want to back it with a 5mm foam board. The foam board is coated with paper.
    My stupid question - How will you fix the boards together? Neutral pH EVA glue would be fine?
    Cheers
    Ferru
     
  2. jtk

    jtk Subscriber

    Messages:
    657
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2007
    Location:
    Albuquerque, New Mexico
    Shooter:
    35mm
    I've used "YES PASTE" for that, as well as some version of 3M spray adhesive. Both require caution to protect photo surface...YES is water soluble, spray adhesive means no ability to clean any overspray whatsoever.
     
  3. jeffreyg

    jeffreyg Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,823
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2008
    Location:
    florida
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    I wouldn't glue the mount board to the foam board. Are the prints/mount board going to have a window cover mat and end up in frames ? If it is only for protection for shipping you could sandwich all between two foam boards or for more protection between to pieces of Masonite and be sure to have all in a water tight covering. You can use interleaving paper over the actual print surfaces as well.

    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
     
  4. OP
    OP
    FerruB

    FerruB Member

    Messages:
    86
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2017
    Location:
    Manchester
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Thank you guys for the suggestions

    Spray glue doesn't convince me...is the 3M spray adhesive archival? On the other side, my concern with liquid glue it is the difficulty to spread a nice and homogeneous layer on such a large surface without soaking the substrate...

    The mounted print is bowing outwards, meaning that if framed the print may end up touching the glass. In addition (IMO) the backing foam-core will improve the general appearance of mounted print...making it less "flimsy". Why would you avoid to glue the mount board to the foamcore board?
    Cheers
    Ferru
     
  5. jeffreyg

    jeffreyg Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,823
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2008
    Location:
    florida
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    As I mentioned above I would not glue the mat/print to the foam board. Use a window mat and when framed a backing board can be placed behind the mat/print. I suspect that when the prints were dry mounted they were not placed under a cooling plate and/or weighted down while cooling. Although it is probably too late now consider 4 ply mat board for dry mounting especially with large prints. I have generally stopped dry mounting and rather use archival corners and 4 ply board. If the mat board is somehow damaged, so much for the print. Also, when you have a number of dry mounted prints more storage space is needed. A 16x20 print (IMO) usually looks best on a 20x24 board and many prints look really nice with an 8 ply window mat. If the prints are to be framed with aluminum section frames you need ones that will accommodate the backing board, mat board/print, window mat and glass.

    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
     
,