There's a good description of this left knob from a posting years ago on Photrio. Sinar Calculator
It's an interesting concept, and could be used on any camera quite easily. I have to give credit to Sinar for some ingenuity here. Just draw any two horizontal lines on the ground glass, one below the center axis, and the other above. Focus on the one of these lines and note the focus scale position. Next, focus on the other line, and note the focus scale position of that one. The difference between the two positions is the focus travel between the two points (fore/aft). The up/down dimension is the distance between the two lines. The fore/aft and up/down dimensions form the legs of a right angled triangle, and the angle of the resulting hypotenuse is the tilt angle. It's just a simple math calculation.
Since the upper and lower lines on the Sinar ground glass are already fixed and known, the only variable is the fore/aft focus difference. The left side knob rotates with the fore/aft focus, so it's marked with the corresponding tilt required. Very smart and cheap. This is something you could jury rig on just about any camera.
I have a Sinar F1, and it doesn't have this left knob, so I wasn't sure if the f2 was somehow different. All the Sinar f models have standard base tilts, so they're no different from the Sinar Norma in that respect. The Sinar P series is a completely different animal. You don't need a calculator to figure out the tilt angle since it's asymetric within the film area.
Wish there was some way you could get a digital back that mimicked film to practice on, something low res but just so I could make sure all of my exposures were correct
Also, having trouble figuring out exactly what these knobs do. Bottom moves when I adjust my focus, is that supposed to help me find my focus again quickly when I lose it? Set it to 0 when I’m in focus and come back to it when I need to?
Top doesn’t seem to do anything. Can loosen it but nothing moves
The unmarked one may just be a lockdown -- when loose, something can move in response to another control (focus?), and when tightened, that control is locked.
...X-ray film is another option, but it's only cheaper than Fomapan if you recut it yourself from the larger sizes it's sold in (this can be done under red safelight, BTW)....
Doesn't diffraction depend on the size of the print as well?
Going back to use of the adjustable Sinar dial ... Well, I scrubbed off the necessary dotted lines from my Sinar GG anyway. Found them distracting.
I suspect you may be suffering from a later life reemergence of your childhood trigonosis disease, Drew. It's cosed by a nasty parasite found in untaned bellows leather, and the outward sines are a severe blather infection. The good news is that it can be treated with the right formula, but as with any treatment, there is always a small calculated risk. Good Luck!
Funny...photography is the only area in which I have found (on many occasions) the practical applicability of the understanding of trigonometry, and consulting of the trig tables...Drew Wiley said:But I don't play billiards, so what use is trig geometry anyway?
So does X-ray film have a special affect? I know it's supposed to be high ISO but is there anything else special about it that would come up in regular shooting?
I may only use this rarely in that case. I'd mostly be wanting something that's not as reactive to blue. I want to have my skies darker and this seems like it'd give the opposite effect.... and certain does not react much to red out in the field!...
I may only use this rarely in that case. I'd mostly be wanting something that's not as reactive to blue. I want to have my skies darker and this seems like it'd give the opposite effect.
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