First time with stainless steel tanks

[OptiKen]

I recently purchased some Kinderman SS tanks and reels from Mark (mfohl on APUG - don't have his last name). Great guy to deal with.
Anyway, I've never used SS tanks and reels before-I've always used the plastic type.

This morning I tried to load a roll of film I keep around for practice and it went pretty easy so I loaded 2 small tanks with a roll of 35mm each and one small tank with a roll of 120. Now I realize I have no idea as to the capacity of these tanks or how much solution I should use in them. I also have a couple of the large tanks that hold (4) 35mm reels - (5) if you don't leave any space on top.

Would someone tell me how much solution you should use in these tanks?

Thanks in advance

Ken

 

[markbarendt]

http://www.argraph.com/cat-sect/Sect-E/e-4-28w.pdf

I'd mix 500ml just to be safe.

 

[Truzi]

If you can remove the reels from the tank and put them somewhere light-tight, you can fill the tanks with water (without the cap) to the top edge, then measure the volume. The cap should give enough ullage for movement of developer when agitating.

If you have spare reels, put them in, and fill until the water just covers them - this would be a better measure.

Then you can decide how much developer to mix up, and premeasure it before you pour it into the tanks.

 

[Vaughn]

If your processing includes a pre-rinse, just fill the tank with water and measure it when you pour it out.

 

[Rick A]

Stainless tanks are listed in ounces, 16 fluid ounces for the 120/2x35 mm tank, and 8 fluid ounces for the single 35 mm tank. In my experience, if you round up to ML, you over fill slightly and don't get proper agitation.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Stainless tanks are listed in ounces, 16 fluid ounces for the 120/2x35 mm tank, and 8 fluid ounces for the single 35 mm tank.

Yes. If in doubt fill the open tank and then pour the water into a measuring cup or cylinder. I used steel tanks exclusively for decades until I started using the Jobo processors. Steel tanks require a bit of ingenuity to process color film.

 

[AgX]

5 reels if you don't leave any space on top.

For inverting agitation one needs some air space at the top.

For rotary agitation though it the should work with those 5 reels. If the tank remains tight.

 

[Arvee]

With SS tanks do this test: it is best to put in the reels and fill with water so it just covers the top of the reels but leaves an 1/8 to 1/4 inch to the top edge of the tank. Pour this amount back into your graduate and record the value for future use.

If you have a poorly fitting lid and fill to the top, there is a good chance the liquid will wick into the lid/tank joint and be dripping down the sides of the tank. Gets kinda messy!

 

[Gerald C Koch]

It is my experience that each 35mm roll requires 235 ml of solution minimum. This allows for some air space for agitation. Using 500ml for 2 rolls seems too much solution.

16 oz X 30.6 ml /oz = 474 ml

 

[Arvee]

It is my experience that each 35mm roll requires 235 ml of solution minimum. This allows for some air space for agitation. Using 500ml for 2 rolls seems too much solution.

16 oz X 30.6 ml /oz = 474 ml

Agree! I've been using 235 for many years.

 

[mklw1954]

I've always used stainless reels and tanks and use 8 oz. (240 ml) for each 35mm film reel and 14 oz. (420 ml) for each 120 film reel, and never had problems.

(1 gallon = 3.7854 liters = 3,785 ml; 1 gallon also = 128 oz., so 29.6 ml/oz., say 30 ml/oz. or the 30.6 ml/oz. cited.)

 

[Terry Christian]

I always figure 250 ml per 35mm reel for stainless and 300 ml per reel for plastic. Double for 120.

 

[MartinP]

I've always used stainless reels and tanks and use 8 oz. (240 ml) for each 35mm film reel and 14 oz. (420 ml) for each 120 film reel, and never had problems.

(1 gallon = 3.7854 liters = 3,785 ml; 1 gallon also = 128 oz., so 29.6 ml/oz., say 30 ml/oz. or the 30.6 ml/oz. cited.)

In case anyone looks here in the future, the gallons referred to above are US-gallons (16oz per pint) not Imperial gallons (20oz per pint).

 

[Sirius Glass]

Frankly when given a choice I would rather drink an Imperial pint than the US Standard pint of brew. But that is just me.

:munch::munch::munch::munch::munch:​

 

[OptiKen]

Frankly when given a choice I would rather drink an Imperial pint than the US Standard pint of brew. But that is just me.

:munch::munch::munch::munch::munch:​

It gets worse in the states. Now, they seem to think a pint is only 12 oz

 

[Sirius Glass]

Frankly when given a choice I would rather drink an Imperial pint than the US Standard pint of brew. But that is just me.

:munch::munch::munch::munch::munch:​

It gets worse in the states. Now, they seem to think a pint is only 12 oz

Even worse some states [not to mention any by name, Utah] water down the beer and call it near beer. All that does is make the beer steps closer to the final filtered product that we produce after we proceed it.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

Advise post #3. Use your paper safe or plastic tank with something light tight covering it. Keep light low or off.

Just cover the reel.

8 oz works well for 35 mm stainless. If it is a two reel tank, put blank reel on top and use 8 oz. Agitate by inversion. You will get beautiful negs. Basically this is the same process as sheet film on hangars so don `t listen to BS about surge marks etc.

Best practice is to drop the reels into tank already filled with developer. In the dark naturally.