Strange. I'll have a look in a couple of days, but I'm sure there is no foam and certainly no clear glass there. I have an early C330 if that makes a difference, and pictures made with the 180mm lens are sharp, even wide open.
No. The foam is between the focusing screen assembly "top" (which has a clear glass on it) and the small metal subframe that holds the ground glass. Thus, it makes the ground glass exert pressure downwards agains the camera body, more precisely against the 3 posts that set the critical top-lens-to-ground-glass distance.
No. The foam is between the focusing screen assembly "top" (which has a clear glass on it) and the small metal subframe that holds the ground glass. Thus, it makes the ground glass exert pressure downwards agains the camera body, more precisely against the 3 posts that set the critical top-lens-to-ground-glass distance.
This rot happened to my C-33 but I didn't know the C-330's were susceptible to it.
Yes, that has a very different look from the C-33. Now I understand the difference and it does look a lot easier to do. Do you need to get dedicated material or have you found something that works?
You buy a rubber mouse pad and then cut small rubber pieces as needed with scissors or knife. Works pretty well.
This is getting very off topic now, but I guess KidA will benefit from this information when he buys his first Mamiya TLR (he SHOULD...)
Yes, he should. They are heavy, industrial-strength cameras, but reliable and very stable photo platforms. The lenses are wonderful performers and the interchangeability gives them a flexibility like no other tlr.
I'm bias towards Hasselblad, and therefore, suggest aHasselblad 501c with 80mmf/2.8 and then in time a 50mmf/4 and a 150mmf/4 for wide and portrait from Carl Zeiss.This makes for a vwery practical and flexible set, which can last you a lifetime.My reason is hat the 501c was still made relatively recently and they are available in decent shape 2nd hand.For the extra lenses, I suggest the CF versions for the samereason.Older C -series lenses are hardwer to service and often spare parts are hard to find.Hello everyone!
So, after about a year and half of shooting 35mm I'm now ready to include (not replace with) a medium format system. I would like to know what you all would suggest to me given my specific criteria.
I typically shoot many kinds of subjects but still life, landscape, street, even some macro, etc.
I'll give you my necessities and then my bonuses:
Needs:
-Somewhat compact/lightweight (around the size of Hasselblad 500/Mamiya 645 [definitely NOT a Mamiya RB 67!!] I'm often shooting in the road or riding my bike around.
-Interchangeable backs
-6x6 or 6x4.5
-great line-up of lenses (I look much more for 'character' of lens rather than how sharp it will be, but obviously still decently sharp)
-Serviceable within finicial reason!
Wants:
-Operational without batteries
-Metering system preferably without the need of added viewfinder as I will only want to carry one and I love waist level finders (spot would be really nice)
-6x6 and 6x4.5 comparability (I hate cropping, I like compose with whatever aspect ratio in given)
-Not crazy expensive (around $3-4k CAD for entire system with 3 primes and maybe teleconverter [wide, normal, telephoto])
-Lenses with the same filter thread size, I use filters extensively.
-all black would be nice.
-I don't care for automatic anything.
As for my research, it seems that the Rollei SL66 line-up is best suited to my needs with the exception of servicing and reliability issues. Hasselblad's 500 series look grea too, but I'm looking for more options. I'm really not the type to buy and trade and experiment. I want to make one decision and hopefully stick to it.
I know I'm asking for much, but who better to ask than the apug community?!
Thanks!
I cant think of any MF that is all mechanical with the meter built in the body.
Mamyia or Pentax 645 many lens.
Kowa Super 66 6X6 SLR has not been made since the 70s, but a very nice system.
Bronica 6X6 often called the poor man's Hasselblad
If you are willing to go more recent then a 645 rangefinder.
Then there is always the Mamyia 6.
To be honest with you, I really don't understand all the worry about battery failure on this forum. I used a Contax 139 35mm camera for years and never worried about it. I just carried an extra battery with me and I never had a problem. The same with my Pentax 645Nll, Mamiya RZ67 or my digital cameras.
I dislike all battery-dependent equipment but for the hand-held meter, I make an exception.My Gossen Luna-Star F-2 does all I need from ambient to flash and 9V block batteries are available almost anywhereIt's a ver reliable meter.For spot metering I got a Pentax,because it was simpler with the Zone System.Also,other brands andmodels of light meters are available for any size budget.I'm just partial to Gossenbecause, I'm German and my Dad always wanted one. In a way ,I fulfilled his dream for me;Coming to think of it,That's ho I ended up with the Hasselblad too;good thing,He never wanted a Lear Jet
Exactly ... AND the lenses are smaller and lighter (in the camera bag) than the lenses of many SLR medium format systems.
Liking German products is completely understandable. Germany has always been synonymous with quality.
Always? I'm not so sure, after having dissasembled for example a Thorens TD166 turntable. It looks quality from the outside, but not on the inside. On the inside is horrible stuff except for the main bearing.
Another "quality" example: Zeiss Ikon SL706. How the mighty have fallen. Or the singapore-built Rollei SL35E. Those are german products as well.
It seems that during the 70s the build quality of german consumer electronics went down the drain.
Ralph, I completely agree with you about the Pentax spot meters. They are so simple to use. I own two digital spot meters and the Spot Meter V analog. I also own a Minolta Flash Meter lV. It does ambient to flash like your Gossen. Liking German products is completely understandable. Germany has always been synonymous with quality. I'm not German but my wife is of German descent.
I've just never had a problem with batteries for cameras. I've always taken spares with me just in case. My Wehman 8x10 is of course battery free and so is my Stereo Realist 35mm but my Fujifilm X100s takes a rechargeable battery so I carry a spare for it. All I can say is if anyone hates batteries they better stay away from digital capture. Of course that's probably not hard for most APUG members
It is not the lens that vignettes. In fact, it really isn't vignetting, but rather a problem with the viewing system being unable to cover the entire field of view.
Your negatives or slides are great - nice, even coverage of the entire field of view. It is just that when you compose the shots you cannot see the entire field of view - one edge is darkened.
The later versions of the camera deal with the problem by incorporating a larger mirror.
EDIT: and of course, you only encounter the problem with the longer focal lengths
Definitely. I own two C330 cameras and about three or four focusing screens and ALL of them had that issue. Sometimes the foam goes away so much that you think there isn't supposed to be any foam there.
This pic illustrates well:
There is a gap between the "platform" that supports the focus screen and the base of the focusing screen. This gap is where the foam should be, so the "platform" has a "springy" effect when pushed. No gap = rotten foam. No "springy effect" = rotten foam.
It's just four tiny screws, there are no washers to loose. Not so difficult.
I did have a look at my mamiya and there is indeed foam between the frame and the subframe hodlding the focusing screen in place. When the foam rottens nothing happens as the correct distance between the two frames is maintained by the four screws seen in the picture provided by flavio..
If this service is not done to your Mamiya, it will not be able to fully realize the potential of the MAMIYA-SEKOR lenses, some of which (like the 180/4.5) are just superb, and a focal length Rolleiflex owners can't enjoy.
This is not correct.
It is correct, gravity alone is enough to keep the right distance between the two frames, foam in between is of course better. The three poles undernath are just stopping the inner (smaller) frame at the correct distance when in contact.
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