First lens for RZ 67?

[EricO]

I'm currently building a RZ 67 system. Which lens would you recommend starting with for portrait photography? Without going broke, that is.

 

[keithwms]

110/2.8 for full length. For tighter, you'd want something longer e.g a 150.

Also, double check this before buying, but I think that the rb67 lenses fit the rz, and they are an absolute steal right now (look at robertwhite). If you don't mind losing the lens-to-body communication when AE metering, then this would be an economical way to get some great lenses.

 

[Nick Zentena]

I forget which one I got first. Want to say 180mm but that was just because I found a good price on it. The longer lenses and the 110mm normal all seem fairly reasonable. I'm guessing more of these cameras got sold for studio work then for lugging outside in the wilderness. So lots of portrait lenses for sale.

The RB lenses will fit with various notes. You can't focus to as close. You lose all the advantage of the RZ electronics.

 

[Drew B.]

I like the 127mm...but thats the longest one I have. I'm a wide angle type of guy.

 

[Paul Sorensen]

I mostly find myself using 180mm for individual portraits with my RB, but I often end up with the 90mm, if I am shooting more than one or if space is limited. KEH has the RB 180, which as folks have said will work with the RZ, for $105 in bargain condition.

Actually, I just looked and they have a 180mm W-N for $129 bargain for the RZ. No idea what the different lens lines are for RZ, or why the W-N would be cheaper than the others, but it is.

 

[catem]

If you're just going to get one lens for a while I would go for the 110/2.8.

It's a very nice, fast portrait lens, has that edge over the the standard 90mm on the RB, (and also allows you to focus closer than that lens). Also can easily be hand-held (important to me), useful if you're working more spontaneously rather than set up in the studio. It is not only for full-length portraits - (though for head & shoulders you are at that distance quite close to your subject which wouldn't suit every occasion).

You can also use it for still lifes and even landscapes (if you're not devoted to wide angle).

 

[Drew B.]

Cate..how or why would you want to use the RB/RZ handheld? If you run around doing environmental portraits, man the arm holding the system has to get tired pretty quick!

 

[catem]

Hi Drew,

I wouldn't say I do so many 'environmental portraits' with it (there's one in my portfolio though of child looking out of window/door). But even so I hate having the camera stuck on a tripod for people - I like to be able to move & react.

I also wander about the countryside with it - no problem at all! Lighter than Large Format.

The only time I have it on the tripod is for still life work, or for 'planned' landscapes/docu shots. I can't be bothered with carrying a tripod around on unplanned trips, (i.e. where I haven't got an idea of what I want to take) but maybe I would if I was a 'real' landscape photographer. (I also use 35mm for getting ideas).

But... it's an RZ, not an RB, and that does make a difference - a bit lighter, faster, and the mirror up/film rewind is one movement (two on the RB).

The fact that the 110 lens is relatively fast, plus the fact that the camera is relatively heavy, therefore more stable, makes it very easy to use hand-held/ with available light.

Lots of people say that "don't your arms get tired" - well, no, they don't. A good neck strap balances it very well - of course I don't use a prism! So I'm not lifting it up to my eye at all, which is the part that would be tiring - much easier to hold and balance something at waist level or a bit higher.

 

[Drew B.]

Understood....