Hard to tell on a computer, but it looks like you could try reducing magenta considerably, say by up to 40.
I agree I can see no difference either. Based on this the only conclusion I can draw is that your dichroic head filters are not working i.e. the dials are not operating the filters. An easy way to check. Shine the enlarger lamp through an empty neg carrier with everything at 0 then dial in yellow only and see if there is a change in colour on the easel and does it get stronger. Return the Y to 0 and do the same with M and then CDid you look at first image for comparison? The colours look the same and Magenta reduced from 50 to 0 (as well as Yellow from 70 to 0) as per notes above. Seems not to have had an effect.
EDIT: I've edited the original post to properly show both now.
I agree I can see no difference either. Based on this the only conclusion I can draw is that your dichroic head filters are not working i.e. the dials are not operating the filters. An easy way to check. Shine the enlarger lamp through an empty neg carrier with everything at 0 then dial in yellow only and see if there is a change in colour on the easel and does it get stronger. Return the Y to 0 and do the same with M and then C
I think it safe to say that the colour filters are not working or as good as not working. This may or may not be something that you can fix.
Yes I wasn't really sure why finding the white light lever was important but as you used the word progress I think you mean that the filters were not working becuase the white light lever was still swing in its position where all the filters are out of the way. Doesn't really explain why up to 5 worked in M and C though or maybe you only thought that some C and M were showing. The white light lever should remove all filtration I'd have thought@pentaxuser - see my previous post, I've made some progress
Yes I wasn't really sure why finding the white light lever was important
pentaxuser
Start of with a a filter pack of 50Y+50M with a test strip. Don't increase the time to increase the test for density. Use the f stop on your enlarger lens. RA4 has characteristics when you increase the time, the color will shift.
Doesn't really explain why up to 5 worked in M and C though or maybe you only thought that some C and M were showing
Greg Davies' videos on RA4 printing are worth a look as well
It isn't that videos are a resource.Thanks Matt. So in this case a video is classified as a resource. Makes sense
pentaxuser
Is there a Brief/Humorous back-story as to how you chose your pseudonym.?You can also search my channel direct on YouTube under “Naked Photographer”
I wanted my channel to be more comprehensive than most others I see, which seem to focus more on just digital or just walking around with a camera, etc.. I also wanted a name that was memorable. While sharing a few drinks with another photo professor I came up with Naked Photographer. You don’t easily forget it and it carried the notion that I’m not hiding anything I know about the subject.
He presented a series of videos on darkroom work here on Photrio The RA4 printing was in 3 parts. Most of of it may be redundant for you as you already have the set-up but the part where he describes colour cast correction might be relevant
Click on the "Resources" tab at the top of the screen. The most recent Resources will show first, and Greg's links are right there.
Don't get discouraged. Once you get everything in order, as long as you use the same film and paper, filtration doesn't change much. Once you get it RA4 is faster than an inkjet.
You can also search my channel direct on YouTube under “Naked Photographer”
I wanted my channel to be more comprehensive than most others I see,
Mike just as a matter of interest what was the filtration that got you the right picture.
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