Alan...... just for the sake of clarity, a close-up outside.....is not a landscape photo it is a close-up. Yes a 150 is a good lens for close-ups of that type of photo. Working distance to the subject is important. If you think of it in 35mm terms...the most common focusing 'macro lenses' are similar to 'normal lenses'.... 50,55mm. Yes there were short tele versions 100/105mm. but most common are the normal length. In LF a 150 will be easy to work with & give you good results.
BTW "foreshortening"
With a bellows extension of 300mm and a 150mm lens you can photograph subjects with a magnification of M=1 (life size).
A good way to think of it when you choose composition is: would this flower (or any subject) fit directly on a sheet of 4x5 film.
Your 350mm bellows will give you a magnification of at most M=1.33 with a 150mm lens.
Thanks, I'll try it out see what it looks like using a couple of my lenses.In that case, you should put that on the camera, put the camera 1200 mm (~ 4 feet) from a subject and focus.
Now take a look at what is in the frame - what the size of the frame is, from edge to edge, corner to corner. Say it is 20"x16", or whatever.
If you photograph anything smaller than that size (20"x16" or whatever) that fills the negative, you know that you will need to adjust the exposure.
The most important thing is to become visually familiar with that size of subject frame.
Thanks, I'll try it out see what it looks like using a couple of my lenses.
It will be exactly the same size subject frame, no matter the lens. The only thing that will change with the lens is the subject to camera distance, and therefore the perspective.
Shooting with 4x5Alan Edward Klein said:But the wider angle lens should give me more magnification because I have more bellow's draw. Right?
But my closer shots are going to be landscape shooting? not portraits but let's say flowers or something outdoors. So I'm thinking that the 150 mm would be a good choice for me since I don't have a 210. And the 300 is too long because my bellows will only extend to 350 mm.
Bellows draw limitations will have zero applicability at those shooting distances!...that only matters at 'macro' magnifications, and I fail to see how 'macro' comes into play for any definition of 'landscape close up'...6.4' tall area captured within a 4" tall frame is only about 1/20 of actual size!
It comes into play for *all* scenes at and around a magnification of 1:1.
Please tell us how you would fill the 4x5 negative with a 5" tall flower using Alans 300mm lens and 350mm bellows, since bellows draw is no limitation to you.
Do y'all know of a good system for storing undeveloped exposed film? (Is it even considered a negative if you haven't developed it yet?). So far I have one double film holder and I plan on taking more than two images. Unfortunately I won't be able to get the images developed until probably sometime in January. Any recommendations on how I should store them until I can get them developed?
First of all, buy more film holders. After that, you might think of a little film changing tent or changing bag. The exposed film is put inside a regular 3-part film box, properly labeled so that you don't confuse it with fresh film.
I'd get a small tape measure for bellows calculations, a notebook (and a small calculator if you don't use your phone).
As I was telling xkaes, I'm planning on doing landscape photography. Been a big fan of Ansel Adams' work since I started, so I do plan on learning the zone system. I'll skip the loupe for now, if I find I need anything I guess I'll get a magnifying glass and see how that works.
And then there's this, for getting the bellows draw compensation without calculating anything: http://www.salzgeber.at/disc/
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