First move into MF with Mamiya 6x7

[Skeeterfx20]

Well to be honest I was using a Yashice since Thanksgiving and that gave me the urge. I just bought a Mamiya RB 67 PRO SD. I should receive it by the middle of next week. I'm mostly a slide person. In addition I do all of my E6 processing. It just so simple a cheap to do your own E6.

I am excited but I still have to get a few items, most of all a decent light meter. I have been using the Yashica with out one. I have either been very good figuring out my exposure or very lucky. However I think it's time for a light meter.

Anyone have any tips for this body? The lens is a 90mm f3.5 KL K/L, which with my great knowledge doesn't mean much to me right now.

Would love to see some photos of slides if any one has them.

Other than just enjoying the raw slides I don't know if I will even mount them or invest in a projector

Yes I will shoot regular color and black and white film too. Subjects? Anything and everything.

 

[MattKing]

If you are thinking about projecting slides, the 6x4.5 backs or the very rare 6x6 backs will greatly expand your access to projectors.
My only tips would be to read the manual carefully, and become familiar with how the interlocks work.
If you are like me, you should look for the left handed trigger grip - it makes handhold use much more practical.
And if the camera won't fire when you expect it to, check that the dark slide has been removed, and that the rotating back is fully in either the landscape or portrait position - in the middle doesn't work.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

If you are thinking about projecting slides, the 6x4.5 backs or the very rare 6x6 backs will greatly expand your access to projectors.
My only tips would be to read the manual carefully, and become familiar with how the interlocks work.
If you are like me, you should look for the left handed trigger grip - it makes handhold use much more practical.
And if the camera won't fire when you expect it to, check that the dark slide has been removed, and that the rotating back is fully in either the landscape or portrait position - in the middle doesn't work.

I am unaware though of a 6x6 back for RB. RZ had one, but that is not compatible with RB.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

There is an eye-level metering prism for the RB67, apparently made from the armor of Russian T-54 tanks. Or you could use a small lightweight handheld meter like the Sekonic L-308.

I don't make transparencies, so I rely on my exposure experience and use only the waist level finder.

Yes, there are quite a few interlocks between back, dark slide, body, shutter, and lens that prevent the user from making common mistakes - so definitely get and read the manual. The RB system is modular and has plenty of accessories.

 

[foveon_m]

...you should look for the left handed trigger grip - it makes handhold use much more practical......
.

Cannot agree, maybe the grip is usefull using a prism finder, using a WLF it´s not.

PS: I was using Asahi Pentax spotmeters, often metering on a greycard,
with motorized back you get 6x8
projectors above 6x6 are rare and most of them are expensive, there are Mamiya Cabinets but I never found one.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

Cannot agree, maybe the grip is usefull using a prism finder, using a WLF it´s not.

PS: I was using Asahi Pentax spotmeters, often metering on a greycard,
with motorized back you get 6x8
projectors above 6x6 are rare and most of them are expensive, there are Mamiya Cabinets but I never found one.

I would say that multi angle grip can be adjusted to WLF use as well. In fact even with prism, standard left hand grip feels awkward to me, but multi angle gives holding options and I think it is well worth a little extra dough for that (and with patience it still can be had for well under $100 shipped). It is a very solid accessory from my perspective.

On top of that, with RB left hand grip has its place for either handed person due to focusing knobs on each side, but same style grip with ring focusing (like all Bronicas or Mamiya 645) for a RIGHT handed person makes little sense to me.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

I have metered chimney (which I like the view it gives but it is essentially a WLF approach) and same meter was put into a prism. There was a later more modern metered prism for RB (I think same was built for RZ) which might be an option for TTL metering. Otherwise any spot meter will do just fine (I use Minolta Spot exclusively).

What i really like is the magnifying chimney for critical focusing. That was a stroke of genius from Mamiya. Mamma Mia, why isn't it talked about?

 

[Dan Daniel]

I am excited but I still have to get a few items, most of all a decent light meter. I have been using the Yashica with out one. I have either been very good figuring out my exposure or very lucky. However I think it's time for a light meter.

A light meter is a tool, not a magic wand. And as with any tool, the secret is to use it properly. So go for a simple meter and learn to use it. There are a few out there. I have a Sekonic L-308 (a couple of different model letters, all about the same) which gives me incident, reflected, and flash metering. Learn to do incident metering, especially with slide film. There are good reasons incident is the standard in cinema metering.

A good read to get a handle on metering http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm You don't need to use his system, but I'd read over the beginning to learn more about what metering is really doing. Hint: it isn't that hard, and 128 point AI-infused nano-metering is good marketing, but at the critical point you've got just three things- film speed, shutter speed, and aperture, that's it.

 

[MattKing]

Cannot agree, maybe the grip is usefull using a prism finder, using a WLF it´s not.

Which just goes to show that ergonomics are both important and very personal.
I use the same trigger grip for both my Mamiya C330 and my RB67 - they were designed to work with both cameras - and the grip is perfect for me.
I've even had mine adapted - I can attach a flash bracket for my Metz 60 series flashes to the bottom of the grip. The RB67 + Metz 60 flash is an imposing combination!
To satisfy my curiosity I've tried the tried the Multi-angle grip, but it doesn't work any better for me than my fixed grip.

 

[narsuitus]

Anyone have any tips for this body?

Yes I will shoot regular color and black and white film too. Subjects? Anything and everything.

Congratulations on your new RB67 ProSD. I shoot with the two earlier versions.

One thing I had to do when I bought mine was to check the lens carefully for fungus.

If you were shooting slides with a Yashica and not using a light meter, you should have no trouble doing the same with your RB67.

I use a Gossen Super Pilot and a Gossen Luna-Pro light meter with my medium format cameras.

I also shoot anything and everything. The lenses I use in addition to the 90mm normal lens are:
50mm f/4.5 wide angle
140mm f/4.5 macro
150mm f/4 soft focus
180mm f/4.5
250mm f/4.5

Also, I have found having more than one film back very useful.



Mamiya RB67 Kit by Narsuitus, on Flickr

 

[narsuitus]

Before the RB67, I was shooting with 6x6cm Mamiya TLR cameras. It took me a while to get used to the louder operational noise, the non-returning mirror, the larger size, and greater weight of the RB67.

 

[narsuitus]

While you are waiting for your RB67 to arrive, in addition to reading the manual, I recommend watching some of the excellent RB67 videos on YouTube.

 

[Skeeterfx20]

I have a copy of the manual and have watched some videos.

However at this time I'm still not sure how to properly use a floating lens.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

I have a copy of the manual and have watched some videos.

However at this time I'm still not sure how to properly use a floating lens.

1. Focus
2. Move floating ring to corresponding distance
3. Refocus again (you may not see much difference, but usually it's there)

Mamiya is hard on need to use Floater regardless of distance to subject, so I use it all the time, but have hardly seen a difference in infinity type scenarios (landscape). Others will tell you it always makes a difference.

 

[John Koehrer]

The pistol grip centers the weight over the hand and will reduce the twist that you'll have with
any of the side grips..

Shameless plug:
I do have a pistol grip taking up space in a drawer I'd like to part with. It will also fit their TLR's
because the section that presses the release is adjustable.
There is one on the bay at the moment they're asking $20.00 +shipping. I can also live with that too.

 

[voceumana]

I think you will want to use this on a tripod nearly all the time--others say you can hand hold it, but I cannot. I found that on most of my tripod heads, the tripod's quick relese mounting plate interfered with the camera--I got the Mamiya QR quick release adapter, which resolves the issues. It'll depend upon your tripod system's plate.

 

[mshchem]

I took my RZ II out yesterday. I love these cameras but they are big, I have always used the left hand grip with my RZs. These are essentially a 8x8 square format camera with a rotating back. I love how they focus. Everything is well built. The last few years I have been using my Hasselblad stuff more, much smaller. But like your RB no damn battery to fool with. The lens you are getting is perfect, get a 180mm for portraits (super cheap in great condition ) . You should see about the soft focus 180, these are real softars, have metal diffusion disks. Without the disks the lens is razor sharp. For the RZ Mamiya had back stock that was liquidated, the soft focus lenses sold on Ebay new for 200 bucks. Same lens was made for the RB. I rarely fool with soft focus anything, but it's a nice lens.

 

[iakustov]

A question to RB/RZ users:
There is mirror-up cable release accessory (rather expensive) which should trigger the mirror up first then activates the shutter in the lens.
If you mount the simple cable release into the lens and press the shutter button on the camera, the mirror goes up and you can trigger the shutter via cable, but sometimes it wont do and both mirror and shutter are activated, regardless of the attached cable into the lens. Is is a sign of a problem within the lens?

 

[MattKing]

A question to RB/RZ users:
There is mirror-up cable release accessory (rather expensive) which should trigger the mirror up first then activates the shutter in the lens.
If you mount the simple cable release into the lens and press the shutter button on the camera, the mirror goes up and you can trigger the shutter via cable, but sometimes it wont do and both mirror and shutter are activated, regardless of the attached cable into the lens. Is is a sign of a problem within the lens?

It is a sign that the mirror-up "switch" on the lens isn't engaging properly when set.
Be sure you are setting it properly - it can be finicky - but assuming you are, the "switch" most likely needs to be cleaned, lubricated and adjusted.
There is one further thing to check - make sure that the cable release threads on that switch are undamaged.

 

[Skeeterfx20]

Well it came today. Very nice system and clean. Yes it is as big as they say it is. I have to take a few days to work with it. While it is big it weighs a lot less than I was expecting. I can probably get it tested out by next weekend. I only have some Portra 120 film. So i ordered some B&W and E6. I don't develop color so I should be able to get some B&W and E6 shot and processed by the weekend.

I have to settle on a meter, of course I could use one of my other cameras but I think a good off camera meter is the way to go.

 

[jim10219]

I think you will want to use this on a tripod nearly all the time--others say you can hand hold it, but I cannot. I found that on most of my tripod heads, the tripod's quick relese mounting plate interfered with the camera--I got the Mamiya QR quick release adapter, which resolves the issues. It'll depend upon your tripod system's plate.

If you get a short neck strap, you can support the weight of the camera with the strap and it's not too bad. Just set it so that it hangs right about where you'd focus it from when you lean over. That way you're never really lifting it up. It still would be tiring, but makes it possible to shoot handheld. You kind of need the WLF for this. The prisms not only add a bunch of weight, but also force you to raise the camera too high. And a padded strap is nice too.

To the OP, I recommend using a cell phone app for a light meter. They make a few, and many are free. My favorite is Pocket Light Meter for iOS. It's kind of like a wide degree spot meter. It's surprisingly accurate and really handy if you're like me and almost always have your phone with you anyway. At least consider something like that until you decide which light meter you want to buy. I have a few spot and incident meters as well as some hot shoe (or cold foot) reflective meters, and still use that metering app a good bit.

 

[Skeeterfx20]

Wow, I can't get over the size of the 6x7 negative. I shot my first roll last night, Ilford 100. I used a flash figuring I could figure it out. I nailed the exposure just using my knowledge of flash power and distance to set the aperture. I used a shutter speed of 60 for 5 shots and 125 for the second 5. I just finished developing the negatives.

I'm in very big trouble, this is going to be addictive.

I did order a light meter, going to try the Sekonic L-308X-U. I'm not even going to confess on the amount of film I bought.

 

[Ariston]

I'm glad you like it. Nothing gives me a better image than my RB, except maybe my 4x5. But the Mamiya lenses are unbeatable by anything I've ever seen. There may be some as good, but I haven't seen better. The prices make them all the sweeter.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Good luck with the RB67. Get a good tripod. I always use it and shoot mirror up for my landscapes. For film, I usually shoot slides Velvia 50. https://www.flickr.com/search/?sort...1&tags=velvia&user_id=55760757@N05&view_all=1

I also shoot BW once in a while Tmax 100. https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/albums/72157642492618713

I developed all my film in a pro lab.

The 90mm is equivalent to about 45mm in a 35mm camera. Standard lens type.

I use a Minolta IIIf flash meter. Mine has a 10% reflective as well as an incident reading in addition to calculating flash settings. If I was going to buy one now I'd get the Minolta IVf as it has a dedicated on-off switch. I also bracket my shots.