First Tri-X Negs from Fomadon R09 (Rodinal)

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I developed some shots that were made 7 months ago using a Kodak Retina Ia w/ Xenar 50 3.5 lens (yellow filter and Tri-X). This is the first time I've used Fomadon R09. 1+25 dilution and 7 1/2 minutes at 68 degrees w/ gentle agitation for 30 seconds, one inversion every 30 seconds after that. I like it, but it sure is different than my usual D76. Here's the positives: The developer went in brown and came out purple! Neat. It's one shot, which is great for consistency. There's grain, but it's attractive in my eyes. In 120 it should be much finer. People complain about flat negs when using this w/ high speed film but I didn't have that problem.

Here's the one negative: It isn't a very sharp developer, at least w/ Tri-X. I've used this camera and film combination w/ D76 and Acufine in the past, and both gave sharper images. I'll try it again w/ my Leica lens and see if that improves things :]

Unless my memory is making this up, I seem to remember reading that the dilution isn't going to change the sharpness/grain, it will only affect the developing times. True?

 

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Well, we'll see. I have another roll washing now that was developed 1+50, and if I can get out tomorrow and finish the roll in my newly refurbished Canon FTb, I'll develop it at 1+100. Sure would make for a long development time that way though.

 

[StoneNYC]

Looks sharp to me, there's a difference between sharp and fine grained.

Rodinal is a sharp developer but will show more grain than other developers, especially with films that are already NOT fine grained like 400TX.

But those images look great to me.

Rodinal is one of the most versatile developers, it also means everything you do to it, will change it's affect on your film.

If you shake it a lot during agitation it will change from if you are delicate with your inversions, if you invert It very slowly and only do one inversion over the 10 seconds over inverting fast 3 times it will look different and the grain will change.

Dilutions will change it again, and each film favors a certain dilution, tmax may favor 1:25, and 400TX may favor 1:50 etc etc.

Temps will also change it again significantly.

Keep at it and find what you like best.

 

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Thanks for the good vibes Stone, but they aren't up to the D76/Acufine development schemes of mine. That's some darned interesting stuff you posted though. Seems you can get what you like if you stick to it, but I'm too dumb and lazy for that. It's back to D76.

I did these just now at 1:50. Guess what....flat, grainy negs! So that's how you do it. At 1:25 they were pretty nice, though not as sharp (or however it's called) as I expected. At 1:50 things look pretty bad. The negs are thin and a little underdeveloped too w/ light edge markings. I developed these for 14 minutes at 68 degrees w/ the same agitation scheme as above, so from now on I'll stick to a 1:25 dilution w/ this developer. These are from a Nikkormat FT2 w/ AI 50 2.0 lens and red filter.

I'm going to buy another one of those Retinas w/ the bottom of the line Xenar 50 3.5 lenses. I prefer the way that old Xenar images to the more modern Nikkor lens, and the grain at 1:25 dilution is beautiful. The car is a Morgan by the way.

 

[StoneNYC]

Thanks for the good vibes Stone, but they aren't up to the D76/Acufine development schemes of mine. That's some darned interesting stuff you posted though. Seems you can get what you like if you stick to it, but I'm too dumb and lazy for that. It's back to D76.

I did these just now at 1:50. Guess what....flat, grainy negs! So that's how you do it. At 1:25 they were pretty nice, though not as sharp (or however it's called) as I expected. At 1:50 things look pretty bad. The negs are thin and a little underdeveloped too w/ light edge markings. I developed these for 14 minutes at 68 degrees w/ the same agitation scheme as above, so from now on I'll stick to a 1:25 dilution w/ this developer. These are from a Nikkormat FT2 w/ AI 50 2.0 lens and red filter.

I'm going to buy another one of those Retinas w/ the bottom of the line Xenar 50 3.5 lenses. I prefer the way that old Xenar images to the more modern Nikkor lens, and the grain at 1:25 dilution is beautiful. The car is a Morgan by the way.

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Well don't fully give up the Rodinal that open bottle will keep easily for 5 years or longer, it will turn brown, but that's normal and means nothing in terms of it's viability.

It's also good for unexpected things, like stand developing with something like C-41 film if you scan. Or some poorly developed B&W thing, semi-stand developing in Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour (1 agitation every 20 minites). Will give you usable negs.

It's good for a lot of things. But yes it can be grainy, it's best used on 100ASA or less films that are already fine grained. I use it for both FP4+ and PanF+ and when shooting 4x5 I'm fine using it for HP5+ but my favorite is Acros100 in Rodinal 1:50.

I don't shoot Tri-X because they don't make it in 4x5 so enjoy the D-76.

I don't do D-76 because I can't mix it in a 1L bottle which to me is a pain. I have a bag I've been meaning to try it, but mostly I stick to liquid developers. HC-110 (which is supposed to give a similar look to D-76), Ilfsol 3, Rodinal, and my favorite which is DD-X, pricey but worth it!

Best of luck!

 

[Xmas]

Well don't fully give up the Rodinal that open bottle will keep easily for 5 years or longer, it will turn brown, but that's normal and means nothing in terms of it's viability.

It's also good for unexpected things, like stand developing with something like C-41 film if you scan. Or some poorly developed B&W thing, semi-stand developing in Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour (1 agitation every 20 minites). Will give you usable negs.

It's good for a lot of things. But yes it can be grainy, it's best used on 100ASA or less films that are already fine grained. I use it for both FP4+ and PanF+ and when shooting 4x5 I'm fine using it for HP5+ but my favorite is Acros100 in Rodinal 1:50.

I don't shoot Tri-X because they don't make it in 4x5 so enjoy the D-76.

I don't do D-76 because I can't mix it in a 1L bottle which to me is a pain. I have a bag I've been meaning to try it, but mostly I stick to liquid developers. HC-110 (which is supposed to give a similar look to D-76), Ilfsol 3, Rodinal, and my favorite which is DD-X, pricey but worth it!

Best of luck!

HiStone

Formapan400 in Rodinal @ 320 1:100 stand - nice big grain, people say that agitation makes grain bigger but Im happy with stand never tried agitation
I've used up a half full bottle of Rodinal after 25 years still had the preservative crud at the bottom.
I mix ID11 in a 1litre bottle all you need is a dry funnel or cut the top of a plastic bottle, and invert to get the powder in ~ Note ID11 is D76… I've used a paper cone when the funnel goes AWOL.
Microphen gives the same style of grain as D76 but lower fog levels if you are pushing.

Noel

 

[StoneNYC]

HiStone

Formapan400 in Rodinal @ 320 1:100 stand - nice big grain, people say that agitation makes grain bigger but Im happy with stand never tried agitation
I've used up a half full bottle of Rodinal after 25 years still had the preservative crud at the bottom.
I mix ID11 in a 1litre bottle all you need is a dry funnel or cut the top of a plastic bottle, and invert to get the powder in ~ Note ID11 is D76… I've used a paper cone when the funnel goes AWOL.
Microphen gives the same style of grain as D76 but lower fog levels if you are pushing.

Noel

Thanks, the d-76 comes in a single bag though so it's not easy to "cut up" and that's one of the pains for me, and many warn of the developer dust in the and I mix in my kitchen... So, not a good idea for powder. It's also currently -3 degrees Fahrenheit outside, so not fond of mixing outside either haha. I'll get to it eventually, I've got an old can too that's at least 20 years old so I wanted to compare it to a new bag to see if they differ, as well as a can of DK-50 I've been meaning to try.

 

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I like that Rodinal shelf life! My D76 gets "funny" after a month, and that seems to be a well documented thing w/ it. Otherwise, the tones it gives me are just wonderful, so I'm sticking w/ it. Acufine I love too, but it's not like D76 on the tones. I will order some of the D76 type developer next month from Photographer's Formulary that has one of the problem chemicals removed, and is advertised as being stable for 6 months. HC 110 is also supposed to be similar to D76, but for now I'll stay w/ what works.

They make Tri-X in 4x5 Stone. My few outings w/ LF were shot w/ that. Beautiful, beautiful film in that format. The grain and tonal scale have to be seen to be believed. That's the beauty of Tr-X. In 35mm, 120 and 4x5 you will get totally different looks due to the grain smoothing out. Myself I like the grain in 35mm and often have to bump things up in developing to give me more of it.

 

[StoneNYC]

I like that Rodinal shelf life! My D76 gets "funny" after a month, and that seems to be a well documented thing w/ it. Otherwise, the tones it gives me are just wonderful, so I'm sticking w/ it. Acufine I love too, but it's not like D76 on the tones. I will order some of the D76 type developer next month from Photographer's Formulary that has one of the problem chemicals removed, and is advertised as being stable for 6 months. HC 110 is also supposed to be similar to D76, but for now I'll stay w/ what works.

They make Tri-X in 4x5 Stone. My few outings w/ LF were shot w/ that. Beautiful, beautiful film in that format. The grain and tonal scale have to be seen to be believed. That's the beauty of Tr-X. In 35mm, 120 and 4x5 you will get totally different looks due to the grain smoothing out. Myself I like the grain in 35mm and often have to bump things up in developing to give me more of it.

Incorrect, they make Tri-X Professional 320 ASA film (TXP), whereas in 35mm and 120 they only make 400TX (TX) which is a higher grain film, but has a different "curve" than TXP, I prefer the TX look despite the grain, but would like it best shot on 4x5 which would give the same look but lessen the grain obviously, however TXP does not look the same to me (and certainly is different tonality and exposure and development wise they are different) and so this is why I don't use it, I don't want to have to adjust per size. Etc.

 

[Xmas]

Hi

Please don't mix powder developer in kitchen.
If you don't understand organic chemistry or allergic reactions or the hazchm warnings it is potentially dangerous.

It is safer to store tooth brushes in medicine chest and mix leaning over edge of bath or shower tray sitting on floor.

If you have any spillage rinse out bath or shower tray immediately and afterwards even if you don't.

Best to wear nitrile gloves as well even with the solutions.

Skin is pretty porous.

 

[Xmas]

Incorrect, they make Tri-X Professional 320 ASA film (TXP), whereas in 35mm and 120 they only make 400TX (TX) which is a higher grain film, but has a different "curve" than TXP, I prefer the TX look despite the grain, but would like it best shot on 4x5 which would give the same look but lessen the grain obviously, however TXP does not look the same to me (and certainly is different tonality and exposure and development wise they are different) and so this is why I don't use it, I don't want to have to adjust per size. Etc.

They used to do the 320pro in 220 so there might be some residual stocks.

 

[StoneNYC]

Hi

Please don't mix powder developer in kitchen.
If you don't understand organic chemistry or allergic reactions or the hazchm warnings it is potentially dangerous.

It is safer to store tooth brushes in medicine chest and mix leaning over edge of bath or shower tray sitting on floor.

If you have any spillage rinse out bath or shower tray immediately and afterwards even if you don't.

Best to wear nitrile gloves as well even with the solutions.

Skin is pretty porous.

Thanks, and yes I'm aware, I always develop with nitrous gloves and wear a mask for chemicals.

 

[StoneNYC]

They used to do the 320pro in 220 so there might be some residual stocks.

Yes I know, I've seen some, it used to come in 120 and 220 but hasn't for many years, the stuff I have found is fogged etc. It's nice, but would rather just shoot HP5+ in sheet or TMY-2 depending on what I'm doing, and HP5+ is so versatile, if it were just a LITTLE bit finer grained, I wouldn't use anything else but that for most of my work, it can be shot and dev'd from 200-3200 I mean wow! And great results!

Anyway we are getting off topic here.

 

[Xmas]

Thanks, the d-76 comes in a single bag though so it's not easy to "cut up" and that's one of the pains for me, and many warn of the developer dust in the and I mix in my kitchen... So, not a good idea for powder. It's also currently -3 degrees Fahrenheit outside, so not fond of mixing outside either haha. I'll get to it eventually, I've got an old can too that's at least 20 years old so I wanted to compare it to a new bag to see if they differ, as well as a can of DK-50 I've been meaning to try.

Sorry I misunderstood

It is not desirable to separate powder as it may not be uniform so I buy the Ilford 1l packages of ID11 or Microphen much more expensive unless you let the larger volumes expire.

Most of the time I weigh up powders for ID68 which is an analogue of Microphen. Wont do that for ID11 don't like metol risks, buy it prepackaged.

 

[StoneNYC]

Sorry I misunderstood

It is not desirable to separate powder as it may not be uniform so I buy the Ilford 1l packages of ID11 or Microphen much more expensive unless you let the larger volumes expire.

Most of the time I weigh up powders for ID68 which is an analogue of Microphen. Wont do that for ID11 don't like metol risks, buy it prepackaged.

Oh! Didn't know ID-11 came in 1L packets good to know! Thanks. Be well!