Kodak is not the same and requires much longer times.
Kodak Fixer, that is.
I use Ilford Rapid Fixer. 15 minutes?? Wow, I have never once fixed for more than 5 minutes. And I have shot a lot of T-Grain film in TMAX400. Never had an issue. Clearing times for my film are always around the 2 minute mark or faster so I figure 5 minutes is plenty.
The best solution I've found is C-41 fixer - it's residual dye you're seeing, & either C-41 fix & a good wash or regular fix & the Ilford wash sequence with standing intervals after each agitation to enable the dye to diffuse out are both good approaches. The C-41 fix is so effective in getting the dye out that it usually comes out of the tank purple or whatever colour the dyes are. Great with Kodak films etc too, though I'd be wary about using it on Foma.
No need for pre-washes of any extent, or any of the more eccentric (& pointless) things people tend to suggest.
I like Delta 100 vastly better than Acros - it's one of my absolute favourite films. Main thing you should be looking at is getting your development time down to 4-5mins at 20c at 1+31 in HC-110 - though I'd strongly suggest 1+47 or more & an adjusted dev time for better consistency. Delta 100 & ID-11/D-76 is an excellent combination too & the grain is actually quite beautiful if you don't develop it in something stupid for grossly excessive periods.
I had a love/hate relationship with Acros. But one thing I could say is that it cleared like glass.
I use Ilford Rapid Fixer. 15 minutes?? Wow, I have never once fixed for more than 5 minutes. And I have shot a lot of T-Grain film in TMAX400. Never had an issue. Clearing times for my film are always around the 2 minute mark or faster so I figure 5 minutes is plenty.
It’s standard Kodak professional fixer. It’s not a rapid fixer. The standard fix time is 5-10 minutes with most films and 2-4 minutes with paper. I’m not a fan of rapid fixers.
I like using Dilution E for HC-110. What time would you recommend at 20C?
You should really be using rapid fixers with most films on the market today, especially the current generation controlled crystal growth ones like Delta, TMAX etc - their higher iodide content makes it questionable as to whether sodium thiosulfate fixers are really able to adequately fix them. Colour neg is even more demanding & potassium thiocyanate is used alongside ammonium thiosulfate in current C-41 fixes.
Questionable eh? According to who? It doesn’t seem to be questionable to Kodak with their own films.
Grant Haist in 'Modern Photographic Processing', vol 1.
I can say when I develop 4x5 TMY2, the pink stain comes out in my wash water, I wash about 20 minutes, passing the film back and forth between two 5x7 white enamel trays of fresh wash water at 68 to 72 degrees F.
It seems that the pink is gone by the fourth or fifth pass, it goes faster when the water is warmer. But it definitely washes out from Kodak film.
I hope you find the same but since the brands are different I know there might be no way to tell.
As you said, you wash your film by agitating and dumping the water. If you'd just let it stand there after agitating, it would release dyes in the wash water. An otherwise "clean" film can turn water pink if left for 15 minutes for example, but it also depends on the film itself. TMax films will do so.Weird. I've never noticed pink when I developed TMAX400. It's been quite a long time since I used that film regularly but for many many years that was my go-to film for anything Acros could not handle so I did use quite a lot of it. Maybe developing in DD-X helped wash out any pink.
Which fixer are you using? I use Kodak fixer and always fix t-grain film for 15 minutes with constant agitation. I also wash for at least 15-20 minutes with a tube stuck down the middle of the canister with the water flow just fast enough to fill the canister in 60 seconds and dump the canister at 5 minute marks.
Kodak is not the same and requires much longer times.
Kodak powder fixer has the annoying property of losing its efficacy after two months.
It’s because I tray develop and turn on the lights after the fix step. So I see the film when it’s pink. And the white porcelain makes it more apparent.Weird. I've never noticed pink when I developed TMAX400. It's been quite a long time since I used that film regularly but for many many years that was my go-to film for anything Acros could not handle so I did use quite a lot of it. Maybe developing in DD-X helped wash out any pink.
TF2 for me and no problems either. I starting using TF2 when I went to pyro developers, but it works great with all the films I've tried it with. I like making my own fixer. Is it cheaper than store bought? Not really, but I still like making my own anyway. JohnWWhen I used Delta films, I used TF4 and TF3 for 4 minutes, followed by a 20 minute running tap water wash. Never any problems.
J
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